cheap 3 fan

[Prom3theus]

No, not at all. A non-viscous fan will provide full cooling all the time.
With the present mostly stock setup, it doesn't run above 195 very much in the winter.
When the stock fan clutch engages, you can feel and hear it.
Tried the ZJ fan clutch and it stayed engaged year round. Fantastic cooling for a trail rig but way too much noise for a DD
plus it reduced my freeway mileage and made the engine run too cold at times.
I would like the mechanical fan mounted on a electromagnet clutch, like the A/C, so it could be engaged only when needed.

It took several years and a few bucks to finally get to the point where the cooling is not a problem anymore, which can be a challenge with the California spec dual mini-cat models.
To test for effectiveness of different changes, I use a ScanGauge to monitor intake air temp and coolant temp. A trans temp gauge is used for the AW4's oil temp.
Two additional temps gauges are used, one for the ambient air temp and the other monitoring the air-box temp.

It wasn't until after replacing the leaking A/C condenser that a big improvement in cooling was noticed.
The old condenser looked clean but was heavily corroded, evidently enough to significantly block the flow of air.
I bet this is the cause of a lot of XJ cooling problems.

When the stock radiator started leaking, I got a CSF 1-1/2" 3-core replacement. Worked OK but wasn't much better than the stock radiator.
Then looking through the Mopar XJ catalogue, I found the HD XJ radiator (52080104AC), 1-1/2" 2-core. I had never seen it mentioned by anyone before or since.
Ordered one and picked it up a the local Jeep dealer.
Installed it in the middle of the summer and the improvement was immediate.
Like you, I have thought about rebuilding the front end to accommodate a taller radiator and bigger fan.
A lot of our cooling problems come from having a marginally sized radiator.

Small improvement can be made by funneling as much air through the coolers and shrouds as possible.
I use rubber strips and heavy aluminum mending tape to seal the edges.
With a cowl intake, the front end can be better sealed to force more air through the coolers and not the headlight buckets.

Thanks, so your major cooling improvement was caused by the xj hd radiator. That's good info, thx for part #, I didn't know about it either. When the weather warms up a bit, I'll start working on the xj (need to rebuild the rear Dana 44, swap for an ax15 and regear the axles-oh joy...) and I will try moving the efans to the front since I won't need a trans cooler anymore and make them work as pushers and also have the stock viscous back on the engine and see if that helps. Btw, my condenser looks good and with no obstructions, I still need to try cleaning the trans cooler and condenser fins with those hvac solvents, I know it helps but can't say how much.

 

[s14unimog]

Man, does this conversation get beaten to death on here or what? Although I don't agree with your wiring setup or practices and believe you could have actually found cheaper higher performing fans, I do agree with dropping the mech fan.

All of you stating CFM specs on that mechanical couldn't be more off. The stock fan, at idle is not pulling 5-6k CFM. Remember, we (the majority) do our wheeling at idle rpms.... An e-fan has no concern what the engine rpm is - a clear irrefutable advantage over the mech. Beyond that, it's preference really

Honestly though, and stated already, the short coming of the XJ's cooling starts with the radiator. Those CSF (which is what I am running) should be the first on everyone's list for those trying to improve the cooling.

 

[cal]

All of you stating CFM specs on that mechanical couldn't be more off. The stock fan, at idle is not pulling 5-6k CFM. Remember, we (the majority) do our wheeling at idle rpms.... An e-fan has no concern what the engine rpm is - a clear irrefutable advantage over the mech. Beyond that, it's preference really

If we only ever ran our cars at idle, that would be a valid argument. As pretty much everyone of us at some point drives on a highway, or in sand, or mud, or up a hill..

 

[s14unimog]

If we only ever ran our cars at idle, that would be a valid argument. As pretty much everyone of us at some point drives on a highway, or in sand, or mud, or up a hill..

granted, although my truck in most cases gets hot only when stuck in line on a trail, traffic, pinned in an obstacle, etc... Maybe I should have said near idle or below 2500rpm (where the fan drops out)

I am running no mech fan and only a new factory spec'd aux. with a CSF 3-row and for daily use don't have any overheating issues.

You and I have gone back and forth on this in a previous thread. The bottom line is that e-fan has a fixed output but requires that the install/operator be much more cautious about how it's fitted, run-time regulated, etc... It's just not simply running b/c the engine is running.

 

[Hoooper]

The taurus/volvo fan cools a V8 in an XJ on an XJ sized aluminum radiator while throttling around in 4 low and around town, why do you guys think an e-fan cant cool a 4.0?

 

[DeftwillP]

Nice, you've cut your cfm probably in half. The stock mechanical fan moves around 5-6000cfm. If you live where it gets hot, keep your old parts as you'll probably be putting them back on.


How did your timing chain look?

This is the first time I've heard this figure anywhere near that high. Didn't dirtbound do a fancy study to see how much cfm the stock setup moved?

 

[shawnhancel]

Yea, I looked into it some, most the post I found searching around google and other forums, most claim that at idle the stock fan and aux fan on was around 2800-3200. I saw some 3 fan kits rated at 2800, so I thought I'd be good at 3K. The temp sensor is the push into the radiator style at the coolant inlet side. I will be doing a 3 row radiator in the summer, but I will wait it out. Ill see how this runs when it gets warmer out. I live in eastern Ohio and it doesn't get as hot as it does down in SoCal and south Texas but I will bring this back around once it gets hot out again. I doubt Ill reinstall that mechanical fan. I have a Chevy Cruze for daily driving. But honestly, I think it'll be fine.

I am really open to any better wiring ideas. Im begging for some better wiring ideas. I got 2 prong trailer harnesses but I can't get 2 wires in it to run to the next fan. So the way it is was the best I could think up.

 

[Hoooper]

get the german temp switch that triggers the relays from actual coolant temp. It comes with the dirtbound setup and aside from tapping the thermostat housing and using the BMW type sensor its the best solution. Trying to use air temp over the radiator to guess water temp is questionable at best

 

[shawnhancel]

Ill be sure to keep that in mind. Is it enough for 3 fans?

 

[lazyxj]

granted, although my truck in most cases gets hot only when stuck in line on a trail, traffic, pinned in an obstacle, etc

I am running no mech fan and only a new factory spec'd aux. with a CSF 3-row and for daily use don't have any overheating issues.

No mechanical fan, only the aux electric fan and your XJ does not over heat, even while wheeling in Georgia's summer heat?

Amazing!

 

[lazyxj]

The taurus/volvo fan cools a V8 in an XJ on an XJ sized aluminum radiator while throttling around in 4 low and around town, why do you guys think an e-fan cant cool a 4.0?

No one said that electric fans cannot work, it's obvious that they do when they are adequately powerful and correctly installed. Three 10" fans do not pull all that much air.
Check the amperage used by different diameter fans. Assuming similar efficiencies in the way different sized fans produce flow, higher amperage draws should equal greater air flow.
The average 10" fan draw 7-8 amps, times three for a total of 21-24-amps.
10" fans pull around 800-CFM, according to manufacturer's specs

The Taurus fan pulls about 4500-CFM and uses 33-amp running.
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoTaurusFanInstall1.htm
Getting the big Taurus fan to fit the short XJ radiator can be a challenge.

 

[shawnhancel]

I think the problem is the fan is only little more than 10 inches tall. My buddy has a wrangler, one 2400CFM fan, never got hot while we was wheeling till the fan broke a blade… And he has a 4.7 stroker.

 

[cal]

One 2400 cfm fan will not cool a real 4.7 stroker under load. It might have 'worked', but it wasn't hot out, wasn't under load, wasn't actually a stroker, or wasn't the truth.

Its not even a fact that is up for debate.

 

[techno1154]

One 2400 cfm fan will not cool a real 4.7 stroker under load. It might have 'worked', but it wasn't hot out, wasn't under load, wasn't actually a stroker, or wasn't the truth.

Its not even a fact that is up for debate.

Cal, did you at one time used or wanted to use some 12" fans? What happened to that project?

 

[cal]

I looked up the specs on about 700 fan's. The math doesn't work, they don't move enough air.

I mean I seriously spent like a week obsessing over it. Its just not there

 

[mechbullxj]

https://s1303.photobucket.com

 

[gradon]

My broken record says: "Two stock '97+ 10-blade aux fans cool an ax15 stroker just fine in the DC swamp."

Oh yeah: fyrfytr1717 is your friend.

 

[mechbullxj]

http://imageshack.com/i/ip.DUQoHKJ]

...ectric fans are capable of keeping 4.0l cool.

 

[Hoooper]

Ill be sure to keep that in mind. Is it enough for 3 fans?

It provides two grounds at two different coolant temps for relays, so you would use two relays to control three fans.

 

[s14unimog]

No mechanical fan, only the aux electric fan and your XJ does not over heat, even while wheeling in Georgia's summer heat?

Amazing!

So far. I'm telling you, that stock radiator is the biggest achilles heel.