Dana 30 Build: Sleeve, Truss etc.... for 35's

[XJLI]

Just curious as to how to picture this, a double Y radius is like the serious offroad long arm and the single Y radius is like the IRO long arm right?

yes. though, i'd argue the negative affects of the radius arm geometry are still there.

 

[nosigma]

yes. though, i'd argue the negative affects of the radius arm geometry are still there.

I have to agree with you. I spent way to much time messing with F/A geometry, drawing out suspenion links and making cardboard models as well as adjusting virtual centers at the track to to belive anything different. I think this is why I was so shocked at how well behave the two single Y link buggies were and the XJ I rode in.

My assumption is for now that by raising the pivot point as high as possible and as far back as possible (above the bottom of the frame rails and under the T Case) when combined with the lower traction we have here in the east simply does not creat the forces (traction) or give them the large reaction arm (moving pivot up and back) that you get with the typical Y link that is mounted under the frame rail and forward of the transfer case.

If I was totally sold I wouldnt be going through the extra effort to make sure I could add the tower for a 3rd link later.

John

 

[rockclimber]

radius arms *can* be setup to work rather well and a lot of the stigma associated with them is BS that is perpetuated by people who are misinformed.

the whole idea of "radius arm unloading" came from the TJ guys and it has almost nothing to do with the actual radius arms and much more so with the horrible rear geometry that most of those "kits" came with.

the idea spilled over into XJs because people see a radius arm front unload and they say "it must be the front suspension" when in reality there is almost nothing a front suspension can do to prevent unloading once all the weight is transferred to the rear on a steep climb. wheelbase, rear spring rate and geometry will have a much more profound effect than the front in those situations.

the binding issue really isn't as big of a deal as people make it out to either. think about how flimsy the standard passenger UCA mount is. if the radius arms bound that much, that mount would simply tear off.

pinion dive is something you will never really get away from, but it isn't a problem for every rig.

granted most radius arms in kit form are terrible and are built the way they are for packaging purposes in order to retain that "bolt on" feature. I still prefer a good 3-link as they are stronger and easier to setup "properly" amongst other things

 

[MoparManiac]

radius arms *can* be setup to work rather well and a lot of the stigma associated with them is BS that is perpetuated by people who are misinformed.

the whole idea of "radius arm unloading" came from the TJ guys and it has almost nothing to do with the actual radius arms and much more so with the horrible rear geometry that most of those "kits" came with.

the idea spilled over into XJs because people see a radius arm front unload and they say "it must be the front suspension" when in reality there is almost nothing a front suspension can do to prevent unloading once all the weight is transferred to the rear on a steep climb. wheelbase, rear spring rate and geometry will have a much more profound effect than the front in those situations.

the binding issue really isn't as big of a deal as people make it out to either. think about how flimsy the standard passenger UCA mount is. if the radius arms bound that much, that mount would simply tear off.

pinion dive is something you will never really get away from, but it isn't a problem for every rig.

granted most radius arms in kit form are terrible and are built the way they are for packaging purposes in order to retain that "bolt on" feature. I still prefer a good 3-link as they are stronger and easier to setup "properly" amongst other things

Binding issue, while not a big deal, was definitely a real thing. Plenty of threads about ripping that pass UCA mount off the axle. Simple solution though, just weld on a better mount.

Radius arms induce pinion dive on uptravel. The pinion actually rolls up during droop, however you lose caster which is the worst part of it.

Radius arms are far easier to setup "properly" and the strength between the two is moot.

 

[garrett83]

Your cross memeber came out clean. I do see a potential problem with clearance of the driveshaft and link mount with it that far inboard.

I had some issues with mine rubbing, at fool droop. I had to adjust my track bar to make it clear for now, but will have to build a longer track bar in the very near future.

I also chose to do a single Y link. I will know how well it works after I take it out for the first time this weekend.

 

[cal]

You shouldn't let your fool's droop.. its unbecoming.

 

[garrett83]

You shouldn't let your fool's droop.. its unbecoming.

 

[nosigma]

Fool droop. sounds like an old english problem from great expectations. they use to make harnesses and spittle cups to remedy fools droop.

fools droop is also a female frontal problem that cracker gets excited over.

john

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

have you figured out what youre going to do about shifting the t-case? I have the boostwerks kit and with how high i raised my t-case, the angles are poor and it no longer has enough throw to access 2wd and 4lo. Curious if youve come to that yet

 

[rockclimber]

Novak.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

i bought the cable setup but the body side bracket will interfere with the driveshaft

 

[WiscoXJ]

so much good info here!

 

[nosigma]

have you figured out what youre going to do about shifting the t-case? I have the boostwerks kit and with how high i raised my t-case, the angles are poor and it no longer has enough throw to access 2wd and 4lo. Curious if youve come to that yet

With all the clocking I did the NP241 shifter arms lined up perfectly with the stock shifter. ALTHOUGH I now am running s single rod direct from the shifter to the transfer case. Now 4WD low is all the way FORWARD and 2WD high is all the way back. The shift pattern is reversed since I was able to get rid of the lever arm contraption and links the the stock system used.

John

 

[nosigma]

Its almost done. Here are some pictures. The exhaust is in and it sounds nice, very quiet though I suspect after the cat and glass pack break in it will get louder. Nothing hangs below the frame rails. The QA1 rock joints are well protected. All the suspension links have 1/4" alloy steel weld washer on the bolt holes that were honed to a slip fit. All the bolts were sized so that only shank rests on the tabs. You will notice that the exhaust wraps around the FRONT of the oil pan before running down the pax side. This little mod allows the entire front skid (the last item to be built) to be above the frame rails. I had to French some tubing into the forward frame rails to allow the long arms to next up inside the frame rails at full stuff. The rear fenders were tubbed following the BS FAB recipe (site is gone sadly). I can easily handle a 16" travel shock on the front and after raising the rear shock mounts I will be able to do so on the rear. The 35" stuff as far up into the front wheel wells as my 31's did with the offset and fender trimming. More pics later.

John

 

[nosigma]

 

[cal]

lookin good.

 

[cal]

(now bring it out west and lets go wheel)

 

[nosigma]

(now bring it out west and lets go wheel)

I would but I am scared. Its a single Y link radius arm build. First high traction climb I do its gonna unload, flip over backwards and kill me.

John

 

[cal]

Go up the hills backward.

 

[nosigma]

Go up the hills backward.

Thats a great idea. Jackback was fun in Farmer Matts rig, I had no idea we did it wrong. Now that I know its safer to run Jack Hammer in reverse I will start making plans.

John