hubs97xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
It's Dynomax, not Magnaflow. The tip is stainless steel, not chrome. It will rust and fall off regardless, but I like details.
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Complete Exhaust System
- Thread starter BotakBeng
- Start date
It's Dynomax, not Magnaflow. The tip is stainless steel, not chrome. It will rust and fall off regardless, but I like details.
What did you ended up with?
Did you got the downpipe replaced?
It's pairly rusted but still usable but bc of my "minor ocd", i rather replace the whole system :clap:.
:huh:
How did i missed your post....nice details, thx.
Care to share which system you have?
Thx.
Here is the tread
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1059312
I ended up going with the Dynomax 17463, which is spec'd for a 87-92 XJ. This means it is 2.5" from the cat back, while the 17340 (93+) reduces to 2.25". The 17463 was about $35 cheaper than the 17340, and with the Hobart, I could fix any hangers in improper locations. Turns out the only difference between the two, were in terms of routing from about the fuel-tank/leafspring back. The 17463 has a z-bend which drops the center line of the exhaust about 2.5" just before the tip, while the 17340 kinks outboard at the same spot and a turndown. You can see that difference illustrated here, as the 17340 would mimic the factory routing fairly well.
That is where my homemade turn-down will come in, as the z-bend places the exhaust tip pretty far below the rear bumper.
... and I think it looks pretty lame in general. The turn down was made by cutting up a 2.5" mandrel 90* that I had left over/hacked from another project on a horizontal cut band-saw at work. I didn't have the extension I needed, hence the straight section welded on. The lower tab of the rear exhaust hanger is also getting a bit thin from rust, and I am thinking about grinding it off the rubberized loop insulator and just attaching the exhaust directly to that. The other option is to properly weld in some bar hanger stock, and use a standard rubber insulator.
As for the cat forward, I don't have any experience on this vehicle, and sorry about the tangent filled, alcohol induced, partially on topic, posts.
hubs97xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
^ :laugh:
Clearance on the Maremont downpipe. Note the craptastic crush bends. I would have paid the shop (which normally charges too much) to remove the kink in the stock pipe, and reuse it.
Tailpipe exits too low, IMO, on the more expensive kit as well. It can also interfere with longer shackles. A little tweaking can cure that, but again, I don't see the point in adding an offset that creates clearance issues in the first place. Straight out the back (and about 2" higher) would have been fine.
The two factory hanger setups. The fancier Dynomax kit uses a clamp with a rod welded to it to mimic the latter hanger. It broke while removing the hanger when we were working on the springs. Didn't like either factory hanger for this particular job, so I combined two off-the-shelf hangers to raise the pipe a little bit.
Note the rust along the weld. That finally gave out last week, so the fancy tip now lives on my bench. I'm guessing this thing will have completely rusted apart within the next two years. Hindsight, again... might not be an issue for you out west.
I will probably do things differently next time, but for the money, it wasn't a bad setup, IMO. If money were no object, I'd have a complete stainless setup from manifold to tailpipe, but that's not the case for me.
edit- BIG PITCHERS!! sorry, need to resize them.
Clearance on the Maremont downpipe. Note the craptastic crush bends. I would have paid the shop (which normally charges too much) to remove the kink in the stock pipe, and reuse it.
Tailpipe exits too low, IMO, on the more expensive kit as well. It can also interfere with longer shackles. A little tweaking can cure that, but again, I don't see the point in adding an offset that creates clearance issues in the first place. Straight out the back (and about 2" higher) would have been fine.
The two factory hanger setups. The fancier Dynomax kit uses a clamp with a rod welded to it to mimic the latter hanger. It broke while removing the hanger when we were working on the springs. Didn't like either factory hanger for this particular job, so I combined two off-the-shelf hangers to raise the pipe a little bit.
Note the rust along the weld. That finally gave out last week, so the fancy tip now lives on my bench. I'm guessing this thing will have completely rusted apart within the next two years. Hindsight, again... might not be an issue for you out west.
I will probably do things differently next time, but for the money, it wasn't a bad setup, IMO. If money were no object, I'd have a complete stainless setup from manifold to tailpipe, but that's not the case for me.
edit- BIG PITCHERS!! sorry, need to resize them.
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Just had mine installed today. Have a short vid over on FB.
http://www.facebook.com/A2theJackson#!/photo.php?v=10100405371439307&set=vb.12612911&type=2&theater
Quality is not great from my phone but you can get an idea. Used the stock 2000 downpipe and cut it just before the stock cat. everything back is brand new. Set me back $250 for the labor/misc parts and I had the muffler/cat already.
http://www.facebook.com/A2theJackson#!/photo.php?v=10100405371439307&set=vb.12612911&type=2&theater
Quality is not great from my phone but you can get an idea. Used the stock 2000 downpipe and cut it just before the stock cat. everything back is brand new. Set me back $250 for the labor/misc parts and I had the muffler/cat already.
Link not working.
:read:http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1059312
Thx for the pics hubs97xj....always love pics :worship:.
Problem is i don't have any fabrication tools...not even a freaking vise
.
Thx for the pics hubs97xj....always love pics :worship:.
Problem is i don't have any fabrication tools...not even a freaking vise
.As long as the bolt together bits you are using upstream place the muffler at a near stock position, it will be a bolt in process. I am only bringing in my welder to correct the hideous exhaust tip with a turn down I made. Then again, if I could get the exhaust tucked higher in the chassis, the tip may be closer to the bumper, and therefor a bit more acceptable. Ideally the exit of the turn down ill be flush, or just above, the bottom of the hitch as to not effect departure on the low ass rig. From what I saw in my research for new exhaust, was none of the aftermarket kits did exactly what I wanted, and the cheapest solution at the time just happened to bring me the closest.
I just went out and snapped some pics of the rear hanger on my '99.
You can see the factory hanger is a rubber/nylon isolator bolted to the body and to a flange that hangs the exhaust down. I had the idea of grinding off the rivets and attaching the exhaust directly to that isolator, but I fear the heat will cause issues with it. The next thought was to remove the rear hanger all together and bend the drop tab flatter, to bring the exhaust up into the chassis. There is a noticeable decline in the plumbing from the axle to tip, so it could honestly use a boost to be parallel to the chassis. If the bending of the factory hanger doesn't work, I may end up doing as Hubs did with the aftermarket unit.
when it comes to piecing together an exhaust, especially using bits from different companies, you are going to need to deal with some fitment issues, and "custom work" (read time with hammer) No real fabrication tools will be needed if you acquire bits that were designed to fill the holes left by factory parts... meaning flanges, lengths, hangers, etc are all in factory locations.
Does your entire exhaust system need replacement, or are you just thinking of doing it all while you are in there?
I just went out and snapped some pics of the rear hanger on my '99.
You can see the factory hanger is a rubber/nylon isolator bolted to the body and to a flange that hangs the exhaust down. I had the idea of grinding off the rivets and attaching the exhaust directly to that isolator, but I fear the heat will cause issues with it. The next thought was to remove the rear hanger all together and bend the drop tab flatter, to bring the exhaust up into the chassis. There is a noticeable decline in the plumbing from the axle to tip, so it could honestly use a boost to be parallel to the chassis. If the bending of the factory hanger doesn't work, I may end up doing as Hubs did with the aftermarket unit.
when it comes to piecing together an exhaust, especially using bits from different companies, you are going to need to deal with some fitment issues, and "custom work" (read time with hammer) No real fabrication tools will be needed if you acquire bits that were designed to fill the holes left by factory parts... meaning flanges, lengths, hangers, etc are all in factory locations.
Does your entire exhaust system need replacement, or are you just thinking of doing it all while you are in there?
I'll adjust the security settings for FB. And upload a real video when I'm off tonight for you.
Try this link:
http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=10100405371439307
Or just friend request me and look at it. :loveu:
http://www.facebook.com/#!/A2theJackson
Try this link:
http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=10100405371439307
Or just friend request me and look at it. :loveu:
http://www.facebook.com/#!/A2theJackson
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I ended up just getting a parts house replacement for right now. It's better than stock but not what I wanted. It has those crappy kinked bends. When I get more time, I'll do some more research and find a better one, but It'll have do for now. I'd still like to find a shop that has a mandrel bender.
Monster Mopar
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Moses Lake, WA
It doesn't seem like anybodys addressed your which header question.... Personally I would go with the APN header. The primary tubes are more equal length and should produce a better power curve. Whether you'd be able to tell the difference, idk.
I was reading some tech articles on exhaust with kink bends and they say for a stock to slightly modified motor they say it really doesn't hurt performance any. This is mainly because the kinks are only present where the exhaust tubing bends. The kinks are formed on the inside of the bend and the primary exhaust forces are on the outside of the bend due to the inertia from the turn in the exhaust.
Now If I had two choices, kink bends vs madrel, Id pick the mandrel. However, if my kink bend pipes were in good shape I'd just leave them untill then needed to be replace..... and that my 2 cents :gag: :spin1:
I was reading some tech articles on exhaust with kink bends and they say for a stock to slightly modified motor they say it really doesn't hurt performance any. This is mainly because the kinks are only present where the exhaust tubing bends. The kinks are formed on the inside of the bend and the primary exhaust forces are on the outside of the bend due to the inertia from the turn in the exhaust.
Now If I had two choices, kink bends vs madrel, Id pick the mandrel. However, if my kink bend pipes were in good shape I'd just leave them untill then needed to be replace..... and that my 2 cents :gag: :spin1:
DanMan2k06
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Damascus, MD
If you're going to take the time/effort/$$ to get an etirely new exhaust system, INVEST IN SOME VBAND CLAMPS. Piece the exhaust together as you usually would, weld it, then just cut into sections and weld in your flanges. Makes removing your exhaust CAKE when you need to.
:rtm:
Problem is i don't have any fabrication tools...not even a freaking vise
I love v-bands, but I just can't see the feasibility when someone wants a system without welds and/or on a budget.
That was helpful :listenmus
Probably going with APN.
hubs97xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
I have the APN. I like it, although I cracked mine. Make sure your motor mounts are good, or better yet, replace them with Ironman4x4, Brown Dog, MORE bombproof, etc.
Ya know, I haven't seen this mentioned/asked yet. Are you replacing a cracked manifold, or just looking for some more power/better sound? If any of this is daunting, and your manifold isn't cracked, I'd do a bolt-on catback, and tackle the header/downpipe swap later. If you're a little more careful than I was, you can attack the exhaust in stages without it costing much more.
Ya know, I haven't seen this mentioned/asked yet. Are you replacing a cracked manifold, or just looking for some more power/better sound? If any of this is daunting, and your manifold isn't cracked, I'd do a bolt-on catback, and tackle the header/downpipe swap later. If you're a little more careful than I was, you can attack the exhaust in stages without it costing much more.
