Ball joints for WJ knuckle swap

[gorman]

I'm in the process of ordering all the parts I'll be needing for my WJ knuckle swap. For now I'll settle on all WJ tie rod ends from Moog. Some people say one should go for Chevy tie rod end at the pitman arm as it will allow for more droop - I thought it easier to just get all the Moog stuff for a WJ and be done with it.

Wrt the balljoint onto which the knuckle mounts. Seeing that I'm redoing the whole front end, it would be senseless to not replace these with new ones also. Now the question: On Rockauto where I'm ordering the parts from they list normal Moog lower ball joints (MOOG Part # K3185) and adjustable ones (MOOG Part # K7429) which offer caster/camber adjustment range from -1-3/4 to +1-3/4 Deg. Pricewise they are about the same. I was leaning towards the adjustable ones just to have the ability to adjust caster/camber when necessary. However, with these the way I figure you will have to adjust something when fitting these, i.e. you don't have the option to just select a normal OE setting as the mounting point on the knuckle is off centre. So when the axle is straight and it is set for zero camber, then it will affect caster and vice versa. Can someone shed some light on the use of these ball joints?....or should I just get a normal, non adjustable one?

 

[Lowrange2]

Unless your inner c is bent you shouldn't need them. What did your allignment sheet say baout camber last time you had it alligned? I would just go with stock WJ ball joints. I made the mistake of installing XJ balljoints when I did my conversion.

 

[cal]

I did the same thing, and I ended up swapping them out for WJ balljoints after I learned better.

So is life.

 

[gorman]

I'm doing a complete axle build, starting with retubing a Gearmax Mod 82 pumpkin so everything should be straight. Gearmax is a locally manufactured diff used in the local pickup ranges. Dana Spicer is the ultimate holding company of Gearmax, so it is family of the Dana axles, but there is no one to one relationship with the Mod 82 I'm using and a Dana. It's similar in shape to a Dana 30, but it's a little bit bigger and stronger, but not as big as a Dana 44. Nice thing is that all Mod 82 diffs have factory lockers.

So you're saying if my axle/inner knuckle is straight, I should just go for a normal upper and lower ball joint, i.e. MOOG Part # K3134T upper and MOOG Part # K3185 lower?


MOOG Part # K3134T {Ball Joint}
Frt Susp; Upper; 4WD; Problem Solver
Frt Susp; Upper; 2WD; Problem Solver

$37.79$0.00$37.79
ACDELCO Part # 45D0110 {#89050147}
JOINT,FRT UPR CONT ARM BALL -

$50.89$0.00$50.89
SPICER Part # 5051292 {Professional Grade}
Front Suspension; Lower

$58.79$0.00$58.79
MOOG Part # K7429 {Ball Joint}
Frt Susp; Lower; 4WD; Adjustable Ball Joint; adjustment range from -1-3/4 to +1-3/4 Deg.
Frt Susp; Lower; 2WD; Adjustable Ball Joint; adjustment range from -1-3/4 to +1-3/4 Deg.$61.99$0.00$61.99
MOOG Part # K3185 {Ball Joint}
Frt Susp; Lower; 2WD
Frt Susp; Lower; 4WD$64.99$0.00$64.99
ACDELCO Part # 45D2292 {#89050148}
JOINT,FRT LWR CONT ARM BALL -

$79.79$0.00$79.79
SPICER Part # 5001110 {Professional Grade}
Front Suspension; Upper* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 28 business days

$36.79$0.00$36.79