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8" or 10" wheel width.

Paul S said:
Brad, don't you run Crawlers? No need for a spare.

Paul
Yea, the Creepy variety.
Since this thread began, about a year ago, I've had to sell the TRs (5X4.5) and buy a new set (5X5) due to the new HP44.
I got a super deal and ended up just buying a full set of 5.
I already had 5 of the Creepy Crawlers.
I figured it was worth just it to save 20% of the wear by incorporating a fifth tire into the rotation.

BTW, I went with 10" wide.
 
Well guys...my 31x10.50's are bald. The 7" wide factory rims will soon be gone and replaced by new, wider rims. I'll be getting either 33x12.50 15's or a 35's of the same width. The only problem is I can't decide on 8" or 10" wide rim. Everyone here is sayin 8, but 10 sounds better IMO. I don't wheel all that much, but when I do I really make an ordeal of it. I don't wanna get a 10 inch rim and tear it all to pieces on curbs, nor do I want uneven tire wear like I've had with the 31x10's and 7" wide wheel. Im getting Dunlop Mud Rover (getting a really good deal on em) and their webpage says to use a 8.5" - 11" wide rim. To me a 10" would be the sweet spot and 8" would be a tad too small. Take all this into consideration and give me your best, most accurate info that you can give because your helping a poor, ignorant, Jeep crazy College kid with his meager finances. Thanks again fellas. Ohh yeah, 98 XJ, 4.0, Auto, Part Time, D30, 8.25, 3.55's, 2" lift, and trimmed fenders. The 33's will fit, but 35's will be goin on whenever these wear out. So...in other words, a larger lift and 35's in about a year and a half - 2 years.

Reedy
 
Talk about bringing back old threads........:twak:





Anyways...... 8" is perfect for a 12.5" wide tire. you will find that is the most common wheel size used for that size tire.
 
Paul S said:
Brad, don't you run Crawlers? No need for a spare.

Paul
I run 35 BFG Krawlers and I felt the same way but anything could happen so I bought the largest tire that will lay flat on the floor behind the rear seat. 34x9.50x15 tsl. Keeps me from putting a tire on the roof(high center of gravity) Or on the tail gate( I just don't like those heavy swing aways that get in the way). If I get a flat on the rear I have a powertraxs no-slip so I would have to put the spare on the front that has a selectable locker and move the front tire to the back so I could go down the road. Hopfully with enough plugs that I carry and compressed air I could fix a regular flat or small hole and keep the Krawler on. Ever seen a tire with like11 plugs in one hole and it still holding air? That will me before I change the tire. Next I won't be able to fit the flat in the jeep so I have this god awfull looking purple rope that I will use to tie to the roof as an incentive to keep tying more plugs.
I personaly can't speak for the durability of the Krawler but I've used and seen Swamper TSL SX tires hold air after the looked like they have been thru a shredder. I had a cut so deep in one I filled the cut with super glue so rocks wouldn't work their way in. Super glue and ruber are a match made in heaven for what it's worth and good to fill clean deep cuts befor they leak or the cut hangs on more rocks.
 
xjmania said:
Well guys...my 31x10.50's are bald. The 7" wide factory rims will soon be gone and replaced by new, wider rims. I'll be getting either 33x12.50 15's or a 35's of the same width. The only problem is I can't decide on 8" or 10" wide rim. Everyone here is sayin 8, but 10 sounds better IMO. I don't wheel all that much, but when I do I really make an ordeal of it. I don't wanna get a 10 inch rim and tear it all to pieces on curbs, nor do I want uneven tire wear like I've had with the 31x10's and 7" wide wheel. Im getting Dunlop Mud Rover (getting a really good deal on em) and their webpage says to use a 8.5" - 11" wide rim. To me a 10" would be the sweet spot and 8" would be a tad too small. Take all this into consideration and give me your best, most accurate info that you can give because your helping a poor, ignorant, Jeep crazy College kid with his meager finances. Thanks again fellas. Ohh yeah, 98 XJ, 4.0, Auto, Part Time, D30, 8.25, 3.55's, 2" lift, and trimmed fenders. The 33's will fit, but 35's will be goin on whenever these wear out. So...in other words, a larger lift and 35's in about a year and a half - 2 years.

Reedy
10" has been perfect for my 35-12.5s
 
xjmania said:
Well guys...my 31x10.50's are bald. The 7" wide factory rims will soon be gone and replaced by new, wider rims. I'll be getting either 33x12.50 15's or a 35's of the same width. The only problem is I can't decide on 8" or 10" wide rim. ...

Reedy

Sorry I havent gotten back to you, I just got back into town late last night.

IMO what it all boils down to is:

1. An 8" rim will hold a bead better than a 10" rim...
2. 10" rim will get scuffed, beat easier
3. 10" will probably provide better wear characteristics but it will not be much better
4. 10" rims just look bad on 12.5's or 13.5's IMO

But to me the main point is the fact that an 8" rim will hold a bead much better than a 10" rim. I tested my 36x13.5x15 Bias Iroks on 15x8 MT Classic II's this weekend at 8PSI and it didnt even phase them. For Tellico I'll probably run around 6psi and that's w/o beadlocks..

For a 12.50 tire I would use no wider than an 8" rim... Just my $0.02
Chris
 
What about on a 33x13.5 or 35x14.5" like the Pitbull variety tires?? keep the 15x8" that I have or go with a 15x10"?

Where is the determine tire width to move from 8 to 10?
 
That's another reason I opted for 10" wide.
The downside of 10" with 12.5" tires is debatable, however, it does give you the ability to go with wider tires.
 
Everyone has opinions and I bet that someone has actually performed testing on tire size vs. rim width but I dont know where it's located at.

In my mind (and I think lots will back it up and some will not) but on a 12.5, 13.5" tire an 8" rim will hold a bead much better than a 10" rim.

Now, 14.50, I dont know that's pretty wide...

If for some reason I start losing beads... i'll just save up some $$ and get the new version of the Staun Internal beadlocks...I think you can get them for less than $600.00 now.
 
uncc civilengineer said:
If for some reason I start losing beads... i'll just save up some $$ and get the new version of the Staun Internal beadlocks...I think you can get them for less than $600.00 now.

wow - just learned something new. These look really cool. Would like to see more writeups about them first though. But a good option.
 
KSXJ said:
wow - just learned something new. These look really cool. Would like to see more writeups about them first though. But a good option.

There are several people here in NC running them and have not had any issues with them at all. I believe the new vesion is easier to install and all around better than the older ones. Still a pretty nice way to have beadlocks and stay "street legal"...

Ghost (Glenn) has some he just hasn't gotten around to installing them yet.
 
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