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99 up e350 dana 60 axle width

the drum backing plate brackets that are welded to the axle tubes are completely different than those for disk brakes, just so you know. you cannot just bolt on stock disk brakes without adapters and whatnot AFAIK.
 
The one I'm looking at tomorrow is from an E350 van. Full float drum.

I was planning on using the parts in a 609 build...... Get a different axle?
 
not sure why you are so set on 609's when 60's are plenty, the e350 60 us a 60 center chunk with D70 tubes spindles and hubs, you need ruffstuff d70 brackets(they need to be extended 5/16" and use e350 rotors with gm calipers
 
Ok so this is worth getting, I think he wants like $100 for it. Can I put an E-brake on this set up with discs?

I like 9s because they are easy to work on, everyone makes stuff for them, if I want to change something it can be done in an hour or so. Maybe I will want to wheel this one day so I can drive to the trail with 4.56s the. Put in some built centers with spools and 5:38s or something. Also waaaay lighter. Even a front 609 with mild gussets is 350lbs and the rear I think I read is like 275 or 300.
Set up on a 9 center is easy and I can do it myself with no special tools or bearing sets. I also can slowly over time build a much better axle since I can put a lot into the initial housing and re-use my chuck I have now.
Then if I sell its easier to part out.
 
you're not going to get an ebrake worth a damn unless you go with the newer ford backing plates, rotors, and calipers. The eldorado calipers suck balls.

If you want an easy axle to set up that is bulletproof, why not a 14 bolt? they're literally free or less than $150 most of the time. Way stronger than a 9 or 60, have more ground clearance than a d44 or 9 with a shave, and are a pretty nice width. Many come with detroits and 4.56's already. The 14 bolt is nearly as easy to set up as a 9. I got a good pattern in about 10-15 minutes. They are heavy, but i never saw that as a bad thing. lower center of gravity, and i even noticed more traction. Definitely more stable. Plus you can run stock shafts and lockers are way cheaper (except for ARB).
 
Ok so this is worth getting, I think he wants like $100 for it. Can I put an E-brake on this set up with discs?

I like 9s because they are easy to work on, everyone makes stuff for them, if I want to change something it can be done in an hour or so. Maybe I will want to wheel this one day so I can drive to the trail with 4.56s the. Put in some built centers with spools and 5:38s or something. Also waaaay lighter. Even a front 609 with mild gussets is 350lbs and the rear I think I read is like 275 or 300.
Set up on a 9 center is easy and I can do it myself with no special tools or bearing sets. I also can slowly over time build a much better axle since I can put a lot into the initial housing and re-use my chuck I have now.
Then if I sell its easier to part out.
why wouldn't you run atleast a 4.88 or a 5.13 with a 37 or bigger tire?
 
Not going higher than 4:88 to keep the RPMs lower when driving. (350hp LSx motor not 4.slow)

14 bolt is a massive boat anchor and I would still need to shorten it to 62/64 in anyway. I'm doing a 609, I want a built ford 9 rear and that's what I'm doing. I just want to make sure I'm using or starting with the right stuff.

I've been reading pirate 4x4 a lot and think ill be using the ruff stuff rear disk kit and say forget the e-brake unless I go for a caliper with the ratchet mech on it for a disc ebrake.

Has anyone here done a hydro line-lock type ebrake?
 
you're not going to get an ebrake worth a damn unless you go with the newer ford backing plates, rotors, and calipers. The eldorado calipers suck balls.

If you want an easy axle to set up that is bulletproof, why not a 14 bolt? they're literally free or less than $150 most of the time. Way stronger than a 9 or 60, have more ground clearance than a d44 or 9 with a shave, and are a pretty nice width. Many come with detroits and 4.56's already. The 14 bolt is nearly as easy to set up as a 9. I got a good pattern in about 10-15 minutes. They are heavy, but i never saw that as a bad thing. lower center of gravity, and i even noticed more traction. Definitely more stable. Plus you can run stock shafts and lockers are way cheaper (except for ARB).

Sometimes the strength isn't needed. The housing on those are weak (tubes are thin).

My rear D60-1SU has been holding up just fine behind my 440 (~450HP) on 40" Creepies and a 160:1 crawl ratio with a stick.

I only put in an ARB and threw in some Yukon cut-down 35 spline shafts.
 
Sometimes the strength isn't needed. The housing on those are weak (tubes are thin).

My rear D60-1SU has been holding up just fine behind my 440 (~450HP) on 40" Creepies and a 160:1 crawl ratio with a stick.

I only put in an ARB and threw in some Yukon cut-down 35 spline shafts.

3.375x.5" tubes are thin?

not saying the d60 isn't strong, just saying the 14 bolt is easy as hell to set up and is generally a lot cheaper. A C&C 14b would be 63-64 inches WMS-WMS iirc, so he wouldnt even have to cut it down. was just throwing the option out there.
 
:dunno: I've just seen some housings break. Granted that's online and the housings were only 3/16 thick. Not sure what years those were on or whatever.

The ease of setup is not a big deal. I geared two D60s with my friend in a day and a half. How often are you gearing your axles?

I know why people use the 14B and I can respect the option.
 
:dunno: I've just seen some housings break. Granted that's online and the housings were only 3/16 thick. Not sure what years those were on or whatever.

The ease of setup is not a big deal. I geared two D60s with my friend in a day and a half. How often are you gearing your axles?

I know why people use the 14B and I can respect the option.

ease of setup was one of his reasons for running a 9", only reason i mentioned it.
3/16" might be right for the housing itself, i dunno. seemed thicker than that when i shaved it, but it's hard to tell when the cut is at such an angle.

either way, i doubt he's going to break any of the 3 axles, unless he keeps the stock 9" third member.
 
when i mentioned ease of set up i meant because the pumpkin drops out and i don't have to muscle around a 400lb axle. i take out the center, clean, put in the trunk of my jetta and drive to the fully equipped machine shop to set it up where i have all the tools and abilities to properly clean as well.
when i am fabbing up the rear i can have just the stripped housing under there which is all of 80lbs, tac on all the brackets, put weight on it, test it then pull it back out to final weld everything. since this will be a floater it will be even easier with the wheels on it maybe.

my finished and installed spidertrax 609 will weigh 300lbs complete, the D60 housing i just stripped i more than that alone. i work alone most of the time and do not feel like having to deal with the housings. it's easier.
ultimately when i get rid of the jeep i can sell the axles easier and for more as i can just part them out and ship for less too.
 
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when i mentioned ease of set up i meant because the pumpkin drops out and i don't have to muscle around a 400lb axle. i take out the center, clean, put in the trunk of my jetta and drive to the fully equipped machine shop to set it up where i have all the tools and abilities to properly clean as well.
when i am fabbing up the rear i can have just the stripped housing under there which is all of 80lbs, tac on all the brackets, put weight on it, test it then pull it back out to final weld everything. since this will be a floater it will be even easier with the wheels on it maybe.

my finished and installed spidertrax 609 will weigh 300lbs complete, the D60 housing i just stripped i more than that alone. i work alone most of the time and do not feel like having to deal with the housings. it's easier.
ultimately when i get rid of the jeep i can sell the axles easier and for more as i can just part them out and ship for less too.

ok there is no way a stripped d60 housing weighs anywhere near 300lbs. even my 14b housing with truss and brackets isn't even close. i've moved several d60 housings around here and i carried my 14b housing from my driveway all through my house and up onto my mill and back again without putting it down, and i'm not that strong. I would say a 14b housing is about 150lbs empty, and a d60 is less than that.
 
Ok idk then, the dana 60 bible on pirate said a complete stock one is 550 or so.

The build thread on pirate of a guy who did a rear 609 said it came out assembled at like 300lbs. That was with a HI 9 and 5:38s.
Meh what ever the weights are I'm not sure, point is I like ford 9s and the almost endless possibilities on them.

I'll have to look into the rear brake options a bit more. How are the rear spindles attached on these? I'm cutting the ends off to maybe re-use them on my 9 housing.
 
Oh ya you're throwing a 14 bolt in there since the 8.25 isn't great.


60s better, come take this stripped 60 housing. $30

I'd rather start with a complete axle. 14b with disk and e brake cables is $100 for me at the junkyard. But it will be a while I have a lot that I need to finish like my stiffeners.
 
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