Building my own control arms

[XJHUGHES]

So i got a 3inch rough country lift for my jeep and im going to be building my own control arms, I was wondering what thickness of steel i should use. I have a friend that can get me any size and thickness i need. Im thinking about using .188 or .250 wall tube will this be strong enough>?

 

[the_weirdo]

IMO .188 should be plenty and .250 would be bullet-proof.

 

[Mnkyboy]

I would go with .250, are you planning to use bushings or flex joints?

If all you want is stronger arms just get some WJ arms, they are much stronger then stock and are designed to give turning clearance for bigger tires.

 

[XJHUGHES]

Im planning on useing some balistic fab flex joints ive had for years on the unibody side and getting some currie poly bushings for the axle side, i was thinkin .250 too just in case i land hard on something.

 

[Mnkyboy]

I guess its not so bad if you already have the joints, usually when you add up the parts it cheaper to buy a set then build them.

 

[jonesinxj]

If it were me, I'd shop around before using ballistic.... Maybe they are better now, but their customer service reputation and turn around reputation isn't the greatest. Maybe look at ruff stuff, have ordered a few joints from him and have NEVER been dissapointed

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Ballistic has improved! They stock what they sell and ship it out fast. I had a good talk with the owner recently. They have changed their model and it is working for them.

Besides he said that he already had the joints...

Speaking of which, Hughes, I'd be interested to see what you think of them? Are they the forged or the billet joints? I was thinking about using those on my next build... and .250 wall would be better. They will resist denting and bending. I've seen what happens when lca's fail. Think about pushing your front drivelne through your transfer case!

 

[RedJeep2.0]

.250 wall and don't forget to plug weld the threaded tube inserts before you weld the lip.

Leave the joint in the threaded insert with lots of grease or Anti-Seize. I have welded the tube inserts and got them to hot and had to retap the threads. It sucks :doh:

Heat = Penetration

Don't want to pull a Dellstopjeep on the trail and have a control arm come apart.

 

[kenny811]

.250 wall and don't forget to plug weld the threaded tube inserts before you weld the lip.

Leave the joint in the threaded insert with lots of grease or Anti-Seize. I have welded the tube inserts and got them to hot and had to retap the threads. It sucks :doh:

Heat = Penetration

Don't want to pull a Dellstopjeep on the trail and have a control arm come apart.

I agree !! with the grease part.

 

[BPB]

I had a joint that I had used a ton of anti seize and grease it got stuck. Tried torching it sheeted I side the adaptor. I had to drill it out and rap it. From the on I just welt them in. Slowly, not getting it to hot and then chase the treads with a tap.

 

[98CherokeeSport]

I would recomend not welding the bungs with the joint inside. Weld the bungs and let it cool and the joint should go in fine

I always do .250" wall on lower links for the sole reason that the lower links take all of the abuse. You can get away with a thinner wall tube for the uppers since all they do is control the angle of the axle

 

[BPB]

Not to mention that you can over hear the joint and ruin it

 

[Avanteone]

Fuwk ballistic. Don't buy from them. And this is one of those questions, where if you have to ask.. maybe you shouldn't be fabbing yourself???

 

[BPB]

It's a simple job, don't stress about it. If people never did new things that are challenging then no one would ever learn anything new. ballistic has really come around. I fell victim to their poor customer service a couple years ago. Then last year when I was looking at axle brackets. I wound up ordering a bunch from them. Shipped super fast great quality as always.

 

[Clean Racing]

Fuwk ballistic. Don't buy from them. And this is one of those questions, where if you have to ask.. maybe you shouldn't be fabbing yourself???

X2

 

[KarlVP]

Fuwk ballistic. Don't buy from them. And this is one of those questions, where if you have to ask.. maybe you shouldn't be fabbing yourself???

I purchased from ballastic back in 09. Yes I received my order on time and am happy with their product, but they burned too many people.

I will NEVER do business with them again.

 

[KarlVP]

Also, are you building custom length control arms?

If you are just using stock length control arms, it's easier and cheaper to just buy some aftermarket arms. What with the warranty you get and all...

 

[XJHUGHES]

Im going to make my control arms a little bit longer to get a better approach angle. I ALREADY HAVE THE BALISTIC FAB JOINTS!!!!!! If ya wanna bash them bash away and i cant ask a question about what thickness would be better to go with? man this place sure does ****ing suck

 

[XJHUGHES]

Im going to make my control arms a little bit longer to get a better approach angle. I ALREADY HAVE THE BALISTIC FAB JOINTS!!!!!! If ya wanna bash them bash away and i cant ask a question about what thickness would be better to go with? man this place sure does ****ing suck

 

[Avanteone]

Im going to make my control arms a little bit longer to get a better approach angle. I ALREADY HAVE THE BALISTIC FAB JOINTS!!!!!! If ya wanna bash them bash away and i cant ask a question about what thickness would be better to go with? man this place sure does ****ing suck

IF you're moving the axle far enough out to increase approach angles, what are you doing abuot coil spring perches, shock mountings, wheelwells, etc? Just curious.