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6.0 LS Swap

Thanks for all of the input on the exhaust. I still haven't made up my mind but I have some time to think about it.

I have not been able to get much done due to the weather in Atlanta. Driving around these people who have never been in the snow is not fun but its good for business! However we did get out and play a little with our other XJs.

I finished putting the frontend back together to measure for the radiator. Put on the 6.0L emblems. I got the power steering plumed using the stock 6.0 pressure hose and the Jeep return hose. I did have to bend the lines and trim the return to make them work. I will have a new pressure line made later to make it look better in the bay, but for now this will work.











 
Love your work, it's great when engine swaps that look factory.......when I did the TBI 4.3 GM V-6 swap a couple of decades ago, the IM Techs would pop the hood and just scratch their heads, because it looked like it came from the factory that way.
 
Okay...so I have a dumb question. Were you able to position the motor low enough with the Novak mounts so that you dont have to modify your hood? I believe Frank used the same mounts and the same accessorie brackets, and his alternator hit the hood.

I'm about to do this same swap and I just purchased all LS1 drive accessories to bring the height down. If I can figure out a way around this, I'd resell it and keep the stock vortec stuff instead.

EDIT: I probably should've read the first page. lol
 
Last edited:
SeeingSpots said:
Okay...so I have a dumb question. Were you able to position the motor low enough with the Novak mounts so that you dont have to modify your hood? I believe Frank used the same mounts and the same accessorie brackets, and his alternator hit the hood.

I'm about to do this same swap and I just purchased all LS1 drive accessories to bring the height down. If I can figure out a way around this, I'd resell it and keep the stock vortec stuff instead.

EDIT: I probably should've read the first page. lol
Click to expand...

No. The mounts are not low enough to make room for the taller LQ4 intake or alternator. The only way to have a stock hood is what you are doing. Car intake, injectors, fuel rail, and accessories brackets. This was just too much cost for me right now, I did not want to loose the HP and torque, and I don't mind moding the hood. Long term my truck will not have that stock look anyway.

Here are some pics to give you an better idea. I am going to lower the intake as soon as I get the radiator in, so it wont be as tall as it is in the pic.



 
Wondering about the mass air meter being that far away from the TB and what effect it will have on tune as well as fan wash (will it be an issue ?).
I am involved with a LS1 swap on another vehicle and the meter is right in front of the TB. Just asking questions as Im completely ls juan dumb.
 
01upcountry said:
Wondering about the mass air meter being that far away from the TB and what effect it will have on tune as well as fan wash (will it be an issue ?).
I am involved with a LS1 swap on another vehicle and the meter is right in front of the TB. Just asking questions as Im completely ls juan dumb.
Click to expand...

I bought the cold air kit for a 2010 Chevy 2500 with the 6.0. So it should be dead on. Once I get the radiator in I will install the shield that came with the kit.
 
Today I was able to get the battery relocated to the back, run the new 2ga to the starter, install the starter, make new 4ga grounds, and start on replacing the wire harness in the 4L80E. The 4L80E is notorious for the harness to leak at the seal or through the connectors. I ordered a revised harness to prevent this issue.













 
I was able to finish replacing the harness in the trans today and send off the ECU to lt1swap.com for programing. Then I started working on installing the Jeep under hood fuse box and PCM under the back seat. Then took a drive to Summit Racing to look at radiators. After looking and measuring 20+ I picked one to try out. Its a Griffin Pro Series 22x19x3 2 row rated for 400hp. I know its not a direct fit and its not the typical 35x11 XJ radiator, but if my measurements are correct it will work way better and save me tons of money $170 vs $650+.









 
Awesome thread! Lots of good info. Keep up the good work.

How is the fit for the 4L80E? Is it tight in the trans tunnel or are they about the same size as a 4L60E?
 
racer32 said:
Awesome thread! Lots of good info. Keep up the good work.

How is the fit for the 4L80E? Is it tight in the trans tunnel or are they about the same size as a 4L60E?
Click to expand...

Im amazed at the room. Its 4" shorter total length so I can have a longer drive shaft and I can raise the trans to where I would have to make a 5" extension for the trans mount. Im making a 3" trans mount now. There are no fitment issues at all.
 
Excited to see how the transmission works out... The more pictures you can take the better! The $700 or so that Novak wants is fine if there's nothing else that will do the job. If a $200 model will do it, though...
 
I was able to test fit the radiator this morning. I looks like it will work just fine. Now I am making permanent brackets to hold it in place. I will be mounting an oil and trans cooler on the driver side of the radiator for max cooling. Here are some pics.













 
yossarian19 said:
Excited to see how the transmission works out... The more pictures you can take the better! The $700 or so that Novak wants is fine if there's nothing else that will do the job. If a $200 model will do it, though...
Click to expand...

I meant radiator. Oh well. Too late to edit.
 
The radiator is in and permanently mounted. I fabricated some brackets from 3/16"x 1" aluminum stock. I'm going to make a crossbar under the radiator to protect it from the rocks later down the road.















 
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