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adding aux in-line to stock stereo?

So I got a bit of work done on this project tonight.

Opening up the 97+ stereo is not that bad, it just takes a torx driver. Remove the 4 torx screws holding the front cover on (don't try to force it off) as well as the 4 along the top and bottom edges of the back side of the case. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully separate the front cover from the unit, pull it out, and disconnect the ribbon cable from the board at the top of the stereo. You should be able to lift out the frame and bottom cover of the stereo now; this has the cassette tape deck connected to it, which is plugged into the circuit board in the main portion of the stereo. Press the two retention clips at the ends of the connector down and away from the center of the connector and it should push it out.

I am currently working on reverse engineering the small circuit board mounted to the back of the cover that has the cassette tape deck bolted to it. I have a partial pinout for the 16 pin connector on the grey ribbon cable leading from the cassette tape deck to the main circuit board; when I have a bit more info I will update this post and then call it a night. I would be much further along but for once (they are usually one of the easiest companies to deal with) Phillips/NXP did a terrible job of publishing datasheets, their TDA3612 cassette tape deck controller chip is obsolete and I cannot find a good datasheet anywhere so I am using a lousy quality schematic of a similar circuit based on the TDA3611 to draw as many conclusions as I can. Fortunately the TEA0675 Dolby Digital Noise Reduction chip (which handles the audio signal preprocessing) is much better documented so the audio half of the circuit is simpler to figure out.

Pin-out, as it currently stands:
(red stripe edge of cable is pin 1, connector has pin 1 on the side opposite the small polarizing notches, all odd pins are on one row and all even pins are on the other)
anything marked ??? is one I haven't figured out quite yet.
1 ground
2 ground
3 ??? - something to do with the audio side of things)
4 ??? - 10k resistor to AMS output, connects directly to a pin on the tape read head (audio side)
5 12V (unknown if this is regulated or straight automotive 12-15V unregulated, at this point)
6 audio side power? (unknown if regulated or not, voltage unknown)
7 goes to a wafer switch within the tape deck mechanical assembly. Not sure what this is, but probably for auto-detection of end-of-tape and switching to other track.
8 ??? - something to do with audio side voltage regulation, I believe, but I am not sure yet.
9 audio channel A (whether A is left or right is unknown at this point, whether this is line level or requires preamp to line level is unknown)
10 audio channel B (see pin 9)
11 audio side ground? (not sure if this is common ground with the other grounds listed above yet)
12 data bus select/enable (for controlling motor/deck direction shift mechanism via TDA3612, bus protocol is probably SPI but I'm not sure, no idea what commands the TDA3612 understands either)
13 data bus clock (see pin 12)
14 data bus data (see pin 12)
15 ??? - something to do with AMS output circuit on pin 4
16 ??? - something to do with headswitch input control on TEA0675. This effectively sets which side of the tape is being listened to, I believe.

If I can figure out the levels on the audio channels (not difficult) and the bus protocol and command set for the 3 wire bus controlling the TDA3612, it should be possible for a suitably motivated nerd to design an iPod dock module that will plug directly into the stock radio instead of the cassette deck, and allow control via the stock buttons on the radio.

... now to put it back together temporarily so I can listen to the radio on my way to work tomorrow :eyes:
 
Last edited:
So I got a bit of work done on this project tonight.

Opening up the 97+ stereo is not that bad, it just takes a torx driver. Remove the 4 torx screws holding the front cover on (don't try to force it off) as well as the 4 along the top and bottom edges of the back side of the case. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully separate the front cover from the unit, pull it out, and disconnect the ribbon cable from the board at the top of the stereo. You should be able to lift out the frame and bottom cover of the stereo now; this has the cassette tape deck connected to it, which is plugged into the circuit board in the main portion of the stereo. Press the two retention clips at the ends of the connector down and away from the center of the connector and it should push it out.

I am currently working on reverse engineering the small circuit board mounted to the back of the cover that has the cassette tape deck bolted to it. I have a partial pinout for the 16 pin connector on the grey ribbon cable leading from the cassette tape deck to the main circuit board; when I have a bit more info I will update this post and then call it a night. I would be much further along but for once (they are usually one of the easiest companies to deal with) Phillips/NXP did a terrible job of publishing datasheets, their TDA3612 cassette tape deck controller chip is obsolete and I cannot find a good datasheet anywhere so I am using a lousy quality schematic of a similar circuit based on the TDA3611 to draw as many conclusions as I can. Fortunately the TEA0675 Dolby Digital Noise Reduction chip (which handles the audio signal preprocessing) is much better documented so the audio half of the circuit is simpler to figure out.

Pin-out, as it currently stands:
(red stripe edge of cable is pin 1, connector has pin 1 on the side opposite the small polarizing notches, all odd pins are on one row and all even pins are on the other)
anything marked ??? is one I haven't figured out quite yet.
1 ground
2 ground
3 ??? - something to do with the audio side of things)
4 ??? - 10k resistor to AMS output, connects directly to a pin on the tape read head (audio side)
5 12V (unknown if this is regulated or straight automotive 12-15V unregulated, at this point)
6 audio side power? (unknown if regulated or not, voltage unknown)
7 goes to a wafer switch within the tape deck mechanical assembly. Not sure what this is, but probably for auto-detection of end-of-tape and switching to other track.
8 ??? - something to do with audio side voltage regulation, I believe, but I am not sure yet.
9 audio channel A (whether A is left or right is unknown at this point, whether this is line level or requires preamp to line level is unknown)
10 audio channel B (see pin 9)
11 audio side ground? (not sure if this is common ground with the other grounds listed above yet)
12 data bus select/enable (for controlling motor/deck direction shift mechanism via TDA3612, bus protocol is probably SPI but I'm not sure, no idea what commands the TDA3612 understands either)
13 data bus clock (see pin 12)
14 data bus data (see pin 12)
15 ??? - something to do with AMS output circuit on pin 4
16 ??? - something to do with headswitch input control on TEA0675. This effectively sets which side of the tape is being listened to, I believe.

If I can figure out the levels on the audio channels (not difficult) and the bus protocol and command set for the 3 wire bus controlling the TDA3612, it should be possible for a suitably motivated nerd to design an iPod dock module that will plug directly into the stock radio instead of the cassette deck, and allow control via the stock buttons on the radio.

... now to put it back together temporarily so I can listen to the radio on my way to work tomorrow :eyes:

Any updates to your progress?
 
Not really... been too busy working on my house :(

Will hopefully have some time some evening this week, not sure when.
 
Did anyone get a 3.5mm audio input working with the stock head unit in their XJ? As previously mentioned, I too like the bare bones look of the stock am/fm radio in my 97 and don't want an aftermarket unit. Ideally, I would drill a small hole and just have a small input on the dash or radio bezel somewhere. I'm posting to get some help from the community about if that's going to be possible or not in my situation. This is what my stock head unit looks like, note there is no "mode" button to enable the AUX input:

2012-06-09_20-58-13_234.jpg


Years ago I had a 10 disc cd changer plugged into the back of this stock unit either using the red/white RCA cables, or maybe the radio antennae bypass, but I forget how I enabled the aux input to use the CD changer at that time. It must have used an FM modulator of some kind... ...I am not sure how I would have turned on the AUX input any other way!? I took out that CD changer a long time ago and forget how it worked.

Here's what I've researched so far about these 3.5mm inputs and stock jeep radios:

If the head unit supports an aux mode toggle button, this bulky cigarette lighter option exists.
http://www.incarconnections.co.uk/i...o-3-5mm-jack-plug-car-aux-input-ct29ax07.html

I would prefer a smaller profile input, the more bare bones look, so maybe something like this instead:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003B01AHS/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

In this write up, the stock Jeep head unit is more fancy (cd) compared to my am/fm, and requires some kind of intermediate module:
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forum...4-JEEP-stock-head-unit-AUX-input-installation
 
Not really... been too busy working on my house :(

Will hopefully have some time some evening this week, not sure when.

*eyes calendar*

Yeah, that didn't happen I guess. I don't even own that jeep or that stereo anymore. Whoops :wow:
 
lol. well man, just since you know stuffs, what is your opinion? i guess i might just wait it out until theres some clean looking head unit that has awesome android interoperability, blue tooth, etc. seems like i spent an hour last night checking out head units and it's still "the 80s" or maybe "the late 90s" when it comes to sensible clean design. i.e. doesn't exist in aftermarket single din head units.
 
lol. well man, just since you know stuffs, what is your opinion? i guess i might just wait it out until theres some clean looking head unit that has awesome android interoperability, blue tooth, etc. seems like i spent an hour last night checking out head units and it's still "the 80s" or maybe "the late 90s" when it comes to sensible clean design. i.e. doesn't exist in aftermarket single din head units.

I know very little these days, in fact I had actually forgotten I even started working on the stuff I said in this thread :looney:

There is a third category as well, "made in china by some fly by night company, works for anywhere from 0 to 30 days after install at which point it freaks out or dies completely, sold on alibaba, ebay, or amazon for suspiciously low prices" which I almost fell for till I read the product reviews :eek:
 
You could make your own "adapter" for a single din unit. You could modify your dash for a double din, it has been done you can search it.
Or you can find one that has a small cubby hole that looks cleaner than most of the other adapter units.
 
thanks everyone. i really don't want an aftermarket unit because they look so ugly. that's why i'd love to figure out how to have a simple single 3.5mm input that somehow connects to the factory radio aux. maybe there's a stock head unit i can switch in that has a proper aux, since i don't think mine does.
 
What I ended up doing (that radio died before I got around to modifying it, then I replaced it with an OEM CD player that died, then gave up and put another cheap OEM tape deck in) was buy an inline RF modulator for the antenna. Much better audio quality than the little RF transmitter units, fairly cheap, and you just plug it inline with the antenna cable behind the radio and run a power wire and the audio input to it.

Make sure you fuse it so if it overloads it'll blow the fuse instead of starting a fire in your dashboard.
 
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