e250 semi float or e350 full float?ok back from the dead.... i am picking up one of these but it has drums, easy to put this brake set up on mine?
e250 semi float or e350 full float?ok back from the dead.... i am picking up one of these but it has drums, easy to put this brake set up on mine?
why wouldn't you run atleast a 4.88 or a 5.13 with a 37 or bigger tire?Ok so this is worth getting, I think he wants like $100 for it. Can I put an E-brake on this set up with discs?
I like 9s because they are easy to work on, everyone makes stuff for them, if I want to change something it can be done in an hour or so. Maybe I will want to wheel this one day so I can drive to the trail with 4.56s the. Put in some built centers with spools and 5:38s or something. Also waaaay lighter. Even a front 609 with mild gussets is 350lbs and the rear I think I read is like 275 or 300.
Set up on a 9 center is easy and I can do it myself with no special tools or bearing sets. I also can slowly over time build a much better axle since I can put a lot into the initial housing and re-use my chuck I have now.
Then if I sell its easier to part out.
you're not going to get an ebrake worth a damn unless you go with the newer ford backing plates, rotors, and calipers. The eldorado calipers suck balls.
If you want an easy axle to set up that is bulletproof, why not a 14 bolt? they're literally free or less than $150 most of the time. Way stronger than a 9 or 60, have more ground clearance than a d44 or 9 with a shave, and are a pretty nice width. Many come with detroits and 4.56's already. The 14 bolt is nearly as easy to set up as a 9. I got a good pattern in about 10-15 minutes. They are heavy, but i never saw that as a bad thing. lower center of gravity, and i even noticed more traction. Definitely more stable. Plus you can run stock shafts and lockers are way cheaper (except for ARB).
Sometimes the strength isn't needed. The housing on those are weak (tubes are thin).
My rear D60-1SU has been holding up just fine behind my 440 (~450HP) on 40" Creepies and a 160:1 crawl ratio with a stick.
I only put in an ARB and threw in some Yukon cut-down 35 spline shafts.
:dunno: I've just seen some housings break. Granted that's online and the housings were only 3/16 thick. Not sure what years those were on or whatever.
The ease of setup is not a big deal. I geared two D60s with my friend in a day and a half. How often are you gearing your axles?
I know why people use the 14B and I can respect the option.
when i mentioned ease of set up i meant because the pumpkin drops out and i don't have to muscle around a 400lb axle. i take out the center, clean, put in the trunk of my jetta and drive to the fully equipped machine shop to set it up where i have all the tools and abilities to properly clean as well.
when i am fabbing up the rear i can have just the stripped housing under there which is all of 80lbs, tac on all the brackets, put weight on it, test it then pull it back out to final weld everything. since this will be a floater it will be even easier with the wheels on it maybe.
my finished and installed spidertrax 609 will weigh 300lbs complete, the D60 housing i just stripped i more than that alone. i work alone most of the time and do not feel like having to deal with the housings. it's easier.
ultimately when i get rid of the jeep i can sell the axles easier and for more as i can just part them out and ship for less too.
Oh ya you're throwing a 14 bolt in there since the 8.25 isn't great.
60s better, come take this stripped 60 housing. $30