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Accidentally supplied 24V to 95 XJ

Green Mesa XJ said:
No I'd leave those empty. Must be the fuse box in the engine bay they are talking about
Click to expand...

Ahh, yeah you're right. That's the Fuse Block on the inside and the Power Distribution Center in the engine bay.

So on page 621 is says that F11 and F6 are relevant too. I know I've checked all those fuses though. I know that the 60A F6 was blown and I replaced it. I'll replace F11 (15A) and F13 (15A) anyways since they're super cheap.

Capture.jpg
 
I did a bunch of continuity and voltage checking today. I have a questions:
- Is the PCM right next to the air box. It sure looked like the right thing to me, but the service manual said it should have been by the firewall... Anyways, I used that connector to do most testing and it seemed to be doing what it should.

Anyways, I tested the brake switch, the cruise control servo, vacuum, cruise control switch, and they were all good. Then I switched to the pins at the PCM connector and started getting some goofy things. I would definitely get voltage fluctuation where I should have it, but everything should be reading either 12V or 0V depending on what I was doing. Instead I was getting some 12V and 0V, but I was also getting some at like 5-6V and then when I'd hit buttons that should have brought it down to 0V, it would only drop like .3V's lower (so nowhere near 0V). Then the clock spring started smoking...
I cannot imagine a reason for it to short out unless it was sold to me defective in the first place. Any thoughts? I'm reaching out to 4WheelParts right now to try and get it warrantied out, but they specifically say they don't warranty electrical parts... Which sounds like BS.

I hooked up my old clock spring and it didn't smoke, but it is definitely warped. I decided to take it apart to see the insides anyways. It definitely got fried! All the wires are melted together.
It's too bad that they go straight to the PCM without a fuse I can find.

0219171344_zpsz9dyvj7c.jpg
 
I think that FSM also had a 96 or at least seemed start to cover the newer 96 up. I thought the PCM was on the fender behind the air box until at least 95. Maybe the 97 up changed location. I pretty sure the Grand Cherokees did but that was also a new body style.

So the new clock spring shorted out during testing? What the hell?!
Not sure about the PCM connector testing on the XJ, did limited testing on a old Toyota which was straight forward.

Edit: if the new clock spring was bad it might explain everything including the cruise control.



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Green Mesa XJ said:
I think that FSM also had a 96 or at least seemed start to cover the newer 96 up. I thought the PCM was on the fender behind the air box until at least 95. Maybe the 97 up changed location. I pretty sure the Grand Cherokees did but that was also a new body style.

So the new clock spring shorted out during testing? What the hell?!
Not sure about the PCM connector testing on the XJ, did limited testing on a old Toyota which was straight forward.

Edit: if the new clock spring was bad it might explain everything including the cruise control.
Click to expand...

I had a 93 grand chero and it was definitely on the firewall, but it's definitely on the fender next to the air box on the 95 XJ's.

I cannot thing of a way that the clock spring would have shorted out and melted unless it was defective from the start. This could be the whole issue. Hopefully I can get it exchanged for free and that'll fix my final issue!
 
CorneliusRox said:
I did a bunch of continuity and voltage checking today. I have a questions:
- Is the PCM right next to the air box. It sure looked like the right thing to me, but the service manual said it should have been by the firewall... Anyways, I used that connector to do most testing and it seemed to be doing what it should.

Anyways, I tested the brake switch, the cruise control servo, vacuum, cruise control switch, and they were all good. Then I switched to the pins at the PCM connector and started getting some goofy things. I would definitely get voltage fluctuation where I should have it, but everything should be reading either 12V or 0V depending on what I was doing. Instead I was getting some 12V and 0V, but I was also getting some at like 5-6V and then when I'd hit buttons that should have brought it down to 0V, it would only drop like .3V's lower (so nowhere near 0V). Then the clock spring started smoking...
I cannot imagine a reason for it to short out unless it was sold to me defective in the first place. Any thoughts? I'm reaching out to 4WheelParts right now to try and get it warrantied out, but they specifically say they don't warranty electrical parts... Which sounds like BS.

I hooked up my old clock spring and it didn't smoke, but it is definitely warped. I decided to take it apart to see the insides anyways. It definitely got fried! All the wires are melted together.
It's too bad that they go straight to the PCM without a fuse I can find.

0219171344_zpsz9dyvj7c.jpg
Click to expand...

the YJ has the PCM on the firewall the XJ was next to the air box. 8D-5 Fig 12
 
I must have scrolled to the wrong page then.

I'm thinking about making a jumper at the PCM (with a fuse), so I can supply 12V power to pin 48 and 49, then momentarily remove 48. This should bypass the wiring harness, clock spring, and cruise buttons. I could then see if the PCM would control the solenoid while driving and would confirm again that the brake light switch works as well.
Any recommendations on what size fuse to use? I am thinking the smallest I can find would work the best.
 
So I built a jumper setup to try and see if I could get cruise to work. The idea was to test things in a different manor. Turns out I've got one of two issues right now, either a short in the wiring harness, or a diode that's gone bad in the PCM.
I drove into work and as soon as I'd hook up 12V pos to the 'Cruise-On' circuit, it'd blow a fuse. It blew 2A, 5A, and 15A fuses instantly.
On the way home, I'm going to cut the Pin 48 cable off the wiring harness and test again. This will tell me if it's the harness or the PCM.
I'm kind of leaning towards the PCM since it fried the clock spring, but this will be a good way to make sure.

Here's a picture of my nifty jumper setup. Then wires run into the cab so I can touch them together to work as a switch.

0220171802_zpspv1ji5cg.jpg


Also, I noticed I only have one speed on the wipers. Anyone know if there's a replay that controls speed, or if this is a PCM thing, or if it's part of the malti-control stalk unit?
 
does it just stop when switched to high? or continues to work on low? did you remove the factory wiring or just splice into it with your test? i think the ecu is lathered in a gel so fixing a diode may be a PITA.
 
It just does one speed even in high mode.

Also, I just spliced in. That's why it could be a short, since I had to supply 12V pos, if the wiring harness has grounded on something, it'd definitely blow my fuse.
I'll cut the harness on the way home (if it's not raining), and see if that works. If it does, then I need to tear the dash apart again and look for a shorted wire in the harness... Or just replace that wire which would be way easier.
 
Yeah, previously they had low speed intermittent, up to low speed always on, then click on further to high speed always on.

I hadn't noticed before because it hadn't rained... I'm thinking I might find more things as the seasons progress.
 
there is a intermittent wiper module under the drivers side dash. its a black box with connectors on either end. if you remove the box and connect the connectors together it will not run on intermittent but will run on low and high. that will eliminate the box. other than that its switch or motor.
 
Yep, I had to remove that intermittent box in my 85, it failed thousands of mikes from home and rain was turning to snow. Kmart parking lot fix. Pulled the module out and plugged the ends of the harness into each other.

I wouldnt be surprised if that box burnt out, they fail on their own for no apparent reason.
I've done all kinds of things to my wiper system motors, linkage, new interment control boxes still have slowish speed in all our xj.


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Last edited:
Jeep part# 56006957ab
No longer made or stocked as far as I know. I Think wrangler and 84-96 XJ had the same wiper module, I used to snatch them out of a junked jeep whenever I'd come across them, most didn't work. Supposedly certain year grand Cherokee can swap in but I'm not sure of those details

The module looks like this, only a strip of Velcro holding it to the knee bar dash thingy where the lower vent is.

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/rYQAAOSw4GVYOkgj/s-l300.jpg


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