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Backyard Customs XJ Build

I also have to drop the crossmember down a few inches but keep the transmission/transfer case in the same place to clear my front driveshaft. With the addition of the "U Channel" I would be able to through bolt the crossmember I build and it would be nice and strong.

What would you recommend I do in this situation?
 
i think you should gusset too, maybe put your 3x3 over the existing in between, and bolt that through, and weld it, then gusset your boxes to the 3x3.


the cross member cant be hacked away on that side and reinforced underneath?

the way it was on the dodge truck was futher back, like the crossmember sat towards the rear about 6 inches, and it had a diving board kinda that went towards the front, and the x-fer and tranny rested on that.

remember that wierd bracket that came with the case? i think it's sitting in the shopping cart, or at least it was at one time, if you look at that, you might know what i mean.
 
Gusset the spring hangers
 
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mscans said:
i think you should gusset too, maybe put your 3x3 over the existing in between, and bolt that through, and weld it, then gusset your boxes to the 3x3.


the cross member cant be hacked away on that side and reinforced underneath?

the way it was on the dodge truck was futher back, like the crossmember sat towards the rear about 6 inches, and it had a diving board kinda that went towards the front, and the x-fer and tranny rested on that.

remember that wierd bracket that came with the case? i think it's sitting in the shopping cart, or at least it was at one time, if you look at that, you might know what i mean.
Click to expand...


The crossmember needs to be dropped quite a bit or moved toward the rear to clear the driveshaft during articulation. The dodge flange/cv you are referring to will not work...it puts the driveshaft further forward making the angles too steep for the cv...making it bind up(only has a 10* of travel before it binds). I changed the output to a yoke style instead of the flange. It allows the front driveshaft to be longer making the angles better.
 
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i was talking about the dodge cross member, it was behind the rear output on that x-fer case.

i know you changed the front driveshaft.

they had it completly behind the x-fercase, just below where the U joint is for the rear, giving you all kinds of space, but it would require you to tap/thread your frame stiffeners, i think that'll hold up that weight, alot of the tranny weight can hang on the motor mounts as we saw with mine.
 
Yeah, that is always an option. But with moving it back that far, what am I going to do about the tranny mount? I would love to just move it back so that it is under the transfer case and acts as a xfer case skid at the same time. I dont need to raise or lower the xfer either, its at perfect height. I was thinking of doing something like a xfer case drop and then putting something under the tranny mount to keep it where its at.
 
A little update: received 2 out of the 3 packages for the steering.

Got my ARP 4" stud kit, 1" spacer, and axle shims from Parts Mike (www.partsmike.com)

Got my High Clearance High Steer arms (1 7/8" tall) from Sky Manufacturing (www.sky-manufacturing.com)

Only thing left is the steering kit from Ballistic Fabrication (www.ballisticfabrication.com), its coming FedEx so it will probably be here sometime tomorrow.

I snapped a couple pictures of the junk since I cant install because of the rain.

P3170170.jpg

P3170171.jpg
 
Was a nice day yesterday so I installed the machined knuckle along with High steer arms and spacers. I am still waiting on the steering from Ballistic Fabrications. I called today and he said it should be shipping soon; ran out of DOM tubing and is waiting for a new shipment to come in.

Right now the weather is crap, if it clears up I will install the axle shims and make a new crossmember and gusset the shackle boxes so I can get my front driveshaft in. Ill try to get some pictures of the High steer installed after work.

Anyone have any ideas/pictures for a crossmember/skid that sits a little further back then the stock on to give clearance for the front driveshaft?
 
Fed Ex just delivered the last parts for the steering. I got the crossover steering kit from Ballistic Fabrication. Looks like it will not be raining after work today, so I should be able to weld the kit together and take it for a ride.
 
Got the steering bars made and installed on saturday but had a few things to do in the evening.

Just got back from taking it for a road test and to a sand pit. Everything is good except for the major death wobble I am experiencing. It turns so easily compared to my previous setup. While I was road testing I did a Uturn within 2 lanes; I had to use 3 lanes with the stock steering. There are still a bunch of things I need to do get the death wobble to go away. Here are some pictures of the current steering.

P4050004.jpg

P4050009.jpg

P4050020.jpg
 
i betcha a track bar might help!
 
nice to see your rig up and running around
When I got my steering together, I had a good shimmy in the wheel, I measured my toe a couple more times and got it within 1/16th" and it went away
 
It rode OK for the first test drive with the new steering parts.

Im looking into a panhard bar here soon. I also need to balance the tires, check the alignment and maybe add a steering stabilizer.

I want to look into putting in a steering box brace thing. My buddy has one on his YJ and it looks like a good piece to add with these bigger tires.
 
your DW could just be the tires. big meaty things like that that are super wide and bias can give you DW really easy.
 
call me stupid but why would you want to go from coils to leafs??? seems to me you are going backwards in offroad capabilaties ?? or not ?? cant spell !!
 
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