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Well I successfully blew a fuse with that maneuver. I think I'm done. Time to take it to a shop. I'll let you know what the verdict is. Thanks for the help!
Had the same problem Monday on my 2000.
Replaced the battery and the problem disappeared - despite the battery testing perfectly, including a load test.
Went for a heavy duty unit with the largest rating in the same physical size.
The guy at Deltec said it was possible for batteries to deteriorate to the point where they can't supply sufficient current despite voltage being within norms and passing load test.
Mine is off to a dealership to be run on their scanner. My family friend who's the service manager at the shop suspects the ECM. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Well I successfully blew a fuse with that maneuver. I think I'm done. Time to take it to a shop. I'll let you know what the verdict is. Thanks for the help!
Of course the fuse blew....; the 12V+ for the relays coil shorted to 12V- for the relays coil.
You should have jumped the terminals that relay pins 87 and 30 plug into.... to bypass the relay for testing purposes only.
Mine is off to a dealership to be run on their scanner. My family friend who's the service manager at the shop suspects the ECM. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Since the fuel pump comes on, but no spark and probably no injector pulse; I am taking bets on the Camshaft Postion Sensor inside the distributor. It controls the pulse of the injectors and spark for the plugs by determining which cylinder to fire.
In the FWIW category, the fuel pump in my '93 has never primed for more than a second, if that. Three seconds is a looong time -- you can move a lot of gas in three seconds.
Since the fuel pump comes on, but no spark and probably no injector pulse; I am taking bets on the Camshaft Postion Sensor inside the distributor. It controls the pulse of the injectors and spark for the plugs by determining which cylinder to fire.
X2, also hope you kept the old CPS, it'll make a good spare (assuming it isn't dead and you didn't have two failures simultaneously.) Once you get it running again I would throw the old CPS back in and see if it works, if it does, then keep the new one as a spare instead.
At this point it's got to be wiring harness/relays/fuses, ECU, or cam position sensor basically (I guess it could be your coil, as well - did you test that?) An ECU at the junkyard can be had for 50 bucks or so, cam position sensors are fairly cheap as well. After those have been tried you get to play with a DMM till you figure out what's screwed up in your wiring harness.