AC has suddenly developed massive leak, planning full rebuild

[anthrax323]

I certainly hope so, lol. Doesn't look like a critical piece but you never know.

And yeah, I stuck with the original heater core... It was in good shape (externally) and I couldn't find a replacement that would actually fit.

 

[anthrax323]

Woot.

Got the bare essentials hooked up to charge and test the AC system, and I've finally got cold air. The system held a 28 inHg vacuum all night, which is a promising sign.

One thing that blows donkey dick though is that I now have a coolant leak. It's almost certainly the radiator (as I disturbed it, and it appears to be original equipment), and it's a very small drip that should be manageable for a week or two until I can get my hands on a new Mopar radiator. Not gonna dick with Spectra - took a look at several of their "direct fit" radiators and none were as advertised (plus they had plastic fill necks).

Oh well. At least the radiator is a relatively small repair.

 

[anthrax323]

Dammit. Things got even more interesting.

After getting most of the dash re-assembled, I now find that my running lights do not work. The lamps themselves do (as turn signals and hazards work properly), but when the headlight knob is pulled out to either position (running lights, running + headlights) the corner markers do not illuminate.

Anyone else encountered this? All body harnesses are reconnected and tightened. There's one small connector tied to the steering column (6 pins, I believe?) that I can't for the life of me find the corresponding connector for (it comes off one of the A-pillar body harnesses).

*EDIT* Confirmed that both the dash lights AND the running lights fail to illuminate. Everything I've read thus far points to it being a faulty headlight switch (it took me a few minutes to figure out how the fark to release it, and during the process I may have bent some of those spring-steel contacts). Gonna go ahead and pick one up for grins before AutoZone closes.

One other odd thing is that the CEL comes on immediately when started (after having the battery disconnected for quite a while). I don't have a scanner, so I may have to wait til it's fully driveable to go have the codes pulled.

 

[UNCC_99XJ]

Hope you got everything plugged back in behind the dash...

Last one I did we somehow managed to pop a fuse, as a whole bunch of stuff wasn't working (dash lights, headlights, overhead console...etc). Still not sure how we managed to do that....

As for the radiator, all the ones from the parts houses will fit correctly, provided you remove the top bracket from your factory radiator and transfer it over to the new one. If you don't, then none of the holes will line up.

 

[anthrax323]

Thanks for the input - I've checked all fuses, and they're all good.

Looks like every replacement headlight switch available locally is built by Wells, and is designed for a triangular knob post... The factory one is square, and none of them sell knobs that will fit. Goddammitsomuch.

Looks like I will pull the switch I have and see if I can repair it. Otherwise, I'll have to see the stealership.

 

[UNCC_99XJ]

Hit up the junkyard! LKQ I believe has a handful of late models on the lot most of the time.

 

[anthrax323]

Not sure which LKQ you go to, but the ones here never seem to have late-model XJs. Might just be my luck though, lol.

Turns out the Wells switch is indeed the correct piece, I'm just a moron. Gonna pick it up tomorrow.

Now the big hurdle is re-threading the passenger side lower dash mount. I somehow managed to cross-thread it, and am beyond pissed about it. I'm tempted to take it to a machinist to see if it can be repaired without drilling it larger... The only way I can see myself fixing it would require access to the rear of the weld-in nut (or whatever it is) to give the tap a good start.

I hate my life.

 

[anthrax323]

Looks like an M8-1.25 helicoil kit can be found just about anywhere. At least I can now sleep easy knowing I have a good repair option.

 

[UNCC_99XJ]

The only LKQ I've been to is out in between Garner and Clayton. Forget which state highway...70 maybe? Haven't been out that way in a while.

Good to hear that the switch will work though. And yes, that is a pretty popular helicoil kit. I remember keeping a good stock of them when I worked at Advance.

 

[DanMan2k06]

I shudder every time I see the word 'heli-coil'. I had to use two of them on the aluminum lower cam bearing housing on a Lexus IS350. Took about 6 different tries to get them in right and torqued to spec. This was about a year ago, and I still lose sleep over it...

Teamcherokee seems to have two heater cores, one looks aluminum and the other copper. I've heard good things about other Omix brand replacement parts, think this one would fit decently?

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/XJ_Parts/AC_and_Heating/more2.html

 

[anthrax323]

Fortunately, this hole didn't need anything near that precise... I managed to force a good M8x1.25 bolt through it most of the way (to establish an initial thread), then hit it with a tap using a small crescent wrench (not enough room for a proper tap without pulling all kinds of sh*t out). I lucked the hell out and managed to re-thread it, and applied "adequate" torque to that bolt for fear of stripping it out.

Oh well. All major problems are solved, and the pinhole radiator leak seems to have corrected itself (though a new radiator is next on the list before I move back to TX in a few weeks). My AC works far better than it has before, holds a charge, and I managed to resolve a number of squeaking/rattling issues thanks to careful step-by-step re-assembly.

Then again, only time will tell. Thanks for all you guys' input - if the heater core goes in the near future, I'll put on my kitten stomping boots and then take it to the dealership to deal with this farking BS (unless I have access to an air conditioned 2+ bay garage/shop by that point).


***EDIT***
For those of you stumbling across this thread while seeking information about your running lights/corner markings and interior lights not working (yet signals and headlights do work), please check out the following thread:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1022965

If you've tried every switch from every local auto parts store, yet none seem to work (with the exception of a few that work between knob positions), chances are you've blown the small 20A fuse in the PDC (in the engine bay) that is responsible for the running lights, as well as the bus (you might notice a code is thrown as soon as you turn the ignition to the "on" position). While looking in the engine bay and standing in front of the vehicle, the fuse of interest is immediately to the left of the bottom-right-most small blade fuse.

Oh yeah, and disconnect your battery before plugging a new headlamp/headlight switch into the harness (regardless of the position of the switch). You're almost guaranteed to blow that fuse every time.

 

[MjTjNJ]

Funny story? I had a 2001 XJ I bought in the winter on a GREAT DEAL (80K miles, check engine and airbag lights were on, and both easy fixes). Guy lied and said the a/c worked. I was dumb enough in 2* weather to not get out and check it, it "felt cold." Come June, it's hot and the compressor's not turning. I charge it up, it's cold for an hour, then compressor stops again. Massive evaporator leak. Sold the truck. Glad I did! LOL

 

[anthrax323]

Yeah, I found myself in a similar situation... Used car salespeople will lie through their teeth to get it off their lot.

That being said, now that I have the tools, and have dealt with the heinous pain in the ass in its entirety now, I'd be happy to do it on another XJ provided (A) I got it for a bargain, and (B) I could find a motherfarking heater core that actually fits. I'm still terrified that my 171,000 mile heater core is going to give out in the next year or two...

 

[boncrshr]

Good thread....I have a 2000XJ with 216K. I have an evaporator core leak, heater core is good. I have a couple of questions before I tackle this:
1) Since the heater cores don't fit...should I leave my stock one alone? I am in Houston, so bypassing it would not be a big deal for 11.5 months out of the year.
2) What is the deal with the foam? Are the seals available? Make your own?

 

[anthrax323]

Good thread....I have a 2000XJ with 216K. I have an evaporator core leak, heater core is good. I have a couple of questions before I tackle this:
1) Since the heater cores don't fit...should I leave my stock one alone? I am in Houston, so bypassing it would not be a big deal for 11.5 months out of the year.
2) What is the deal with the foam? Are the seals available? Make your own?

I'll answer your questions in order:

1) Your call. If you wouldn't mind tearing your entire interior apart again in the future (which you probably won't want to do, as I've learned), you can skip it and re-use your old core. The problem is that in late-model XJs, there is no heater valve - coolant is flowing through the heater core any time the vehicle is running. If it springs a leak, you can't just close the valve like on older vehicles. You might as well pick up a few heater cores from various stores (shooting for a copper one, not aluminum) and test fitment before deciding to re-install the original one, much like I did.

2) The only foam you can buy at the dealership is the HVAC box seal kit (seals for the cowl intake, blower motor, and evap/heater core lines). It's in the league of $40 to $60 and absolutely necessary, unless you're really good at removing and re-applying adhesive-backed foam. If additional foam is needed on your evaporator core, just use some 3/4" or 1" thick adhesive-backed foam (of the closed-cell variety - that black stuff).

Good news is my AC is still running strong almost 8 months later. Totally worth it in hindsight, even though my XJ is now being transitioned from DD into my hunting/trail rig.

Good luck, and godspeed, sir. Get some good (read: aluminum or steel) AC line disconnect tools. AutoZone's "OEM" variety were surprisingly well-built.

 

[boncrshr]

Thanks for the info and encouragement Anthrax. I picked up an OEM heater core and blower motor seal from teamcherokee.com. Now all I need is the evaporator core and a trip to home depot. Next Saturday is the target date.

 

[boncrshr]

I shudder every time I see the word 'heli-coil'. I had to use two of them on the aluminum lower cam bearing housing on a Lexus IS350. Took about 6 different tries to get them in right and torqued to spec. This was about a year ago, and I still lose sleep over it...

Teamcherokee seems to have two heater cores, one looks aluminum and the other copper. I've heard good things about other Omix brand replacement parts, think this one would fit decently?

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/XJ_Parts/AC_and_Heating/more2.html

Just saw your post....I had to use the heli-coil on my outboard block when I removed the cylinder head. I have started allowing the insert to sit overnight before putting a bolt in. The extra time for the Loctite to cure seems to cut down on my failure rate. The M8 kits will also work on the XJ front caliper bolts...don't ask me how I know this, but they are handy to keep on hand.

 

[boncrshr]

I'm done.....1/2 day Saturday and all day today. Everything seems to be functioning normally. Too tired to be excited about having AC right now. Thanks for the good thread....I printed it out and had it in the Jeep with me.