Axle Nut

[Blaine B.]

Seals that keep crud out of the axle tube?... that sounds like what I need. are you talkin about a factory outer seal or some aftermarket dealio.

Aftermarket

 

[RCP Phx]

You need the equivalant to this(VW axle nut tool,same size,even more torque)! I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 1-7/16" socket,cut it in half,and welded it to a piece of 3/4"x3" flat stock.Then while applying pressure w/ a breaker bar you hit it w/ a BFH,NO PROBLEM!

All XJ's are 36mm!

 

[cwstnsko]

The type of wrench shown above is referred to as a slugging wrench, hammer wrench or sledge wrench. Here's and example of one that might be useful for our XJ axle nuts.

http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=MET+OFF+SLUG+WRNCH&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=JHD036M&SDesc=36mm+Metric+12%2DPoint+Super+Heavy%2DDuty+Offset+Slugging+Wrench

 

[Lowrange2]

All XJ's are 36mm!

I know that. I was trying to point out that that doesnt look like a VW tool, nevermind it doesnt matter. Thanks for the help guys. Everything is apart and i'm puttin stuff back together...

Wow those bitchs are pricey but I image worth it... any tips on how to clean that tube out?

 

[cal]

Pull the carrier. Pull the axle seals. Run a long peice of allthread from the outside into the third member. At the third, at a nut, 1.75" washer, and a nut. Pull it out. Repeat.

Gives you a good chance to replace your axle seals too.

 

[Lowrange2]

YEah I'll prolly be replacing the inner seals and installing a different loc-rite while I've got it apart.

 

[beakie]

going to replace my driver side axle shaft tonite, and I have run into the same problem as the original poster here.

just so you don't have to repeat yourselves, this is what I have done so far

removed hub with broken outer stub, in vise as we speak soaking in liquid wrench.
tried 36mm socket 1/2" drive with 3' breaker bar, turns out its called that because it breaks things. now 1- rachet and 1- 1/2"drive 12" breaker bar are broken and that 36mm nut isn't budging
Heat didn't do anything, don't have oxy and propane just isn't hot enough.
Now I have cut the shaft even with the nut, drilled into the middle of it and its soaking again over night, while I recooperate for battle again tomorrow.

I have thought about getting a 3/4" drive socket but I can't find one around here, even this 1/2" drive was part of a set that cost $80, on a return for full refund rental plan.
if all else fails I'll have to bring it to a shop to see if they can figure it out.
any other ideas?

 

[Lowrange2]

I finally got mine off after using a 3/4 drive 36 mm socket on a huge impact for about 5minutes per side at 200psi in a vise... it was bone jarring but I got it done. Now I'm lookin for outer seals and planning to replace my inner seals in the morning...

I assume the lower ball joint presses out from the top down?

 

[beakie]

well I guess I'll have to look into that route than.
I picked up some Superior Axle Tube Seals from groupbuy for $55. I am not big on water or mud, but it seems I always get into some whenever I get out, so hopefully this will help keep the crap out.

now to track down a 3/4 drive 36mm.

 

[Lowrange2]

my local parts store has a mac-daddy 3/4 drive socket set. Have you checked there? Well not at my local but yours... It'd be a bit far to drive from canada.

 

[lawsoncl]

Should you use anti-seize on the threads of something like this? That would certainly help me out since I don't have a torque wrench that goes high enough for 175 lbs.

You could get creative with the bathroom scale and a 2 or 3 foot cheater bar. Assuming 3' from the socket to your hands, with the wrench horizontal, stand on the bathroom scale and pull/push until you are 58 pounds lighter/heavier (the math is torque = distance x weight, so it's 175ft-lbs/3ft).

Yeah it's redneck, but what else you going to do when you have to torque that ballhitch nut to 350 ftlbs?

 

[Lowrange2]

You could get creative with the bathroom scale and a 2 or 3 foot cheater bar. Assuming 3' from the socket to your hands, with the wrench horizontal, stand on the bathroom scale and pull/push until you are 58 pounds lighter/heavier (the math is torque = distance x weight, so it's 175ft-lbs/3ft).

Yeah it's redneck, but what else you going to do when you have to torque that ballhitch nut to 350 ftlbs?

Pretty cool. Never thought of that...

 

[Timber]

You could get creative with the bathroom scale and a 2 or 3 foot cheater bar. Assuming 3' from the socket to your hands, with the wrench horizontal, stand on the bathroom scale and pull/push until you are 58 pounds lighter/heavier (the math is torque = distance x weight, so it's 175ft-lbs/3ft).

Yeah it's redneck, but what else you going to do when you have to torque that ballhitch nut to 350 ftlbs?

I've looked into that sort of method before, and I just didn't want to go through all that if I didn't absolutely have to. I also don't really consider that redneck--just using your head for more than a hatrack.

 

[RCP Phx]

You need the equivalant to this(VW axle nut tool,same size,even more torque)! I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 1-7/16" socket,cut it in half,and welded it to a piece of 3/4"x3" flat stock.Then while applying pressure w/ a breaker bar you hit it w/ a BFH,NO PROBLEM!

Mine cost about 5$ to make.As far as retorquing goes,Ive used this method for over 35 years.My weight is about 150,so a 2ft cheater bar means 300ft/lbs of torque.Simple math!

 

[OverlandZJ]

I assume the lower ball joint presses out from the top down?

Yes.

 

[Lowrange2]

Should I repack the carrier bearings before reinstalling?

 

[beakie]

well I just got mine off.
couldn't find a 3/4 drive, so stuck with the 1/2.
grabbed a few fitting I had (buddy is in middle of running airlines in garage) and hooked up the air impact... as stated above, it took a bit, maybe 30seconds... but it finalyl came off.
thats after soaking and everything else I did to it too.
thanks for the help all.

 

[OverlandZJ]

Should I repack the carrier bearings before reinstalling?

No, they get lubed with your differential fluid while running.

Or do you mean the unit (hub) bearings? Again no,,,, they are a sealed unit.

 

[duke000088]

Since it's easier to turn the screw when lubricated, you need less force to turn it and achieve the desired stretch ("preload") in the screw shaft. Therefore, you reduce the torque. Failure to do so can actually result in pulling the threads off of the shaft or out of the part, if you're not careful (and will certainly result in deformation and potential failure of the screw, at least...)


Anti-seize, by dint of being so slippery, require a reduction of installed torque by half.

Does this also apply to spark plugs? I just did a tune-up for the first time myself and torqued the plugs to FSM specs (IIRC 28 ft./lb.?). I used anti-seize on the plug threads (of course). Should I have reduced the torque on those -or- since EVERYONE uses anti-seize on plugs the good ol' FSM authors at Chrysler took that into consideration?

Sinking feeling in stomach growing... growing... help - I'm a newb and I'm scared!

Duke000088

 

[89xj]

Does this also apply to spark plugs? I just did a tune-up for the first time myself and torqued the plugs to FSM specs (IIRC 28 ft./lb.?). I used anti-seize on the plug threads (of course). Should I have reduced the torque on those -or- since EVERYONE uses anti-seize on plugs the good ol' FSM authors at Chrysler took that into consideration?

Sinking feeling in stomach growing... growing... help - I'm a newb and I'm scared!

Duke000088

its nothing to worry about, i have never used a torque wrench for spark plugs. im sure some will disagree though