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any one divorced?

The 1.86 ratio is perfect for someone running 6.17 axle gears. Mud, snow, sand use the higher low range. He is going to run this as a doubler, so he'll still have 2.72 to one and 5.06 to one options. It is a gear driven case (stronger than chain driven), and it can be twin sticked (front digs). I've been considering the same sort of doubler myself, but have yet to find a 24 or a 205 at a good price. Yes the 205 is a stronger option, but also weighs a ton. I never understood all the guys running 203-205 doublers, as you have 2 low ranges that are the same, and then 1 compound low. This setup gives you 3 very different low ranges to work with.
 
Cal's right the 24 is a bad option for it's weight your better off with a 205 even though it weighs more. It weighs more because everything is bigger, yokes, bearings, gears, shafts, which makes everything stronger. I have both a Ford 205 Divorced and married models in the garage which I won't sell as well as a C4 Dana 20. Next to them is a 1356 attached to a AOD auto 302 Ford for my Scout 300 which will get the Dana 20 also. Ditto as well on the info. of the intermediate shafts and they do need to be pretty evenly lined up the shorter you go! If you insist you can find real short shorties on old Jet boats with Jacuzzi or same style jets. Seems like a lot of work when other combinations are available, easier install and proven, like the 231/Jeep Dana 300 combo which is twin stick able. The 231 /1356. The Behemouth 1356 to 205 or Dana 20. The 231/NP205. The 231/Ford Dana 20 and you already know the 203/205. It's all been done believe me you won't be the first if your looking for notoriety! The coupled are stronger and less maintenance due to less moving parts. But if you insist you''d be smart to leave the 24 out of it due to parts availability!
 
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The 24 I believe is like the 20 in size but not exactly it does not have the ratio the Ford 20 does or the obvious mounting surface. They were bad because they would buck under heavy loads unless they were supported by a kicker rod like the 205 divorce were later. The 24's were strong but only had a 1.86 low. The Broncos had 2 same made 20 t-cases. One was a J shift pattern and one was the T model. The T model had 2.63 low range. They were both Ford mated 20's , don't quote me, I'd have to dig mine out, but the J model is 2.46 and newer models were lowered to 2.34 because of the V8's and also 44 axle upgrades. That is why Jeep people would try to find Ford 20's for their lower gear. The early Jeep t-cases were 18 replaced by the 20's. Jeep 20's were high geared in the Jeep version. I believe they were 1.96 & or 2.03. Doesn't seem like much till you put them side by side and crawl. The 24's are old poorly geared and the 20's had a lot of upgrades done to them, like the gears. The 20 is very simply twin stuck or stick how ever you want to stick it or stuck it? You can find out best by contacting I believe Terra Low or someone like Wild Horses that make the Dana 20 lower gears and if the parts are interchangeable between the 20 & 24 then I'm wrong!!! Which reminds me the 205 I believe is 1.96 Chevy 2.01 Ford. Back in the day I had several Fords and built a divorced 205 Turbo 400, turbo charged 454 on 44's mudders that smoked the tires and never had issues of course it was a 14 bolt rear and 60 front.
 
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Napa and car quest both still carry rebuild kits for this case. $129.99 . They have plenty in the ware house they say and more than one vendor for the parts.

I would. Go for a 205 but i have this case. If it fails ill move up to the 205. I like my low range options. Low lower and super low gear this 24 case is fairly stout. I think snow and some summer trail use will be fine. I dont rock crawl yet.

Every one gets a abit carried away with oh that will break or thats not the beefyest part. Well if you wheel your rig it may break. If you budget in certain parts dont get throttle happy and say the part was shit. It was your driving that broke it or your lack of attention or lack of maintenance. Im not building a hammer truck. Just a slow easy goin snow rig :) ill leave the rock crawlin to you gents with the $ to play like that :D
 
So the tires i ordered are on back order for a while :/ odd size i guess

So if you were gonna buy a 38-40 inch tire what would you get. For a bit more money i could get pit bull rockers or mad doggs. Rather than the swampers i had wanted. Or i could go cheap get the 40 Yokohama mtrs and get a few hundred bucks back towards a locker or some thin. I dunno what to tell emm to get instead.
 
Oxen__ said:
Napa and car quest both still carry rebuild kits for this case. $129.99 . They have plenty in the ware house they say and more than one vendor for the parts.

I would. Go for a 205 but i have this case. If it fails ill move up to the 205. I like my low range options. Low lower and super low gear this 24 case is fairly stout. I think snow and some summer trail use will be fine. I dont rock crawl yet.

Every one gets a abit carried away with oh that will break or thats not the beefyest part. Well if you wheel your rig it may break. If you budget in certain parts dont get throttle happy and say the part was shit. It was your driving that broke it or your lack of attention or lack of maintenance. Im not building a hammer truck. Just a slow easy goin snow rig :) ill leave the rock crawlin to you gents with the $ to play like that :D
Click to expand...

I get you, but you don't really need the crawl box then for snow! Your t-case low should be sufficient! For 40's you'll need diff gearing not t-case gearing, unless its an Offroad only vehicle and you drive with the low range engaged at all times.
 
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As the op posted and I pointed out, he's running 6.17 gears. The 1.86 ratio by itself would be better for snow than the 2.72 in the 231. The higher low range in the case of doubling a 231 seems far more benificial than a 231-231 doubler or a 203-205 as you get 3 truly different low ranges.
 
I actualy remember ready about the 6.12 but it skipped my mind, sorry about that OP. That fact still stands and with even more foundation that a dblr would not be needed for snow! Hell the snow would melt down to the bare trail before he would move a foot with that much gearing! I have a 231/300 on wide 36's with 4.56 and its good. I haven't done the math but he will be well below me.
 
Sorry 6.17. Did the math and his crawl ratio will be 87 with an AW4 auto 231/24 dblr. Mine is 91 AW4 231/300 dblr. I am lower but 2 things he needs to consider. 1) He is going thru the cost & hassle of the dblr simplify it and go with a married unit for driveshaft angle, less moving (U) joints, better t-case and available replacements. 2) He said its for snow so he really won't need the dblr!
 
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So i think im just gonna go with some 38 inch swampers. And sell my gears for a set that will make all three t case speeds a bit more use able. I am gonna call the company monday after i refigure my gears and see if i can exchange emm. I havent even opened the boxes yet.
 
I sold the d24 case and got a np202. This case is from an international. Thing is hudge compaired to the dana 24. Ill will have to get a side by side comparison pic.
 
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