96 MC/booster swapped into a 90 XJ and now no brake lights?

[bigalpha]

On the plus side, the 96 booster push-rod is the perfect length.

If you put a 97 booster in an 88, the brake pedal sits ridiculously higher. I also had issues with the brake pedal switch but finally got it going. Took a few hours. :S

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

On the plus side, the 96 booster push-rod is the perfect length.

If you put a 97 booster in an 88, the brake pedal sits ridiculously higher. I also had issues with the brake pedal switch but finally got it going. Took a few hours. :S

did you just use the same method described in this thread? any words of wisdom?

 

[bigalpha]

1. Measure twice cut once.
2. Measure exactly.
3. Use high-quality cutting instruments
4. Depending on what you're swapping, make sure you account for push-rod length. the 97booster in my 88 seriously can scratch your balls (if you have 'em).
5. Take your time.
6. Take pictures to make sure you get everything put together properly.

 

[mbennett]

Does anybody ever just change the pedal assemblfrom the donor as well? Maybe Im retarded but that seems like a simple way to avoid all of this, i think it's only 6 bolts or so holdong it on. Guess I may just have to try it.

 

[xjtrailrider]

Does anybody ever just change the pedal assemblfrom the donor as well? Maybe Im retarded but that seems like a simple way to avoid all of this, i think it's only 6 bolts or so holdong it on. Guess I may just have to try it.

Yes you could do this and I would have if my donor wasn't a manual shift.

 

[xjtrailrider]

I got it all bled today, bench bled the MC, then vacuum bled at each wheel, then let it gravity bleed for a hour or so then pressure bled it.

I have good brakes but the pedal just seems soft but does not fall off, its just soft. I was able to drive the Jeep that I used for a donor, it was a 96 light roll over with only 90k on the clock. The brakes had a much firmer feel to them in the donor Jeep. The original MC in the 90 had a better feel to the pedal than the new one does.

My entire braking system is new, new calipers/drums, pads/shoes, rotors, flex lines, wheel cylinders, hardware, you name it, its new. I plan on bleeding it again in a day or so.

Even with a soft pedal I still have better brakes than I had before so Its a step in the right direction.

 

[grimah1w]

Did the swap yesterday into my 1990 XJ. The donor MC and booster came from a 1995 XJ. The brake light switch and rod modification on the booster was pretty easy based on helpful input from Jon et al. Bored the hole to right diameter ~5/8" and once the plastic bushing fit in neatly as in the original booster rod, I knew I was headed in right direction...getting the rod end filed down was tedious but went slowly as advised and got it right, switch works just fine.

Bending/flaring brake lines was a lot more of a PIA...actually just the flaring was a PIA. I used lines from the donor 1995 XJ with braided stainless to make install easier, which it did. The flaring is technique but I am sure a higher quality tool may have made my life a little easier. As it was the HF tool ultimately worked fine, just had to get a couple of attempts in, thankfully the lines were plenty long to suffer a few more incremental cuts.

Braking much improved!

 

[RickyN29]

So I know this is an old thread, but I did the swap a long time ago...and the switch worked.

I just realized though that my brake lights haven't been coming on (thought to check when I realized Cruise Control was no longer working).

There has got to be an easier fix. Can't I swap in a simply aftermarket switch of some sort?

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

I got the idea from this pic I found over on ComancheClub...

I found the bracket on an unknown year model. I assumed it's was an HO model. All of the Renix models I looked at had an extra wire running to the booster rod mounted brake switch instead of this type bracket. It's off an auto trans model as well. It did have to be slightly modded to fit my manual pedal assembly...

...I ground off this corner and notched the opposite side corner. I also moved the switch in the opposite hole shown in the pic. I moved the mounting insert to the next hole as well. It's a little easier to see in this pic with it installed.

With the slight grinding I did the bracket slid on the pedal assembly and even lined up with an existing hole in the pedal assembly. The switch is this painless model is this one. Painless Wiring 80172 - Painless Performance Push Button Brake Light Switches - Overview - SummitRacing.com it's cheap, and it can even be ordered through AutoZone.

I did have to tweak the bracket down a little to make good contact and maintain some adjustment with the switch. Then all you do is cut off the old plug and solder on a couple of female spade connectors.

 

[RickyN29]

Awesome! That seems easy enough.

Would this be an equivalent switch?
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHSL169_0306263897

It says "Normally Open". That doesn't seem quite right to me. (I'm making a big order on Napa so I get free shipping...otherwise I would order the exact switch pictured.)

 

[RickyN29]

Another though, my Jeep already has that switch. (90 XJ auto. w/ cruise control). Can't I just splice the wires onto that one??