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Cleaning the Rockers

90Blue_XJ said:
Back to the intent of this thread. I am so old school that I'm pre-school. My dad and I rebuilt an old Chevy 6 cylinder when I was a kid. Back about 1958-59 on what turned out to be my DD in HS. To clean it out before we got started he put a couple quarts of deisel fuel in and finished filling it with oil. Ran it for about ten minutes then drained it. Did that twice before we pulled the valve cover, changeing the filter too each time. When we pulled the valve cover it looked as clean as a new engine inside.
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i learned this trick from my father as well. deisel fuel cleaned the engine like it was spankin new. i dont know about how the fuel affects the bearings and rings and things. if you want it clean i'd try the deisel.
damn did i spell deisel wrong? i feel dumb now.
 
tsill said:
i learned this trick from my father as well. deisel fuel cleaned the engine like it was spankin new. i dont know about how the fuel affects the bearings and rings and things. if you want it clean i'd try the deisel.
damn did i spell deisel wrong? i feel dumb now.
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i believe its actually spelled "diesel"
 
poorboy_616 said:
Dude, that has got to be the worst amount of sludge I have seen in a long time....
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Worst I have ever seen was a 66 volvo that was fed a steady diet of Quacker state back when it was parafin based. At 150,000mi you could not even see the valve train and the sludge looked like a casting of the inside of the valve cover. Sure was quiet though :D :D :D
Did the initial cleaning with a table spoon.
 
LOLZ........... this is retarded. Toss the cover back on. Dump in some tranyfluid, run it up and dump it out. The time involved in cleaing just under the valve cover is worthless. Look down into the galleys where the pushrods go..... there is way more down in there. Think of whats in the pan in the screen. Personally I would just pull the damn thing, get it rebuilt and toss it back in the rig (3 day turn around) then again I have money to do things like that. So back to option one and dont waste your time with a tooth brush cleaning parts that will look like that again in a week.
 
Well i sat on top of my engine for about 2 hours with a small wire brush, a putty knife, and a flat tip. Spraying carb cleaner and using the shopvac to suck it up. Got the top pretty clean. I will be putting the valve cover back on tomorrow and i will flush with diesel and stuff i got three oil filters and a gallon of cheap oil and a gallon of rotella. Will flush once initially with diesel then fun for a week and change again. IF my oil pressure doesnt get higher than 20 i will pull the pan and commence to cleaning the bottom.

Thanks for all the input
 
I forgot to mention that I worked for Detroit Diesel....

I was in the 8.2L "fuel Pincher" rebuild plant in Vancouver, Wa (since has moved to ridgefield)....

We got in a series of engines from across the pond in Iraq.....What a freakin mess...Sludge plus sand. We couldn't do anything but toss those to the smelter....
 
"then again I have money to do things like that"
Live it up, cause you won't be getting paid to boink your whole life.
:rolleyes:
 
XJ Stryker said:
Well i sat on top of my engine for about 2 hours with a small wire brush, a putty knife, and a flat tip. Spraying carb cleaner and using the shopvac to suck it up. Got the top pretty clean. I will be putting the valve cover back on tomorrow and i will flush with diesel and stuff i got three oil filters and a gallon of cheap oil and a gallon of rotella. Will flush once initially with diesel then fun for a week and change again. IF my oil pressure doesnt get higher than 20 i will pull the pan and commence to cleaning the bottom.

Thanks for all the input
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my 89 looked just like yours when i opened it up. so i figured it was time to be cleaned and and all new gaskets and seals. i did the rms, oil pan and valve cover with fel pro reinforced molded rubber gaskets, oil adapter o-rings, and distributor o-ring. i also ran all new CCV lines and grommets.

i manually cleaned the inside of the valve cover and baffles along with the top end. the oil pan also had about 3/8" of sludge at the bottom.

after doing that i ran it for awhile with just regular dino oil and rplaced the filter every 1250miles and oil changes every 2500 miles. after 6 months i put some seafoam in the crankcase and let idle for about 10 minutes and went for a short drive without getting the rpms up too high. drained the oil and seafoam and did another 6 months of new filters every 1250miles and oil changes 2500miles. i also added some MMO at every oil change.

now im running 4 qts rotella syn 5-40 mixed with some rotella 15-40. i would be using all syn 5-40 but i got the last gallon of syn left in the store.

after about a 1000 miles since the last oil change and filter using rotella, the oil on the dip stick is golden light brown color. before all of this, the oil was always dark, dark black.

if you want to really clean your oil/engine, you really need to take the oil pan off and clean it real well. i wouldnt try any harsh engine cleaners and expect it to take some time before the oil/engine is cleaned up.
 
OK I know Iam going to be told that Iam an idit.But have done this over 2 dozen times with no ploblems .take off the oil pan and valve cover,oil filter .and take a power washer to it .Clean every thing you can get too even around the crank and rods Blow it out with an air hose and spray with wd40 or fule oil( DONT LET IT SET FOR A WEEK AFTERWARDS)then think about blowing it out and spraying it with oil.I have done this on Fords, Chevys Dodges and many others.I have never had a ploblem yet from one being cleaned this way.And replace rear main seal while you are there with the pan off.
 
Get some Gunk Engine Flush, follow the directions then, subsitute one quart of Rislone for a quart of oil and do that for the next few oil changes.......it'll clean itself up. And I've used the ATF trick for years (I'm an old dude).....it works good to loosen up sticky lifters.....no harm to the motor-----------Hans
 
Yeah am still working it. But i think i am having TPS problems now which is hendering progress. ANd ofcourse my Power Problems thread that no one has replied too.

Here is my valve cover and and put it on the engine. Have done One flush with some GUnk i already had here in the shop the second flush will be with diesel

I may do a third with kerosene or tranny fluid. maybe seafoam but that shit is 7 bucks a can. Oil pressure is still at 20 psi even after first flush. I need to figure out this TPS shit then i will start with the flush again.

DSC03108.jpg


didnt get pic of rocker was too excited to see what my freshly painted valve cover would look like on the truck

DSC03110.jpg


:patriot:
 
XJ Stryker said:
yeah but everytime i fix one thing something else breaks

RENIX ugh
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im another that says tranny fluid will eventually desludge any motor, give it a shot!

RENIX;
-embrace it and cope with the beast
or
-downgrade to any +1990 xj

im going to go put my flame suit on now :roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:
 
rag said:
im another that says tranny fluid will eventually desludge any motor, give it a shot!

RENIX;
-embrace it and cope with the beast
or
-downgrade to any +1990 xj

im going to go put my flame suit on now :roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:
Click to expand...

No flame here. Everyone knows RENIX is the way to go.:rtm:
 
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