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Brake issue! !!

Sounds like you made out pretty good. If you only have a weep after your first time making brake lines, I'd say you did good!

Now, how is Pezman doing with his?
 
I've been busy I just need to get back on it and re- bleed it and go from there .....kind of lagging!

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Lkn.my friend let me borrow his and I ran 2 pints through and still have air in line.!!!! Looked for wet leaks and found none.....argggggh

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pezman65 said:
Lkn.my friend let me borrow his and I ran 2 pints through and still have air in line.!!!! Looked for wet leaks and found none.....argggggh

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Click to expand...



How do you know you have air in the line? Feel of the pedal or bubbles in the bleed line?

When I bled mine I kept getting bubbles in the bleed line into the catch basin, but I don't think it was coming from the nipple. I think it was coming in from the rubber connection to the nipple from the bleed tube to the basin. In other words, air was being sucked into the bleed tube while it was sucking brake fluid out of the hard line, putting bubbles in the clear tubing to the catch basin.

Try the brakes. That's the true test. If the brakes work to your expectation, be done with it.


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Yeah that's what I'm thinking maybe it was sucking air through the nipple. Because for the life of me I could not get the bubbles out! I'm going to bleed it the old-fashioned way

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The pedal is soft and it will stop but it will not lock up the front brakes so yeah there is air in the line somewhere

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Also I adjusted the rod out until it barely touch inside the master cylinder then I turned it in half a rotation not sure if that's the problem or not and not an expert, just figuring it out as I go

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If you got the master and booster together, the adjuster rod is already setup properly. I prefer the Russell speed bleeders for one man brake bleeding. I use them on the motorcycle and they work great. Never got them for the XJ since I was changing brakes but they should work very well in this case too.
FWIW, I can panic stop with no problems at all very safely, and I can't lock up my front brakes and will barely get a chirp from the rear depending on what I have in the cargo area. Pedal doesn't quite go to the floor and is softer than I like but obviously works. Just 'cause you can't lock the brakes up doesn't mean there is air in the lines. The stock fronts were designed for light street tires and aluminum wheels with much less rotational inertia and a typically lighter vehicle as well.
 
Yeah the booster and the MC came together but I didn't know about the pedal at the time so we had to adjust it.the MC wouldn't Mount flush. So now I'm not for sure if it's correct like I said I I turned it in just a little bit after it touched.

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I just got done bleeding them the bubbled out old fashioned way. as far as I could tell the bubbles out.it's a one-man deal so you can't see bubbles coming out.

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Pedal just doesn't seem like it's hard. Will test drive it on the street when I come home from work. Drove it back and forth in the driveway definitely stop better backing up then forward! Puzzled look on face

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pezman65 said:
If I have to re-bench bleed the MC what's the best way without taking it off?

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Click to expand...



Go to the store and buy this:

http://m.autozone.com/brakes-and-tr...-cylinder-bleeding-tool/348463_0_0/?cmpid=PS:

Take the brake lines off from the MC to the P Valve and screw these fittings in. Run the black hose from the fitting back to the reservoir. Fill with fluid. Pump the pedal a whole bunch of times but always make sure the hoses are submerged in fluid in the reservoir. That will bench bleed it on the vehicle.

Really easy. Just will require you to remove the two short lines from MC to PV then re-bleed the brakes again.


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