Appreciate your update!
What was your technique for boring the hole on the '96 rod? (Step drill or normal drill bit...what diameter did you shoot for?)
I have dug through some wiring diagrams and in the 1988 MJ diagram I found the upper two wire switch is also associated with the cruise control. Connector C251 - Cruise control clutch switch --- supposed to be a jumper in automatics -- which looks just like the 1990 XJ.
PM me with e-mail address and I will shoot the diagram I made and or the wire diagram.
Did you keep your windshield washer reservoir installed? mod to the isntallation???
I got the switch working, there is a trick to it of course. The thin part of the rod between the hole and the flat has to be .013 in order for it to work. I bored my hole on my drill press with a 5/8" (.625)(the hole is actually slightly larger than .625 but you can use a round file to open it up slightly) drill bit and then elongated the hole slightly with a round file(towards the booster side of the hole). The bushing has to be able to move back and forth some for the switch to actuate.
I have everything done with the exception of;
I had to move the wire harness above the booster(the one that goes to the wiper motor and has the washer hose and washer pump leads in it) it just did not want to fit under the booster.
So....
I need to extend the pigtail for the brake pressure switch
I need to extend both washer pump pigtails and washer hoses
Then I will bleed the system and try it out.
A couple of notes specific to the 90 model year;
I used the 90 proportioning valve and just pulled it forward so it would clear the new booster. I literally did this by hand, there was plenty of slack in the 3 brake lines to achieve this. This made it so I would only have to adapt 2 lines instead of 3.
Also, I used 19/32 brake booster hose as a patch for the purge line to the charcoal canister. I used this hose between the firewall and the booster as the hose will give without cracking, the plastic pipe was being squeezed too much. I used weather strip adhesive at both ends and glued the hose onto the pipe at the elbow and just below the MAP sensor.
The washer reservoir will fit in the stock location albeit moved forward about an inch. It clears fine. I used the 96 brake lines that wrap over the top of the MC and over to the proportioning valve.
Here are some pics of the switch;
This is the distance you need to achieve in order for the switch to operate properly.
Make sure you elongate the hole towards the booster so the bushing can slide slightly
The switch is "NO", or "normally open". Make sure before you put the booster back in that the switch is open when no pressure is applied to the bushing towards the booster and that the switch closes when the pressure is applied to the bushing.
This is what the switch should look like installed on the rod, the "open" end of the switch frame goes towards the drivers kick panel.
This is the side towards the center of the Jeep
I hope this helps answer any questions anyone might have about the stop switch and getting it to work.
Jon