Artec D30 XJ Truss

[sandyeggoxj]

haha. Good point. My d30 housing has about 1/2" of deflecting on the short side... And that is supposed to be the strong side.

 

[markw]

whats with all the comments on the welds? you guys act like it matters if the housing doesnt bend on a dana 30......

not like the rest of the damn thing isnt gonna fall apart if actually abused.

You didn't see me saying anything. I just wanted to stop dicking with the rubber bushings. I know the thing is a noodle. Like I said, 9/60 or 609 will be my next front axle.

 

[xDUMPTRUCKx]

You didn't see me saying anything. I just wanted to stop dicking with the rubber bushings. I know the thing is a noodle. Like I said, 9/60 or 609 will be my next front axle.

i know mark i just wanted to rouse the other douchebags from socal who were blabbering.

 

[clean4drxj]

I like the truss but would've sprayed some weld threw primer in there before installing the "bridge" part of the truss.

 

[rockclimber]

the holes are big enough, just stick a spray can in one of them and paint the whole thing.

 

[djblade311]

very nice mark. I considered Johnny joints for mine but have heard that they do have a binding point and you loose a little movement. not sure if its true or not but I have the same problem where my rubber bushing on the top of the diff keeps getting fuggered up

 

[clean4drxj]

the holes are big enough, just stick a spray can in one of them and paint the whole thing.

That may work for CA but deff not for the NE weatherterrain..

 

[markw]

Charles has the currie Johnny joint kit and it's worked well for him for years. The bushings would start walking on mine and you can't really weld them in without melting the rubber, so I'd just do a tack weld. We took our time installing this and had it done in a couple hours. Of course the axle was already out of the jeep. Next on my list is steering. I don't like the vagueness of the inverted T 1 ton setup, thinking I might go heims, or WJ if I could get 15" wheels to fit.

Yes, the holes were big enough, etching primer and semi gloss black is already done. It's not like we get rust in socal.

 

[jeeperjohn]

I have had to tack weld the rubber bushing cups to my upper arm mounts too. I want to install some joints when I build my next D30. I like this truss but I am kinda poor so I will probably build another one like the one I have for my new axle. It will be kind of a frankenaxle but will be better built than the one I have now. It will have mostly, if not all, custom fabbed brackets.

 

[themauler]

Bringing up an old thread. Question for the OP. I have been eye balling a truss of some sort for my HP dana 30. I am very capable of welding and do all my own fab. I am aware of the warping that may occur on the tubes and cause deflection as well. Did you do section by section letting welds cool in between or did you just go for it?

TIA

 

[clean4drxj]

Bringing up an old thread. Question for the OP. I have been eye balling a truss of some sort for my HP dana 30. I am very capable of welding and do all my own fab. I am aware of the warping that may occur on the tubes and cause deflection as well. Did you do section by section letting welds cool in between or did you just go for it?

TIA

you need to "stitch weld" on the tubes

 

[rockclimber]

you need to "stitch weld" on the tubes

stitch welding implies leaving gaps. its commonly done to thin sheet metal to prevent cracking

that's not what you want.


what you want is what he asked about, weld a section, let it cool. then continue.

eventually, you want everything welded.

 

[sidewaysstarion]

Mine was welded in stages and allowed to cool and there was no warping of the tube.

 

[markw]

I moved around on it when I did it. Welded a spot went to the opposite end/side of the tube, etc. No problems.

 

[clean4drxj]

stitch welding implies leaving gaps. its commonly done to thin sheet metal to prevent cracking

that's not what you want.


what you want is what he asked about, weld a section, let it cool. then continue.

eventually, you want everything welded.

assgas:

 

[rockclimber]

assgas:

I'm sorry you don't know what the **** you are talking about.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Why not just stitch? A stitch weld has less HAZ. A big long continuous weld, even if you let it completely cool between each small weld, will have a continuous HAZ. How is that a good thing? The artec truss connection to the tube is essentially a stitch because of the gaps. So no worries there.

 

[rockclimber]

Why not just stitch? A stitch weld has less HAZ. A big long continuous weld, even if you let it completely cool between each small weld, will have a continuous HAZ. How is that a good thing? The artec truss connection to the tube is essentially a stitch because of the gaps. So no worries there.

its not a stitch weld. a stitch weld implies leaving a gap in between short beads. that is what is done on sheet metal to prevent cracking. the metals are thick enough here that is not an issue.

you should not be leaving gaps. artec has designed their truss with gaps in it, its probably a good idea since it will prevent someone from running a single bead all at once and risking warping the tube.

anywhere that can be fully welded should.

the method most commonly used is called back-stepping.

 

[dean423]

Just stitched mine on,with claton lg came out good.

 

[rockclimber]

finally put mine on. I do plan on welding a second pass on the Dif. also, I ran out of time, so the top edge where the 1/4" meets the 10ga isn't fully welded, but thats easy enough to get to without pulling the axle.



re-used the Currie upper kit I already had. just cut it down, beveled the edge and burned.