4.6L Stroker, Help me build it please!

[XJoshua]

I dont rember the the original price but I think CO might just be pricey.

Ill post up my prices from balchuck when I get off work.

Hopefully the 6M converstion costs less on my next car sinceits just a basic rebuild. 2.8L 5M-GE motor with a 7M-GTE crank and rods to make it a 3.0L 6M-GE. Funny how american motor crank swaps make more displacement then import motors.

 

[alex22]

XJoshua, just curious, what is the shop's rate per hour?

 

[XJoshua]

The shop in town charged per item.

So heres a small list.

6 cylinger bore and hone = 78
crank grind = 85
balncing 165
fit valves 96
3 angle grind 75
cleaning 48

Thats not everything because Im doing this on my phone but thats for most of the large things.

The McCabe price he's going to figure tonight and call me in the morning. Estimated 450 for unmount and mount of pistons, cc pistons cups, check deck height, doing some math, and balancing. But since its already balanced he said he wont charge for that so its probally 300.

So after he gets it done he'll call and either talk about machining the pistons for 300ish or buying another set of pistons for 200ish with the correct size. I told him I have a few requirements. 1.) keep it as cheap as possible, 2.) 9.5 comp max, 3.) and make it run Premo fuel or mid grade.

So hopefully we can get it done for $600. wish it could be $500. Ugh now I wont be able to move out since rent will kill me and Ill get charged storage.

 

[XJoshua]

Alright I get my engine the friday after the upcomming friday.

Rough guess estimates.
He didnt tell me how much he is going to deck the block so assumming its going to be .010" I get these results with the pistons being machined to 20cc in the form of a circular cup instead of a D.

Compression 9.5:1
Quench .0845 with a difference of .011 from stock

While working on it he looked at alot of the work and was very picky. He is going to fix the poor job on the connection rods to make them more straight. The part that connects to the crank wasnt cut perfectly and said I could still get away with it but told him to clean it up anyways.

Grand total: $680 to $720 depending on how much needs cut from the rods.

What was done:
Purchase Cam Bearings
Install cam Bearings
Wash Block
Recon Rods
CC Pistons
Machine Pistons
Deck Block
Balance Pistons

So Id say Itll run a good 18 years more if taken care of. He also kept me within a 700 dollar total which made me happy. Got it to 9.5:1 compression and says I could probally run MidGrade but Premo would be better. Also he inspected everything was a great guy and values his work. Next engine is surely going to him.

 

[Flash]

Alright I get my engine the friday after the upcomming friday.

Rough guess estimates.
He didnt tell me how much he is going to deck the block so assumming its going to be .010" I get these results with the pistons being machined to 20cc in the form of a circular cup instead of a D.

Compression 9.5:1
Quench .0845 with a difference of .011 from stock

While working on it he looked at alot of the work and was very picky. He is going to fix the poor job on the connection rods to make them more straight. The part that connects to the crank wasnt cut perfectly and said I could still get away with it but told him to clean it up anyways.

Grand total: $680 to $720 depending on how much needs cut from the rods.

What was done:
Purchase Cam Bearings
Install cam Bearings
Wash Block
Recon Rods
CC Pistons
Machine Pistons
Deck Block
Balance Pistons

So Id say Itll run a good 18 years more if taken care of. He also kept me within a 700 dollar total which made me happy. Got it to 9.5:1 compression and says I could probally run MidGrade but Premo would be better. Also he inspected everything was a great guy and values his work. Next engine is surely going to him.

arty:


So would you post up your spec sheet when you get the motor...........Ya i now...hasta

Glad to here they put a little bit more lov'ns in to your stoker:smootch: :yelclap: then the ether place

Flash

 

[XJoshua]

:bawl::bawl::bawl: My motor isnt done today! Robbie was suppose to call me back tonight, but didnt. He was working on the pistons this morning and said he would be done by 6. Its 7:46. I hope he calls tomorrow. I want my baby back and assembled.

As for details. I hope to have it assembled by the end of november and in by mid december. Best christmas present ever!!!! Its going to suck installing it. Cold weather. Cold hands. Cold engine. Runny nose. But Ill be happy. Just need a lift and tyres and Ill be green.

Flash Ill get the spec sheet and a rough cut of my total costs up soon.

 

[XJoshua]

Well I picked up almost everything today. Took the cam up to make sure it fit and turns out my cam is bent 10 what ever 10 is. So Im buying another and then returning the old. Also the front cam bearing bore has a ridge which compresses my bearing. So Im just going to get the cam journals polished so itll fit and replace the front cam bearing every 80k miles. No biggie might be sold or become a trail rig by then.

Pistons look kick ass. Ill get pics up after turkey day and a spec sheet.

 

[XJoshua]

Piston Cup 21.6cc

Beautiful Assembly

Re-Resized

Holiday Season Snow Flakes

Ill get specs tomorrow since Im on paid holiday until monday. Love my job.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

Josh,
The pistons look nice but they don't have a flat portion that corresponds with the flat portion of the head where quench takes place, so I hope you don't run into detonation problems due to a lack of quench.

 

[XJoshua]

He wrote the specs for the new quench(including the distance from top of piston to bottom of dish) which is why he just cut minimal off the block to get it straight. So Im going to plug that info in now and see what happens.

With my quench be rediculously bad in the begining. This might ai me.

 

[XJoshua]

Doc do you have a fomula or know of one to where I can compensate for the cut on the piston? Or how would I plug it into the calculator?

Also the pistons are cut 0.147 deep.

Here's the currents secs without the quench drop:
Bored over: .060
Block Decked: .006
Head plained: '010
Piston CC: 21.6CC
Pin height: 1.581

Comp: 9.29
Quench: .0885
DIfference from stock: .015 below
Deck clearance: .0435


So look better?

 

[Dr. Dyno]

By my calculation, the compression ratio is 9.2:1 so your stroker will have an almost identical CR and quench to mine, and you should have no problem running 89 octane.

 

[Flash]

Doc do you have a fomula or know of one to where I can compensate for the cut on the piston? Or how would I plug it into the calculator?

Also the pistons are cut 0.147 deep.

Here's the currents secs without the quench drop:
Bored over: .060
Block Decked: .006
Head plained: '010
Piston CC: 21.6CC
Pin height: 1.581

Comp: 9.29
Quench: .0885
DIfference from stock: .015 below
Deck clearance: .0435


So look better?

Glad to see you got it back.
I will dig up the formula to night.

It some thing like bore X bore X stroke(.147) and then you have to add pie there some wares
any way you will need to now the diameter or bore size of the dish..................
The easies way would be a piece of plex glass with a couple small holes drilled in it.
and a syringe to measure the fluid going in.

Flash

 

[Flash]

Glad to see you got it back.
I will dig up the formula to night.

It some thing like bore X bore X stroke(.147) and then you have to add pie there some wares
any way you will need to now the diameter or bore size of the dish..................
The easies way would be a piece of plex glass with a couple small holes drilled in it.
and a syringe to measure the fluid going in.

Flash

Did you measure the "bore" Diamiter of the Piston Dish?

 

[XJoshua]

Flash I have yet to measure the diameter of the piston dish bore. Ive been caught up in work and getting my block back. Also I dont have suffcient measuring devices to get a correct reading. Ill see if I get that done tomorrow. Have to return the bent camshaft to Checker in the new Camshaft box so I dont end up paying for two camshafts. Luckily I know how to reseal shrink wrap and make it look like it was never open.

So today when I wake up Ill be returning the camshaft heading to Springs to drop off the brand new camshaft to get the journals polished. Aswell as picking up a dual diaphram brake booster for $10. Yay! Then heading to Denver for the Rob Zombie & Ozzy Concert. Doulble Yay!

Also Ive began development on a new winter grill for those with a 3 core radiator. Ive installed my HO 4.0L 3 Core Alunimum radiator aswell as a aftermarket "cheap" tranny cooler since my bud broke the one in the 3 core dealing with the damn ford quick connects. With the new radiator in and thermostat. It works to well and runs as if no thermostat was installed. So Im going to pickup another grill and start fiber glassing it to allow less air to pass. Something that will look stock but isnt a cover like used on semis and busses. Just a unscrew and screw on grill. Im hopping it will allow the temp to get to stock even when the heater is on full blast. Which is my problem when the heater is on the temp goes down low. So less airflow means higher temps and the aux fan will pull more if temps rise to far.

 

[tysonxj]

Have to return the bent camshaft to Checker in the new Camshaft box so I dont end up paying for two camshafts. Luckily I know how to reseal shrink wrap and make it look like it was never open.

So some other Jeeper is going to get screwed by purchasing your bent camshaft? Which Checker is it, I want to make sure I don't go there.

Chris

 

[wingnutooa]

i think they need the old one back so they have proof that he's not just trying to score another aftermarket cam...

$0.02


____________________________________________________________________________

 

[XJoshua]

The camshaft isnt noticiably bent. Could only be seen with a micro meter thingo. It just wasnt perfect. Also its under warranty and thats how I sent it back. Just used the warranty on the newer one. So compcam will probally just toss it and not loose any profit.

FYI it was the southside checker on northern by king soopers.

The first cam was probally bent during shipping. And I babied the thing whenever I had to move it and it was always stored horizontally.

 

[seanyb505]

Any progress?

 

[seanyb505]

Ok i tried this combo and the results look good (on paper).
.03 overbore
.02 decked from block
and using the silovite pistons cc'ed to 21.6 and using the same piston height of 1.581,
CR- 9.27 or 9.43
quench - .0705 or .0615
both depending on head gasket used, .041 or .032, respectively.

It uses the same pistons with the same cc, and basically decks the block .02". The deck clearance is relatively close to stock, as is the quench with the .041 head gasket. From what Ive read in this thread so far the smaller the quench the better but too small and the pistons will hit at high rpm? If Im anywhere near close to knowing what quench distance is, than this setup seems to be ok. Please correct me if Im wrong! I know he was using a .06 overbore, but I dont think I will be.


One last question - Is there any need to shave the head if it doesnt have any cracks, bumps or fissures and it it completely straight? Thanks!