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Anyone replaced pinion seals?

ZacSquatch said:
Last time I tried to remove mine... I just ended up spinning the tires

haha, a "Spanner Wrench" or a simple monkey wrench big enough to grab the yoke and wedge against the leaf springs would work just fine and prevent the tires spinning.
 
waxer said:
haha, a "Spanner Wrench" or a simple monkey wrench big enough to grab the yoke and wedge against the leaf springs would work just fine and prevent the tires spinning.

Leaf springs? Coils maybe? ahah
 
ZacSquatch said:
Leaf springs? Coils maybe? ahah

haha, coils, leaves, exhaust, whatever is solid that you can put it against.

I had to use a cheater pipe on the end of my monkey wrench so it would reach the ground while doing the pinion preload on my d44. It worked!! :)
 
I hate to say it but the counting threads is not the way to do it correctly. You may get it to work, but the "professional" method is to measure the rotational preload, R&R the seal, then tighten the nut until you reach the same preload you had before, plus 3in/lbs. The additional preload will drop after a very short drive time. I know a lot of experienced mechanics that do axles all the time. They have a "calibrated" touch. They can feel the preload and then reset it to the correct preload without having a beam torque wrench.

The nice thing about using the beam torque wrench is that it works just as well with shims or crush sleeves.
 
old_man said:
I hate to say it but the counting threads is not the way to do it correctly. You may get it to work, but the "professional" method is to measure the rotational preload, R&R the seal, then tighten the nut until you reach the same preload you had before, plus 3in/lbs. The additional preload will drop after a very short drive time. I know a lot of experienced mechanics that do axles all the time. They have a "calibrated" touch. They can feel the preload and then reset it to the correct preload without having a beam torque wrench.

The nice thing about using the beam torque wrench is that it works just as well with shims or crush sleeves.

Well like RCP stated above, this requires additional steps that might be out of the OP's league. Which is removing the axleshafts and carrier.

But I completely understand your point in how it's done correctly.
 
Interestingly enough, the Haynes manual says you can check the pinion preload without disassembling the differential. :)

Well we all know how thorough Haynes manuals are.

Doing it that way you surely are measuring not only pinion preload, but carrier preload as well as friction between the carrier and pinion gears. Not a true measurement of just pinion preload. But I get what they are saying about seeing what you have before and then adding 5 Inch pounds afterward.
 
The important thing is to get a before and after preload measurement, it doesnt matter if you pull the carrier, the axles, the tires or not as long as you do it the same and accurately both times. The FSM also says you dont have to disassemble the diff.
If measuring preload is out of the OP league, then this repair is out of his league. Theres a reason shops can charge over $200 for a 20 minute job, because most people either dont have the knowledge or the tools to do it.

waxer, If you used pinion nut torque to get the preload on your D44, I got some news, pinion nut torque has nothing to do with pinion preload in a D44, thats a shimmed pinion.
 
Ray H said:
waxer, If you used pinion nut torque to get the preload on your D44, I got some news, pinion nut torque has nothing to do with pinion preload in a D44, thats a shimmed pinion.

Yes I know, and no I did not. :)

.040 behind the inner bearing race
.057 underneath the outer bearing
Both allowed me to get 19 IN/lbs for the d44 pinion preload.
 
I think the guy should take it to a shop and have it done... He is going to mess up the crush sleeve and possibly over torque it and cause failure to the pinion bearings.. Sorry no offense but not a job for the less skilled... Oh get a good gear shop to set you up with a collar spacer & shims to set preload and ditch the crush sleeve... Just my $.02
 
I have to agree with Clean-RC. I botched a pinion seal replacement once and had the pinion gear shift and lock up the gears on a freeway offramp. I'm not exactly new with a wrench either..


As it happens, Clean-RC was the one who fixed that botched rear end, so I really have to second myself in agreeing with him. :)
 
alright, well i'll look into what good (inexpensive) mechanics are in the raleigh area.
 
Clean-RC said:
I think the guy should take it to a shop and have it done... He is going to mess up the crush sleeve and possibly over torque it and cause failure to the pinion bearings.. Sorry no offense but not a job for the less skilled... Oh get a good gear shop to set you up with a collar spacer & shims to set preload and ditch the crush sleeve... Just my $.02
That would be GREAT if you know someone that sells a collar for the LP D30!
 
I used the count-the-thread method on my tj numerous times and it never seized up or blew. You just have to be patient and count the revolutions and put it back the exact same way. It's not the "proper" way but it works just as well. Two years after the last pinion change and the jeep's still rolling fine.
 
RCP Phx said:
That would be GREAT if you know someone that sells a collar for the LP D30!

Its not that hard to make with some Chromoly tubing and D30 pinion shims... Just need a lathe to square up the piece of steel before setting it up..
 
The "mark the nut/count threads" method only works if the preload is right to begin with, and the bearings are all in great shape.

I'd put money on those pinion bearings being bad/loose already.
 
waxer said:
Yes I know, and no I did not. :)

.040 behind the inner bearing race
.057 underneath the outer bearing
Both allowed me to get 19 IN/lbs for the d44 pinion preload.

The .040 you put behind the inner race sets the pinion depth, it has nothing to do with the pinion bearing preload.
 
DaffyXJ said:
it has nothing to do with the pinion bearing preload.

It has plenty to do with pinion bearing preload.

It does affect pinion preload if you don't adjust the outer bearing shims to match while you are adjusting the pinion depth, which is why I added that measurement to my statement.

Thanks
 
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