- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I want that transmission! 
if only the IPT kit were about $300 cheaper.
if only the IPT kit were about $300 cheaper.
-
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AW4 - Blue Plate & Transgo
- Thread starter Mesh
- Start date
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
I have to ask...
Which way are you going to set the valve body? I just purchased the same 340-HD2 kit for my '98. It is my understanding that it can be set up for Street, Street of Off Road. Exclusively. Have not made up my mind yet and sort of need to do so pretty quickly.
Funny enough, the kit will be installed at my local Jeep Dealer as they came in as the least expensive quote including a full lubricant replacement.
Which way are you going to set the valve body? I just purchased the same 340-HD2 kit for my '98. It is my understanding that it can be set up for Street, Street of Off Road. Exclusively. Have not made up my mind yet and sort of need to do so pretty quickly.
Funny enough, the kit will be installed at my local Jeep Dealer as they came in as the least expensive quote including a full lubricant replacement.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Our HD2 kit had a 'truck' and 'race' option. We went 'truck' and next time will certainly go 'race'.
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
OK, why? I need to get the transmission to shift earlier...
I know, weird. But that is life with Forced Induction. Do not require high RPM shift points to make power...
I know, weird. But that is life with Forced Induction. Do not require high RPM shift points to make power...
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I dont think the shift kit will make it shift any earlier. It will make it shift *faster*, but at the same RPM.
I have a way to make it shift earlier. I'm not prepared to post the tech online yet as I havent tested it, but PM me in a couple of weeks and I'll give you the skinny backchannel.
I have a way to make it shift earlier. I'm not prepared to post the tech online yet as I havent tested it, but PM me in a couple of weeks and I'll give you the skinny backchannel.
O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
Works for me.
Rebuilding the Aw4 is tedious and you have to be comfortable with the amount of parts. The ATSG manual covers everything.
I went with the truck setting for the transgo kit. Maybe I’ll do the hot rod setting on my other valve body and switch it out during the summer. A couple questions for people who have installed the kit. Did the ball and pin in the 1-2 valve seem strange? I threw them in like they said but I don’t see the purpose of it. And the 3rd accumulator orange spring. I have one orange spring and it’s too weak to hold up the accumulator but I have an unmarked spring that matches the 2nd accumulator spring. Is this the correct one or am I missing something?
I'll have to give an update when the engine is done. Right now it's a bare block and I've started putting together a parts list.
I went with the truck setting for the transgo kit. Maybe I’ll do the hot rod setting on my other valve body and switch it out during the summer. A couple questions for people who have installed the kit. Did the ball and pin in the 1-2 valve seem strange? I threw them in like they said but I don’t see the purpose of it. And the 3rd accumulator orange spring. I have one orange spring and it’s too weak to hold up the accumulator but I have an unmarked spring that matches the 2nd accumulator spring. Is this the correct one or am I missing something?
I'll have to give an update when the engine is done. Right now it's a bare block and I've started putting together a parts list.
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O-Gauge Steamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
Anyone know exactly what the differences are between the shift versions? Easy to go from small to large, expense if the Hot Rod setting is too harsh...
Am canvassing for opinions prior to having the kit installed. Open to suggestions here.
Am canvassing for opinions prior to having the kit installed. Open to suggestions here.
WoodlandXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodland Park, Colorado
Mesh,
What, if any, special tools did you have to have to rebuild the AW4? I have torn into a bunch of GM automatics and have mostly made all my own tools and spring compressors. Didn't see any special tools in the pictures. My AW4 has 172,000 on it, I fully intend on rebuilding it when it fails.
What, if any, special tools did you have to have to rebuild the AW4? I have torn into a bunch of GM automatics and have mostly made all my own tools and spring compressors. Didn't see any special tools in the pictures. My AW4 has 172,000 on it, I fully intend on rebuilding it when it fails.
Hook and pick set from harbor freight, snap ring pliers, C-Clamps for compressing springs, oil pump tool I showed earlier, regular screw driver, feeler gauges, dial indicator, torque wrench. Overdrive support may need a little help but it pulled right out because I've rebuilt it before. My spare transmission I used a timing gear puller to remove it.
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CobraMarty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PM me any questions
I wimped out and used 'truck'. If I did it again I would go 'hot rod'.
Yeah the 'truck' is firmer and quicker than stock but really not that hard or bad. It is more positive, but definitely not 'knock your fillings out' kind of shift.
Actually I get faster and harder shifts if I pull the trans 'kick down'/line pressure cable tighter. That makes a bigger difference. Try it, adjust it tighter.
Yeah the 'truck' is firmer and quicker than stock but really not that hard or bad. It is more positive, but definitely not 'knock your fillings out' kind of shift.
Actually I get faster and harder shifts if I pull the trans 'kick down'/line pressure cable tighter. That makes a bigger difference. Try it, adjust it tighter.
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
Shift kits don't change the rpm of the shift, what they do is "firm" up the shift. On an automatic, the factory will "slip" the transmission between gears to make the shifts smooth. Ie, they'll gradually release pressure from 1st gear clutch/band while applying pressure for 2nd gear. This gives a smooth almost unnoticeable shift. However the clutch packs/bands for both gears are slipping which wears soft parts and creates heat. When you start adding more power, this gets worse. So to keep from burning up transmissions, you have to not slip it as much, which means decreasing the amount of time for the shift. The drawback is that the shifts are very firm. If the shift is firm for truck, it will be very firm for race. Drilling holes, swapping springs, etc all increases pressure applied to the clutch, or decreases the amount of time the pressure is built up. With newer solenoid (electronic) controlled transmissions a lot of this can be done in the computer, but you still have to deliver the fluid which is why the holes are drilled, etc.
Cal: This is why I want to find a good "core" AW4, so I can do this. Not sure if I'll use raybestos clutches, but I do want a fresh trans with firmer shifting.
When I did my Honda Odyssey transmission I used an old wheel bearing race and cut "window" in it so I could pull the clutches apart in that. That was an interesting transmission. Essentially a manual transmission with clutch packs, and no planetary gear sets.
Cal: This is why I want to find a good "core" AW4, so I can do this. Not sure if I'll use raybestos clutches, but I do want a fresh trans with firmer shifting.
When I did my Honda Odyssey transmission I used an old wheel bearing race and cut "window" in it so I could pull the clutches apart in that. That was an interesting transmission. Essentially a manual transmission with clutch packs, and no planetary gear sets.
