Bodywork/Painting people...buggy panel painting input needed!

[freerider15]

Alright, so the time is coming near where I'll need to paint the buggy's panels.

I know some of you here do this kinda stuff for a living...so I would value your input.

As much as I thought about going with single stage, i'm just not sure it's going to give me the "pop" I want.

Color I want the panels:

The kicker...I'm new to painting

I've talked some with Sam (zluster) about this and what I need, but its always good to hear from others.

I'm going to pick up the HF Automotive HVLP set (I would get a better name brand set but not worth it with the little I plan on using it):

http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html

I know prep is 90% of the job.

The panels will be:

- 4 cut up stock XJ Fenders with factory paint on them
- 1 hood (bare metal)
- 2 doors (bare metal)
- Roof (bare aluminum)
- Rear gate (both factory paint / bare metal)
- Front header panel (plastic)

So with that I could use input on:

- Best way to prep each
- Painting technique cues
- Paint recommendations
- EVERYTHING ELSE I'm not thinking of

I really wouldn't be opposed to having someone spray it for me (one of you guys on here) pending I did all the prep...just thinking it would be out of my $ range.

So please, endow me with all your knowledge! And details please (like use XX grit, followed by XX....not just "prep is key")

 

[Gunter]

your bare metal panels--
p180 grit in bare metal can be painted with 2 coats of epoxy primer, then your color and clearcoat.
no need for primer surfacer and all that sanding and labor.
anywhere you have sanded through paint or bondo you need primer surfacer. but only on the bondo and
the broken paint around those areas.
if you have sound paint(no cracks, peeling etc) all you need is red or gray scotchbrite by itself or scrub with water and comet. corny but it will clean and take the shine off good sound paint.scrub and rinse it well .
epoxy over bare metal and then color right over that is good, it will give best adhesion to the metal. and saves many hours of sanding labor and time.

 

[Gunter]

also there are sheet aluminium that can be purchased with color already on one side. to be considered for custom made panels.if you keep your color simple and single stage that will save you a lot of money.
also you can use decal sheets in many colors as well. paint and labor gets very pricey.

maaco the panels and then consider getting the panels wrapped in vinyl. my own opinion is expensive paint is nuts for something to get beat up and scratched off road. your call

 

[freerider15]

Thanks for the input Gunter.

As far as the aluminum roof panels goes...If it is too much of a PITA to paint it in order to get the paint to adhere I'll just leave it bare.

All my interior panels will be primed will aluminum primer and shot with dark gray rustoleum hammered.

Before Proracedriver wants to strangle me....

I don't expect this to come out perfect by any means as if I had a shop do it all for....but I would hope for "decently good". I know these panels will get beaten up, so a "show" quality paint job is pointless. However...since might be a *slight* chance of a magazine shoot I would like them to not look like crap (that and I've spent this frikken long building it...so it would be nice for it too match the amount of work I've put into it already).

 

[SeeingSpots]

Alright, so the time is coming near where I'll need to paint the buggy's panels.

I know some of you here do this kinda stuff for a living...so I would value your input.

As much as I thought about going with single stage, i'm just not sure it's going to give me the "pop" I want.

Color I want the panels:

The kicker...I'm new to painting

I've talked some with Sam (zluster) about this and what I need, but its always good to hear from others.

I'm going to pick up the HF Automotive HVLP set (I would get a better name brand set but not worth it with the little I plan on using it):

http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html

I know prep is 90% of the job.

The panels will be:

- 4 cut up stock XJ Fenders with factory paint on them
- 1 hood (bare metal)
- 2 doors (bare metal)
- Roof (bare aluminum)
- Rear gate (both factory paint / bare metal)
- Front header panel (plastic)

So with that I could use input on:

- Best way to prep each
- Painting technique cues
- Paint recommendations
- EVERYTHING ELSE I'm not thinking of

I really wouldn't be opposed to having someone spray it for me (one of you guys on here) pending I did all the prep...just thinking it would be out of my $ range.

So please, endow me with all your knowledge! And details please (like use XX grit, followed by XX....not just "prep is key")

Rather than tell you over the interwebs, you're going to need someone to show you in person. Painting & Bodywork is an applied art which means you can only learn so much by reading. I know you're a wicked smart guy but painting requires a rhythm like dancing. It takes a shit load of times doing it to get it right. Spend a split second longer in one spot then the next, and you'll either get runs or low spots. Paint is a finicky bitch. So is body work.

First and foremost you need to get sanding boards of all different lengths for the long body panels. That's what will give you the flat look when you're sanding down your primer and fillers. You'll also need a wide range of quality sandpapers ranging from 180 - 700 depending on how flat your want your base. For cutting the orange peel/clear coat, you'll want wet/dry 3M sandpaper from 1200-2000.

Secondly. Don't waste your money on the HF HVLP gun. I'll let you borrow a set of mine with tips that can be used both for primer, base, and clear. Also you're going to need an inline water catch with a new air hose. All of the oils that have collected in your hose will make a B-line right into your paint and then you'll have a buttload of fish eyes. Not good.

You know what....when you're ready to do this, just PM me. I can come up and show you. Just make sure to throw me some cred when you get your main spread in a magazine.

Jim

 

[freerider15]

Rather than tell you over the interwebs, you're going to need someone to show you in person. Painting & Bodywork is an applied art which means you can only learn so much by reading. I know you're a wicked smart guy but painting requires a rhythm like dancing. It takes a shit load of times doing it to get it right. Spend a split second longer in one spot then the next, and you'll either get runs or low spots. Paint is a finicky bitch. So is body work.

First and foremost you need to get sanding boards of all different lengths for the long body panels. That's what will give you the flat look when you're sanding down your primer and fillers. You'll also need a wide range of quality sandpapers ranging from 180 - 700 depending on how flat your want your base. For cutting the orange peel/clear coat, you'll want wet/dry 3M sandpaper from 1200-2000.

Secondly. Don't waste your money on the HF HVLP gun. I'll let you borrow a set of mine with tips that can be used both for primer, base, and clear. Also you're going to need an inline water catch with a new air hose. All of the oils that have collected in your hose will make a B-line right into your paint and then you'll have a buttload of fish eyes. Not good.

You know what....when you're ready to do this, just PM me. I can come up and show you. Just make sure to throw me some cred when you get your main spread in a magazine.

Jim

Jim, thanks for input!

I know much like anything of the sort...like welding...the only way to be proficient at it is with practice. No matter how many videos you see or how many people tell you how to do it...doing it is the only way to really truly get a handle on it.

Luckily Sam (zluster) has a bit of experience in painting...so he's been able to kind of let me know how the process works and to possibly give me a hand. Either way I might have to take you up on having ya come by

I'll be picking up the HF HVLP gun set anyways...as I'll be using it to paint the chassis with the rustoleum hammered (still shooting for this weekend)....though a better set would never hurt I plan on picking up a different hose, a filter, and a regulator for doing this as I definitely do NOT want any moisture or debris to have a chance in the line.

Luckily as far as the panels go, I don't really need much of any "bodywork" per se. All the fenders are straight, as well as the hood, roof, and door panels. The only ones that might need a little bit of work would be the front header panel and rear tailgate piece.

So from what I understand:

- the bare metal pieces...clean, primer, sand, clean, paint, clear.
- Fenders with clean factory paint on them...clean, scruff until dull looking (I know there is a little more to it than that), clean, paint, clear
- Plastic header panel...clean, plastic primer?, paint (flex agent additive?), clear
- Aluminum - not fukkin sure :laugh:

If I do end up wet sanding them to remove any orange peel / fisheye...it wouldn't probably be until a hair later down the road when I've got some free time to make them look even better.

 

[SeeingSpots]

Jim, thanks for input!

I know much like anything of the sort...like welding...the only way to be proficient at it is with practice. No matter how many videos you see or how many people tell you how to do it...doing it is the only way to really truly get a handle on it.

Luckily Sam (zluster) has a bit of experience in painting...so he's been able to kind of let me know how the process works and to possibly give me a hand. Either way I might have to take you up on having ya come by

I'll be picking up the HF HVLP gun set anyways...as I'll be using it to paint the chassis with the rustoleum hammered (still shooting for this weekend)....though a better set would never hurt I plan on picking up a different hose, a filter, and a regulator for doing this as I definitely do NOT want any moisture or debris to have a chance in the line.

Luckily as far as the panels go, I don't really need much of any "bodywork" per se. All the fenders are straight, as well as the hood, roof, and door panels. The only ones that might need a little bit of work would be the front header panel and rear tailgate piece.

So from what I understand:

- the bare metal pieces...clean, primer, sand, clean, paint, clear.
- Fenders with clean factory paint on them...clean, scruff until dull looking (I know there is a little more to it than that), clean, paint, clear
- Plastic header panel...clean, plastic primer?, paint (flex agent additive?), clear
- Aluminum - not fukkin sure :laugh:

If I do end up wet sanding them to remove any orange peel / fisheye...it wouldn't probably be until a hair later down the road when I've got some free time to make them look even better.

I'm glad you have someone with some experience to help you. Unlike metalwork, painting has such a small margin of error, and if you screw up just one part of the process, everything that you've done to get to that point has to be redone. It's very unforgiving and that's why a lot of people hire professionals to do it.

I would highly recommend going to a local paint supply shop and give them the make/model/year of the color that you want to shoot. The paint system may or may not come in a single stage option - if it does that's the easiest. More than likely that paint on the Mustang is a 2 or 3 color system which means you'll have to shoot a white, gold, and red base color in layers before you spray the clear.

Kind of like this... This was a House of Color Candy Apple Red with a Zenith Gold undercoat. One of my favorite custom color combinations I used to paint. This was on a hand built gas tank for a 63' Ducati Monza that I made from 16ga sheet. The Gold undercoat is what makes the contours of the metal pop. I think this is what you're looking for.

 

[freerider15]

I'm glad you have someone with some experience to help you. Unlike metalwork, painting has such a small margin of error, and if you screw up just one part of the process, everything that you've done to get to that point has to be redone. It's very unforgiving and that's why a lot of people hire professionals to do it.

I would highly recommend going to a local paint supply shop and give them the make/model/year of the color that you want to shoot. The paint system may or may not come in a single stage option - if it does that's the easiest. More than likely that paint on the Mustang is a 2 or 3 color system which means you'll have to shoot a white, gold, and red base color in layers before you spray the clear.

Kind of like this... This was a House of Color Candy Apple Red with a Zenith Gold undercoat. One of my favorite custom color combinations I used to paint. This was on a hand built gas tank for a 63' Ducati Monza that I made from 16ga sheet. The Gold undercoat is what makes the contours of the metal pop. I think this is what you're looking for.

Wow that tank looks fantastic! (and basically exactly the color I would love to have the buggy)

"Used to paint"...do you still paint professionally or no?

But thats all I need...is another layer of basecoat to fukk up :laugh:

As far as color...thats a slight issue I have. I don't know what the color is, I more just looked at pictures and went "THAT ONE!"

I've seen some pretty similar and nice looking OEM paint schemes. (I drive 2 hours a day to get to and from work...its a way to pass time). Most are a hair lighter than I want...but would be happy with anyhow (my ideal color was a darker, almost blood red candy apple).

The one I saw today was on a Ram 1500...maybe I could look that paint code up.

Its things like this where I hate being so effing anal retentive. I wish I could be happy with a rattle can job...would make life so much easier :laugh:

 

[freerider15]

Found it...

Twas this...which I think I could definitely live with

Paint Code: PRP

Question is...who the hell do I go to, if I wanted that color?

 

[SeeingSpots]

Found it...

Twas this...which I think I could definitely live with

Paint Code: PRP

Question is...who the hell do I go to, if I wanted that color?

Any reputable paint supplier can mix it in-house for you. Just make sure you get the entire system from the same paint manufacturer (paints sometime react funny with a another company's reducer, activator, etc...). Best bet is to just get the whole thing together as a kit - so to speak.

Also make sure to get the tech sheet which will have mixing ratios, recoat times, recommended air pressure, etc... Have them throw in some mixing cups and cup filters too. They usually throw this stuff in for free if you ask nicely.

If youre willing to drive down to Denver, I've used these guys for my projects and theyve been awesome so far:

http://www.painterssupply.net/contact.html

My number #1 paint shop is still Dale's in the Springs. Those guys make my paint technique look amateurish. And their prices are the best in Colorado.

 

[SeeingSpots]

"Used to paint"...do you still paint professionally or no?

Not exactly. I still dabble and help people out when it's needed; but as a primary source of income, not anymore.

Its things like this where I hate being so effing anal retentive. I wish I could be happy with a rattle can job...would make life so much easier :laugh:

Don't compromise. You'll hate yourself and it'll never feel right. You'll spend more time regretting the direction you took rather than enjoying the final product. I've been down this road a million times myself.

If you want THAT red then damnit you're going to get that red! lol


I'm more than happy to help you.