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8.5" XJ Death Wobble, Can't Keep Throwing Money At This

No, Mike, I think he was refering to me.

And I suppose I was being smartassed. But better smartass than dumbass, I'd say.

I'm just trying to point out that you're trying to solve the wrong problems, the hard problems, and ignoring the easy solutions..

Yes, one guy says this, another says that. But everybody pretty much agreed that 8.5" is way too high to do easily.

And THAT is the decision you have to make. Do you want 8.5", or do you want easy?

You simply can't have both...

Robert
 
I have looked at a lot of kits and setups, these are the only ones I think I would run, and why. I'm not going to go into the ones that I wouldn't run or why, as there are a bunch of them and my reasons are not always .. reasonable. ;)

Just trust me to say the rusty's kit is total crap, and you aren't going to find *true* hardcore jeepers in hardcore rigs running hardcore trails on them, that *keep* them. People buy them for the price, and then spend buy another kit for reliability later.

--


Drop brackets maintain a full 5 link, which offers excellent flex (not necessarily the same *droop* as longarms, but better flex as you don't get the binding of radius arms). They are inexpensive, easy to install, true "bolt in" and let you run the arms of your choice. It will move your front axle forward just shy of an inch, which is a huge bonus.

The TNT kit is very good. It is tucked up out of the way, has good clearance, is *very* well built. The crossmember is a pain to install and you often have to remove it to remove your transfercase. Sometimes getting your caster/pinion set right is difficult too, but thats the same with any kit really.

The RK 3 link kit is very strong, offers super flex, doesn't have the ground clearance the TNT kit has (NONE of them do). It has only one upper link, which can be a little scary on the highway in my opinion, but people don't seem to be having problems with it. The one upper link does help to cut down on a lot of the binding other radius arm kits have and may help your housing last longer.

The RE longarm kit has probably the worst clearance, but is very common and easy to get parts for. The crossmember attaches with lots of sheetmetal screws (or at least did last time I looked at one) and required a lot of cutting and grinding to make fit right.


I run drop brackets. I run them with fixed RE lowers and adjustable RE uppers, so I don't drag the threads of a lower over the rocks. I have never hung up on them, rarely hit them, and can use the full travel of a 14" travel shock. I have 6.5" of lift with 35's, and my jeep drives like a civic on the highway. Several times I have considered going to a TNT kit, but I don't see a reason to change what I have - it works really well, and if I *do* damage an arm, a standard RE upper/lower is not hard to find at most major events or wheeling spots to get me off the trail.

Thats pretty much it. Its my opinion, but a lot of people here would probably tell you its a very informed opinion and reasonable advice. You have to live with your decision, so you need to make it - but read what I wrote a couple of times and keep in mind its about as strait forward as you are going to get, and has solid mechanical understanding and experiance behind it.

Cal
 
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Listen to Cal, he knows his stuff, and I think gave a very good run down of your options at this point.
 
cal said:
The RE longarm kit has probably the worst clearance, but is very common and easy to get parts for. The crossmember attaches with lots of sheetmetal screws (or at least did last time I looked at one) and required a lot of cutting and grinding to make fit right.
RE's kit uses nut strips inside the frame rails. I can't remember using any sheet metal screws in my kit. And mine fit like it was supposed to with no cutting or grinding.
 
the rk 3-link works great for the money. blt on and simple to install. the loss of ground clearance is only a big deal in the rocks. you live in ohio and obviously dont wheel the rocks so it would be perfect for your mallcrawler.
 
Georgia Mike said:
RE's kit uses nut strips inside the frame rails. I can't remember using any sheet metal screws in my kit. And mine fit like it was supposed to with no cutting or grinding.


I did say last time I looked at one, which was several years ago..
 
Edit: Nevermind. Good Luck.
 
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EDIT: Post deleted due to someone else sacking up and getting a clue. :)
 
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cal said:
EDIT: Post deleted due to someone else sacking up and getting a clue. :)

teh interweb is a vurry dangerous place.
 
Originally Posted by lowrange2
What part of "THe spacer is required to keep from scrubing" did you not understand, brilliance?

Who is it here that gets hurt by smartass remarks yet still makes them?
You asked for opinions and that is what you are getting but you are offended when someone wants to help. Crawl back under your rig. Looks like it needs a good wheel chock.
 
troy6187 said:
the rk 3-link works great for the money. blt on and simple to install. the loss of ground clearance is only a big deal in the rocks. you live in ohio and obviously dont wheel the rocks so it would be perfect for your mallcrawler.

I live in South Carolina, but still not many rocks, just mud and huge hills.



Thanks for the info Cal thats what im looking for!


Speed_racer said:
I read the first page, and the 5th, and Ill pretty much agree that youre going to have a hard time getting a shortarm setup to EVER work at that height...

Im sure this' been discussed already, but in case it hasnt.... What driveline mods do you have? SYE and rear cv shaft?! or no?

Tom woods front and back and SYE.

IGOCOMMANDO said:
Originally Posted by lowrange2
What part of "THe spacer is required to keep from scrubing" did you not understand, brilliance?

Who is it here that gets hurt by smartass remarks yet still makes them?
You asked for opinions and that is what you are getting but you are offended when someone wants to help. Crawl back under your rig. Looks like it needs a good wheel chock.

I don't have time for dumbasses like you.
 
lowrange2 said:
Thanks for the info Cal thats what im looking for!


Np. Sometimes you have to beat the topic to the ground a few times before you ask the right question. ;)
 
You ain't kiddin! You give me what i wanted to know... For what i do with my jeep i think im just gunna go with RE Drop brackets to smooth out my 100 mile per day drive and put me some adjustable UCAs for caster. and fix my damn TB. and be happy with the thing. Thanks alot Cal.
 
You may end up needing to shorten your lowers too, I'm not sure - it depends how much you have them lengthened to try and make 8.5" of lift work.

There is an excellent writeup on them here, along with the length of lca/uca you should need at each height with stock bracketry. The chart is at the bottom, check it out.

http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html
 
Both top and bottom are fixed. thats why I havent driven it since i put the lift on. It's not safe! Just like i have been told oh so many times. Thats why im trying to do somehting about it. Thanks for the link.
 
Fixed is no big thing. If the lowers are too long, pull them off, cut the axle end joint off very carefully, grind the surface clean, make sure both are the same length, notch the ends with your grinder, and have any competant welder weld them back together (remove the bushing from the lower half or it will melt).

Its like an hour and a half job, if the welder is nearbye. Might sound like big deal, but its not.

On the other hand, you might find your lowers are just right for what you are doing. If they are as long as I suspect they will be, you may have to extend your front driveshaft and possibly have clearance problems with draglink+tierod, but both are easy to fix. Get the DB's, get them installed, and if you have problems PM me.
 
Aight. Yeah that link was excellent. One of my good friends have been welding for about 15 years now so It shouldnt be any problem. Ya think ill need to have an alignment done after i do this? It needs an alignment now i dont want to have to do it twice. and how can i go about checking the caster angle myself? I appreciate the help man.
 
I couldnt actually tell you how to check caster; we did mine with an angle finder sitting on top of the lower balljoint while i was building the housing - probably not going to work for you.

Alignment takes about 8 minutes with a tape measure. Do it before and after, no reason to pay someone.

This gives you a basic idea how. Its even easier than he makes it sound:

http://www.allpar.com/fix/alignment.html
 
lowrange2 said:
Ya think ill need to have an alignment done after i do this? It needs an alignment now i dont want to have to do it twice.
Guaranteed.
 
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