9 inch, 44 or 8.8

[kastein]

kastein. no. they are not all same bp. and they are c clip even in trucks.

Good to know. I'll have to remember that.

 

[in4aride]

Good to know. I'll have to remember that.

Ya if I remember right the expeditions are 5x135 (5x5.3?) and are hub centric And some of the newer trucks have a different BP as well

 

[kastein]

Ya if I remember right the expeditions are 5x135 (5x5.3?) and are hub centric And some of the newer trucks have a different BP as well

OH. We're talking about different bolt patterns. I was talking about the backing plate bolt pattern, i.e. how the disc/drum brake plates bolt on. Since he's getting chromos anyways, I don't think the wheel bolt pattern is quite as important; iirc Moser ones with custom bolt patterns (you can basically mix and match bearing seat, spline, bolt pattern, etc from any off their list) are pretty comparable price wise to standard ones off their shelf anyways.

 

[in4aride]

OHHHHH I must have mis read that. I am not sure about the backing plate bolt pattern since people we using the argument of budget building JY axles. I was furthering point that it would need custom "stuff" to be ready.

The expedition trucks have discs already. But the trucks are hit n miss if i remember right. But bolting up explorer brakes on a drum f150 axle wont work unless you pull shafts.

:thumbup:

 

[kastein]

That's what I was thinking - since someone said a lot of the trucks get their carriers torn out already, the shafts should be loose too, so slide em out (if they even got put back in) slap some exploder backing plates on and buy it. Leave the drum backing plates with the exploder the disc BPs came off of. Bam, you just got a disc brake fullwidth 8.8 housing for the same price as a drum brake one.

 

[Power73]

I dont know why... But no one has mentioned a 14b FF rear?
With a 200$ shave kit and 100$ ring gear shave, it has beter clearance then Any of the 8.8, D44, 9" etc... It is had for about 150$. Disc conversion total is about 350$. Grizzly locker is about 420$. Gears about 150 and master kit about 100$.

Its stronger then any of the above mentioned. Its very close to the right width 66-67". All you need is to get the 3/4T D44 outer stuff to make your D44 8lug. Then nicer alum 17" rims are even cheaper and easyier to find used then the 5x5.5"

how much heavier would it be? im considering a 8.8 or 9 inch but if the 14 bolt doesnt weigh WAY more i might consider it

 

[jeepfreak1020]

Nope. The stock carriers are garbage. Seen plenty here go boom on 35's (one on 33's but i think that can be blamed on the driver)

Ran a 9" with 37's that I got handed down, it had been running 37's for 6 or 7 years, only breakage ever was a bad weld causing the truss to move.
That was stock 31 spline shafts, stock carrier, and a mini spool.

Drum brakes will stop you just fine.


As far as a FW 8.8. Yes you can get them same price out here. Harder to find ones are the older trucks, but most of those are missing the carriers as a lot had the factory 'locker' and limited slip. The easier to find ones are the expedition ones. And they have and oddball bolt pattern which requires custome shafts, or spacers, again adding to the cost.

That 9 was in truggy for awhile. And lead wheeler the piss out of it and it never broke! Plus you wheeled it. And its still living in the jeep down the street from you.

I dont know why... But no one has mentioned a 14b FF rear?
With a 200$ shave kit and 100$ ring gear shave, it has beter clearance then Any of the 8.8, D44, 9" etc... It is had for about 150$. Disc conversion total is about 350$. Grizzly locker is about 420$. Gears about 150 and master kit about 100$.

Its stronger then any of the above mentioned. Its very close to the right width 66-67". All you need is to get the 3/4T D44 outer stuff to make your D44 8lug. Then nicer alum 17" rims are even cheaper and easyier to find used then the 5x5.5"

As I stated above, not a option.I already have rims for 5 on 5.5 so I would have to spend more money on new rims. Plus I already have chevy knuckles drilled with high steer arms. THats more money I will have to poor into trying to put 3/4 ton shit on. No need for all that. I want something that will match my bolt pattern. Plus the 14 bolt will be wider. Dont want the rear wider then the front.

Mostly because he in no way needs a 14b. with a 35-37 max tire size and the trails he runs it would be way overkill. and because it wasn't one of the options he asked about.

Thank you Mike! 37's will be max on this rig. May even stay on 35's once I get a buddy built later in the years. So then the 14 bolt becomes pointless and a huge rock catcher

Honestly, I'd say since you are getting chromo shafts and an ARB... pick up a fullwidth 8.8 out of a Ford truck of some sort. Doesn't matter if the shafts and carrier are gone already since you're buying aftermarket for that stuff anyways. Bolt on Explorer disc brake backing plates (they have the same bolt pattern truck to SUV, right?) before leaving the yard, they just became free. Get your chromos, gearing, ARB, diff cover, and c clip eliminator (if that's even required on truck axles) and you're done.

Oh, perches and shock mounts etc but that goes without saying on a custom rear.

As for the 14 bolt, here I was thinking he was running 5 lug (will any 5 lug wheels even fit over a 14b hub?) and I'm pretty sure he said 60/14 are right out, so no dice there.

full width 8.8's are super rare to find out here. Of all the years ive been in the yards, ive never seen a full width one. NEVER. and dont want to run spacers. Another weak point to fail.

 

[kastein]

how much heavier would it be? im considering a 8.8 or 9 inch but if the 14 bolt doesnt weigh WAY more i might consider it

450lbs or so... without brakes.

As I stated above, not a option.I already have rims for 5 on 5.5 so I would have to spend more money on new rims. Plus I already have chevy knuckles drilled with high steer arms. THats more money I will have to poor into trying to put 3/4 ton shit on. No need for all that. I want something that will match my bolt pattern. Plus the 14 bolt will be wider. Dont want the rear wider then the front.

full width 8.8's are super rare to find out here. Of all the years ive been in the yards, ive never seen a full width one. NEVER. and dont want to run spacers. Another weak point to fail.

You can put CnC/DRW hubs (iirc) on a 14 bolt and get around 64" width, only 3.5" or so wider than stock. But yeah, 8 lug and way overbuilt for your purposes, I completely agree there.

I'm surprised fullwidth 8.8s are rare. Aren't they under basically every F150 and/or F250? I know the F350s got sterling 10.25s, but I thought the 1/2 and 3/4 tons got 8.8s. Oh well, sounds like 9" or 44 is the way to go... probably 9" from the sound of it.

 

[in4aride]

There are a lot of FW 8.8's, just gotta know where to look.

 

[in4aride]

how much heavier would it be? im considering a 8.8 or 9 inch but if the 14 bolt doesnt weigh WAY more i might consider it

my 14b is a heavy heavy whore. I can lift my KP60 one side at a time to put it on stands, but the 14 I had to use a picker. Where as I can carry an 8.8 out the yard by myself.

 

[Power73]

450lbs or so... without brakes.


You can put CnC/DRW hubs (iirc) on a 14 bolt and get around 64" width, only 3.5" or so wider than stock. But yeah, 8 lug and way overbuilt for your purposes, I completely agree there.

I'm surprised fullwidth 8.8s are rare. Aren't they under basically every F150 and/or F250? I know the F350s got sterling 10.25s, but I thought the 1/2 and 3/4 tons got 8.8s. Oh well, sounds like 9" or 44 is the way to go... probably 9" from the sound of it.

wow 450lbs more? looks like the 14b is out for me

 

[Vanimal]

wow 450lbs more? looks like the 14b is out for me

total. not more.
they're probably 250lbs more than an 8.8. converting the 14 bolt to disks will save some serious lbs.

 

[kastein]

Yeah, that's total weight for the axle - I thought it was around 550 with drums, 450 without, but it seems Pirate says they weigh around 390-400lbs with drums.

I would guess an 8.8 weighs approx. 200 fully built, but I'm not entirely sure on that. Googling gives any number from 175 to 200 depending on who you trust.

Either way, no way no how is a 14bolt required in this case. That's for sure.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

As I stated above, not a option.I already have rims for 5 on 5.5 so I would have to spend more money on new rims. Plus I already have chevy knuckles drilled with high steer arms. THats more money I will have to poor into trying to put 3/4 ton shit on. No need for all that. I want something that will match my bolt pattern. Plus the 14 bolt will be wider. Dont want the rear wider then the front.

I feel like this is a moot point. Chevy knuckles can be swapped between 5, 6, and 8 lug, all depending on what stub and spindle you use.

Really, this is being over thought. Your going to run into issues with your 44 up front before a 9 or 8.8 let you down. The 8.8 being Cclip is also a none issue considering you want chromos. Ring gear strength is very similar. Take a look at ringandpinion.com and see if there is a significant difference in shaft diameter. I'd do it for you of I wasn't on my iPod. If your dead set on running 5 on 5.5, wait until you find a deal on one of these axles.

I agree with the idea that you'll be more likely to keep the 9 as the jeep progresses. Even if that's not needed, you have the advantage of the third member, and the option of a pinion guard.

With that said... I think a narrow 8.8 and spacers is a bad option.

 

[ruger81]

I dont know why... But no one has mentioned a 14b FF rear?
With a 200$ shave kit and 100$ ring gear shave, it has beter clearance then Any of the 8.8, D44, 9" etc... It is had for about 150$. Disc conversion total is about 350$. Grizzly locker is about 420$. Gears about 150 and master kit about 100$.

Its stronger then any of the above mentioned. Its very close to the right width 66-67". All you need is to get the 3/4T D44 outer stuff to make your D44 8lug. Then nicer alum 17" rims are even cheaper and easyier to find used then the 5x5.5"

so for abuot 1600$ you could have the rear end with stock shafts not including new drive line ... total fail. 8.8 d44 and a 9in can be build for cheaper and be strong enough .

 

[ruger81]

So im at point of trying to find my rear axle for my build. My front is a full width HP 44 out of 77 F150. Will be built the the hills and about 68 wms to wms. My question is what should I run for the rear? I Will put a ARB in whatever rear end goes in along with cromo shafts and 4.88 gears.

Finding a 9 inch in CO is hard and people want $500-$600 for them. Most junkyard ones are big bearing, and bent. Im having a hard time finding one. I was thinking of doing a 44 rear, but once again, rare to find a xj or one thats going to work. I did though just find a 8.8 alread geared to 4.88 for $400. do a super 88 and then run spacers and rear should come out to about 65 wms to wms, which isent bad at all I dont think. Im leaning town snaggin it up since it already has the gears in it, so I wouldent have to buy them. Already buying cromo shafts so that gets rid of the c-clip. What do you guys think?

60 or 14 bolt is not a option so don't even bring that into the question.

Check this out ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Tacedaddy]

Dana S110 rear axle would be great then!

 

[RWKHausSupply]

so for abuot 1600$ you could have the rear end with stock shafts not including new drive line ... total fail. 8.8 d44 and a 9in can be build for cheaper and be strong enough .

I was going to just let this go but this is pure idiot..

Total fail? How is that? 350$ more you get better ground clearance & Extremely stronger in every aspect.

Stock shafts? Yep stock shafts that are about double the strength of that 8.8 chromoly.

Less? Yes only about 350$ if you keep stock shafts in the 8.8 and about equal if a new axle kit is included in the 8.8 built. Oh if you compare apples to apples.

Stock drive line? U have to buy a flange adapter for the 8.8 and the stock rear shaft doesnt work w a 8.8. Or spend the 245$ on a brand new bolt in for the 14b.

You sir should just pass over this argument as you clearly are not well enough informed to comment on it..

As for no 14b. I respect that. I just find it hard to overlook a better option over a 9" in every aspect. If you want to just swap in a fully stock 8.8 from a explorer w all stock disc, shafts, gears, posi, etc. Then ur right. A 14b is overkill...

 

[ruger81]

I was going to just let this go but this is pure idiot..

Total fail? How is that? 350$ more you get better ground clearance & Extremely stronger in every aspect.

Stock shafts? Yep stock shafts that are about double the strength of that 8.8 chromoly.

Less? Yes only about 350$ if you keep stock shafts in the 8.8 and about equal if a new axle kit is included in the 8.8 built. Oh if you compare apples to apples.

Stock drive line? U have to buy a flange adapter for the 8.8 and the stock rear shaft doesnt work w a 8.8. Or spend the 245$ on a brand new bolt in for the 14b.

You sir should just pass over this argument as you clearly are not well enough informed to comment on it..

As for no 14b. I respect that. I just find it hard to overlook a better option over a 9" in every aspect. If you want to just swap in a fully stock 8.8 from a explorer w all stock disc, shafts, gears, posi, etc. Then ur right. A 14b is overkill...

Thats is cool supporting vendor busting out the name calling. Hopefully he buys all his stuff from you.

 

[in4aride]

I was going to just let this go but this is pure idiot..

U have to buy a flange adapter for the 8.8 and the stock rear shaft doesnt work w a 8.8. Or spend the 245$ on a brand new bolt in for the 14b.

You sir should just pass over this argument as you clearly are not well enough informed to comment on it..

Funny the verbage here. Usually I agree with you Haus....

But finding a common for ranger or aerostar (what omg aerostars use an 8.8 too? :gag: ) You simply unbolt the 1310 ujoint flange they use and bolt it up to your explorer or FW 8.8 and it doesnt cost you a cent more and accepts your stock 1310 ujoint driveshaft.