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9 inch, 44 or 8.8

OK but then the argument that a 8.8 is cheaper than a 9' by a drastic amount as stated 2 posts up is TOTALLY false.
 
JY 8.8 from a exploder with discs and likely has a LSD is a more cost effective upgrade then a 9" and are far more plentiful which typically means cheaper. Usually the hot rod crowd have picked up all the 9" but if you manage to score a 9" relatively cheap it's likely gonna be open diff and I'm gonna guess pretty hard to find one with discs. I would venture a guess that gears, bearings/install kits and lockers and spools will all be close in price, like wise for the set up and axles. C clip eliminators are prob $150 for a 8.8 and well worth it. So yes a 9" could be built for close to the same price as a 8.8, but over all cost would depend on the cost of the diff house and factor how important discs are and if you really need a 9". If your running 38s or taller your probably better of with a 14B at that point.
 
OK but then the argument that a 8.8 is cheaper than a 9' by a drastic amount as stated 2 posts up is TOTALLY false.

I agree, especially when you add in the cost of a super 88 kit to make it wide enough.

I got lucky and go it second hand.
 
Re: Re: 9 inch, 44 or 8.8

I would venture a guess that gears, bearings/install kits and lockers and spools will all be close in price, like wise for the set up and axles. C clip eliminators are prob $150 for a 8.8 and well worth it. So yes a 9" could be built for close to the same price as a 8.8

Why venture when google is so easy? It's right there, waiting for you! Go to ringandpinion.com and you will see, everything EVERYTHING, is more expensive for the 9"... and you'll source the 8.8 for at least a couple hundred less than the 9", so that's your C clip eliminator right there.

The only way to build a 9" cheaper than an 8.8 is if you get the axle for free. But this argument is only about price, if that doesn't matter...
 
A 8.8 is going to cost more to build. An ARB for both axles is almost a grand. Gears are roughly the same price with the guys I know and get them from. Install will be cheaper on a 9 at the shop that does my work. But the 9 is already strong enough to handle 37s with stock shafts and will hold up. I would have to spend almost another $600 to get the super 88 kit from Yukon. Yukon shafts for the 9 are about $350. So its cheaper to build a 9 then 88 right there broken down. With me being full width in the front I will have to run 2" spacers to get with in 3" of my front. And I don't really wana run huge spacers like that. Always a weak point, plus tire companys around here won't touch spacers. So I'm leaning toward a 9 for now.
 
Well forgive my stupidity but wouldn't you be able to get 8.8 full with shafts for the same cost as a 9"?
 
i can't believe this thread is 2 pages long.....

put an 8.8 in it....it will live for a long time without a super kit. gear it and lock it drive it and save money


the 8.8 is stronger than the 44 all day anyday
 
Get the 9, you wont be dissapointed. You can grow with the 9 inch to almost endless proportions. As your wheeling and tire size changes (and we all know it will at some point) the 9 inch can accommodate with little modifications. The 9 inch can run 31,33,35,and 40 spline axles, last time I checked an 8.8 cant do that. The 9 inch also has a much stronger ring and pinion set up and has an enormous amount of after market support. As far as the drum brakes, they are bigger than the factory XJ brakes and can lock up my 37's no problem. You can always upgrade to disc's later on, but for me, if it works, dont mess with it.
 
you really think that? id run 37's on a stock 8.8 before i ran them on stock 9 shafts....

we break alloy 31 spline 9 shafts regularly....
Nope. The stock carriers are garbage. Seen plenty here go boom on 35's (one on 33's but i think that can be blamed on the driver)

Ran a 9" with 37's that I got handed down, it had been running 37's for 6 or 7 years, only breakage ever was a bad weld causing the truss to move.
That was stock 31 spline shafts, stock carrier, and a mini spool.

Drum brakes will stop you just fine.


As far as a FW 8.8. Yes you can get them same price out here. Harder to find ones are the older trucks, but most of those are missing the carriers as a lot had the factory 'locker' and limited slip. The easier to find ones are the expedition ones. And they have and oddball bolt pattern which requires custome shafts, or spacers, again adding to the cost.
 
I dont know why... But no one has mentioned a 14b FF rear?
With a 200$ shave kit and 100$ ring gear shave, it has beter clearance then Any of the 8.8, D44, 9" etc... It is had for about 150$. Disc conversion total is about 350$. Grizzly locker is about 420$. Gears about 150 and master kit about 100$.

Its stronger then any of the above mentioned. Its very close to the right width 66-67". All you need is to get the 3/4T D44 outer stuff to make your D44 8lug. Then nicer alum 17" rims are even cheaper and easyier to find used then the 5x5.5"
 
I dont know why... But no one has mentioned a 14b FF rear?
With a 200$ shave kit and 100$ ring gear shave, it has beter clearance then Any of the 8.8, D44, 9" etc... It is had for about 150$. Disc conversion total is about 350$. Grizzly locker is about 420$. Gears about 150 and master kit about 100$.

Its stronger then any of the above mentioned. Its very close to the right width 66-67". All you need is to get the 3/4T D44 outer stuff to make your D44 8lug. Then nicer alum 17" rims are even cheaper and easyier to find used then the 5x5.5"
exactly the route i'm going.
 
Mostly because he in no way needs a 14b. with a 35-37 max tire size and the trails he runs it would be way overkill. and because it wasn't one of the options he asked about.
 
Overkill? You mean not able to break it? Cause I know MANY that have spun 8.8 tubes, bent d44 housings, broke f9 28 and 31sp axles, etc... I know he didnt ask about it. But in no way is it not a good option. You are matching width with one, saving $ with one, building it to last for ever with one, and your gaining ground clearance with one.

Just sayin...
 
Honestly, I'd say since you are getting chromo shafts and an ARB... pick up a fullwidth 8.8 out of a Ford truck of some sort. Doesn't matter if the shafts and carrier are gone already since you're buying aftermarket for that stuff anyways. Bolt on Explorer disc brake backing plates (they have the same bolt pattern truck to SUV, right?) before leaving the yard, they just became free. Get your chromos, gearing, ARB, diff cover, and c clip eliminator (if that's even required on truck axles) and you're done.

Oh, perches and shock mounts etc but that goes without saying on a custom rear.

As for the 14 bolt, here I was thinking he was running 5 lug (will any 5 lug wheels even fit over a 14b hub?) and I'm pretty sure he said 60/14 are right out, so no dice there.
 
Mostly because he in no way needs a 14b. with a 35-37 max tire size and the trails he runs it would be way overkill. and because it wasn't one of the options he asked about.
i run 35's on a d44 with all the bells and whistles, and it's been broken 4 times since May. It will only hold up if you're not heavy on the skinny pedal, IMHO.
I'll be going with 37's when i get the axles swapped. Maybe 40's way down the road.
 
Overkill? You mean not able to break it? Cause I know MANY that have spun 8.8 tubes, bent d44 housings, broke f9 28 and 31sp axles, etc... I know he didnt ask about it. But in no way is it not a good option. You are matching width with one, saving $ with one, building it to last for ever with one, and your gaining ground clearance with one.

Just sayin...

Overkill as he won't break an 8.25 with were he wants to wheel and his wheeling style. i wheel with him. i don't think the 8.8 is best option.

kastein. no. they are not all same bp. and they are c clip even in trucks.
 
you can go 6 lug with a ff 14 bolt, but it isnt cheap. much cheaper to swap wheels.
 
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