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Budget 4.10's

IslanderOffRoad said:
having done this, i agree, its the easiest for the rear. I'd rather pay someone to regar than swap the front axle ever again.

Yeah, but I'm a cheap sob and I don't mind getting my hands dirty. Besides, I can get whole axles for $65 at the local pull-n-save.
 
J-Roc said:
I'm not trying to split hairs here... gettting conflicting information, a few guys say it's ok on pirate, but I figured I'd get better opinions here seeing how we are strictly cherokee based.

If it comes down to setting up the diff, I'll be giving PORC a shout
One thing to consider is that used gears may not sit in your housing the same way they did in the original housing so they migh wear out very quickly in your housing.
 
95meangreen said:
shit if you find a 2.5 4 cylinder with and auto they had 4.56 gears that would be a tough find though

You mean a 2.5L with the AW4. That's the only combo that had 4.56's. JIM.
 
fizassist said:
1. I'm a pussy
2. I don't have the tools required to do the job and don't know what tools I would need at the barebone minimum
3. There is a reason it costs so much to gear a differential and that must mean it is a complicated and tedious task which I have no experience with.

Perhaps if I had a well recommended book on differential gearing and I read it front to back five times I would consider doing the job myself.
 
J-Roc said:
1. I'm a pussy
2. I don't have the tools required to do the job and don't know what tools I would need at the barebone minimum
3. There is a reason it costs so much to gear a differential and that must mean it is a complicated and tedious task which I have no experience with.

Perhaps if I had a well recommended book on differential gearing and I read it front to back five times I would consider doing the job myself.

Although it's not that difficult. There is some tool 's needed to do it right. And a basic understanding of how it all works. I applaud you for being honest about it. not some jacka$$'s on here and think they can do anything & than post up "wtf? I'm lost, what did I do".
 
I've read the write up on pirate on gearing but I would much rather read a write up on gearing a D30 that way I have step by step instructions. I have a basic idea, I understand pattern reading really I'm just scared to do it. If I had a weekend to work with it I am sure that I could get it done. But like I said, I don't know what tools are required to do the job. Anyone have a book they could recommend?
 
be careful when buying when buying diffs from a 4 banger,i have had 2 86's both 4 cyl. 1 auto 1 stick,BOTH with 354's. if you assume that they have the gears you want you may get dissapointed
 
so how do you figure out if the 4 bangers have 4.10's with out popping a diff cover off, some guy wants to trade me his jeep for my hunting rifle and all i want is the diffs
 
Don't know why yur mileage took such a dump. I run 31's on stock gears and just checked it at 19.2mpg. Granted this is mostly highway driving. Until you complete yur swap make sure yur air filter is good and clean and run yur psi up as high as you can without crowning.

To check the crowning, inflate your tires to max psi shown on sidewall. Make a good chalk line acros the entire tred. Drive it in a straight line for bout 1/4 mile. Check chalk. decrease psi, rechalk and repeat till chalk wears off evenly.
 
gill41083 said:
so how do you figure out if the 4 bangers have 4.10's with out popping a diff cover off, some guy wants to trade me his jeep for my hunting rifle and all i want is the diffs

Look for the tag on the diff cover. You can also look for the BOM number stamped in the axle tube and look it up at http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~deabill~4~. On the rear it's on the passenger side facing aft about 5" from the pumpkin. On the front it's in the middle section facing forward.
 
CJ's98XJ said:
Don't know why yur mileage took such a dump. I run 31's on stock gears and just checked it at 19.2mpg. Granted this is mostly highway driving. Until you complete yur swap make sure yur air filter is good and clean and run yur psi up as high as you can without crowning.

To check the crowning, inflate your tires to max psi shown on sidewall. Make a good chalk line acros the entire tred. Drive it in a straight line for bout 1/4 mile. Check chalk. decrease psi, rechalk and repeat till chalk wears off evenly.
Mixed city and highway I was lucky to get 220 miles out of a tank with no lift and 235/75's
Now I am down to 156 miles mixed driving
This is a '96 I will be replacing the 02 sensors damn soon, it's the only thing I haven't done yet....
I haven't had a solid highway commute with the 31's yet
The best I had this summer (on original ignition components) was 350 miles with my 235's
I drive like a grandma so hopefully the gears will help me...

I would say the largest factor is the short commute to school which is approximately 5 miles lol... I'm lazy in the snow, I will probably be biking again once the weather gets better
 
whompinxj said:
go for the mj axle!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you read his post correctly you would see he is talking about the Dana 30 which is a front axle. He said he has seen alot of 4 cylinder 2wd MJ's.

A 2wd does not have a Dana 30......it has NO gears in the front end---It's only rear wheel drive!
 
There was an MJ axle on car-part not too long ago, that was what he was referring to, it has since been removed. I think my best bet will be to get sensors fixed first before I do the differential gears however...
 
You need to factor in for the odometer reading less miles due to the larger diameter tires when you figure your gas mileage. I think you'll find that your mileage isn't nearly as bad as you think. That said, I was still able to clock over 200 miles on my odometer with 31's and stock gears. Is your right foot that heavy???

31's on my 88 weren't bad at all (4.0/auto/3.55 gears), and the same goes for our 96 (4.0/auto/3.55 gears)...this thing will dust our 5.2 Durango, and still gets acceptable gas mileage (15-18 mpg being driven hard).
 
I didn't want to turn this into a fuel economy thread but... speedo correction is calculated (10%), no the right foot is feather light... no jack rabbiting, shifts around 2000 (auto). 4.10 sounds like I'll be slightly overgeared so that should help in the city, which is what I am hoping for, highway regardless will always be better then city mileage so if I can turn it up to 16mpg in the city and 18ish on the highway I'll be a happy camper, if I can do better... sweet!
 
how bout jrock instead of finding axles in a junkyard u just pay the money and get it done right instead of mixmatching shit and hope it stays together.
 
well sir, you are an idiot because over half the people on this board have "mismatched" stuff from the wreckers, so shut yer trap ya noob
 
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