35's, 7" of lift, fender cutting, with 4.11's

[ChuckD]

You guys are so full of yourselves...sheesh. A handful of folks here have said "Don't so it....you'll break everything". I say HAH! We ALL started somewhere...and had to learn what breaks and what doesn't. And EVERYONE is different to the point where this kid may surprise you and not break anything.

It is my opinion that with some finesse a D-30 can live well with 35's...the u-joints being the weak point (unless you at least have 297's). A VERY close friend of mine...some of you may know him as yellowxj??....had a D-30 with 36" swampers for over 2 years...in that 2 year span he broke a few 260 u-joints...but it lived well until he started to get into some more serious terrain and the ring gear sheared. Now granted yes he broke...but for getting it all together etc...2 years is a long time.

And as for the 8.25 (if he has it) get some 29 spline shafts and the right side gears (or locker) and run it. LOTS of folks run 35's on the D-30/8.25 combo...hell LOTS of folks run the D-30/35 combo. Are these the best combination of axles for 35" tires...NO...of course not. But you guys make it sound like he's gonna snap something in his driveway for pete's sake...ease up.

And as for 4.11's....4.88's would be about ideal (you're all crazy saying 5.13's with 35's and a 6 cyl but that's my opinion)....BUT the 4.11's although not great...will get you there.

There are so many folks running 3.07's with 35's it's sickening...at least he;s not going to do that...again ...ease up.

You don't need D-60's with 35's...and the D-30/8.25 combo can live well with 35's with some beefing ...LOTS less $$ than swapping axles (usually), and not being STOOPID on the go-pedal. And just to clarify...I agree the stock axles aren;t the best combo for 35's and hard wheeling...but we all know they will work and can last quite a while if you drive right.

I had a IM with the kid when this started. He admitted to me that you busted his D30 spiders with the 33's he has. From tht evidence he has a pretty heavy foot. He'll probably argue that he doesn't.

Every thread that comes up, people are in denial on their gear ratio. They ask the question but don't want to hear the truth. I'll admit, 4.10 can work with 33's but 35's no way. As mentioned before, I'm glad I don;t ahve to wheel with him and I pray for those that do.

 

[BillR]

Every thread that comes up, people are in denial on their gear ratio. They ask the question but don't want to hear the truth. I'll admit, 4.10 can work with 33's but 35's no way. As mentioned before, I'm glad I don;t ahve to wheel with him and I pray for those that do.

It never changes , huh? :laugh3:
4:11s may work with 33s IF you have a manual and IF you live near sea-level. I just know that combo SUCKED up here at 7000 ft with my auto. :gag:
I wouldn't want to be behind him on a trail either... :repair:

 

[Roxtar]

Jeeptude, face it. With your setup; lots of lift, big tires, and very little consideration for what's behind it, you're obviously trying to look good at the expense of working good. Fine for the mall but slightly problematic on the trail. I can only imagine the rest of your setup, considering what SHOULD be done to properly go to 7" of lift (whether there's EVER a reason to go to that much lift is an issue by itself)
You asked for advice with your mind already made up.
We wish you the best.
Good luck.

 

[Ludakris]

honestly.. I tend to go in the middle on these debates.. as I am in the middle age wise.. usually... The 8.25 is constantly getting a bad rap, with 29spline axles it should hold up to 35's. The D30 has been known to hold up to much more than 35's. 4.10 gears will not be optimal on the street.. but if you searched you would know that. But the D44 crowd is growing.. I dont know were the "IF you dont have D44's your junk" attitude came from, but at 18 on a budget, keep your foot out of and think when you wheel... if you can keep stuff from braking, you'll be farther ahead..
On the issue of the lift and trimming? I should hope you dont need to trim with 7" of lift.. that is a rediculous amount of lift for your set up.

 

[Roxtar]

I think the point you're missing is this; if you're 18 and on a budget don't go to 35s with 7" of lift.
Go with a properly set up 3.5" of lift, trim, 31s or 32s, lockers, and learn to drive. Not near as sexy but 100% more capable of actually doing what it's supposed to.

 

[NHxj4x4]

OK, I have my flame suit on......

What is is asking is actually what I have right now. I run 7" of lift, 35x12.5's, HP D30 TRUSSED up front, 297x shafts, Ford 8.8 rear. BW Flares.

OK, it's been 1 year, and I did wheel it a few times before my engine quit (oil pump went) anyway, it was great on the trails, I didn't break anything. As far as on the street, I'm not sure why everyone says it's a dog, it's really not. Around town was fine, plenty of get up and go with the AW4. On the highway 65-70 on cruise control was comfortable, and frankly I would never need to go faster in it than that.

I suppose I have a little more going for me with the HP 30, 297x shafts, and of course the beefy as a mother 8.8, but as far as the gearing goes, really, not that bad IMO. Would I like 5.13's? Yes I would, but with my HP 30 having 4.10's already, as well as the 8.8, I really couldn't afford the $1000 for so to get the 5.13's in there. I'm happy with it.

I wouldn't run the D30 without the 297x shafts though, when you look at the stock shafts (forgot the #) and the 297's next to each other.....BIG difference, in the shaft and the U-Joint size. Also a nice truss to the 30 would help no matter what the shaft.

I say go for it dude, you can always upgrade later.

Todd

 

[CRASH]

and of course the beefy as a mother 8.8,
Todd

I think the practical limit for 8.8's is somewhere between 33 and 35.

"Beefy as a mother" and 8.8 should not be used in the same sentence togehter.

I've tried to polish the 8.8 turd for all it's worth. Broken housings and broken ARB's have been my reward.

CRASH

 

[Roxtar]

OK, I have my flame suit on......

What is is asking is actually what I have right now. I run 7" of lift, 35x12.5's, HP D30 TRUSSED up front, 297x shafts, Ford 8.8 rear. BW Flares.

OK, it's been 1 year, and I did wheel it a few times before my engine quit (oil pump went) anyway, it was great on the trails, I didn't break anything. As far as on the street, I'm not sure why everyone says it's a dog, it's really not. Around town was fine, plenty of get up and go with the AW4. On the highway 65-70 on cruise control was comfortable, and frankly I would never need to go faster in it than that.

I suppose I have a little more going for me with the HP 30, 297x shafts, and of course the beefy as a mother 8.8, but as far as the gearing goes, really, not that bad IMO. Would I like 5.13's? Yes I would, but with my HP 30 having 4.10's already, as well as the 8.8, I really couldn't afford the $1000 for so to get the 5.13's in there. I'm happy with it.

I wouldn't run the D30 without the 297x shafts though, when you look at the stock shafts (forgot the #) and the 297's next to each other.....BIG difference, in the shaft and the U-Joint size. Also a nice truss to the 30 would help no matter what the shaft.

I say go for it dude, you can always upgrade later.

Todd

I have the same setup other than full width D60s front and back, IROK 38s, and a tube chassis.
Other than the gearing and lift, what is the similarity between his rig and yours?

 

[NHxj4x4]

I have the same setup other than full width D60s front and back, IROK 38s, and a tube chassis.
Other than the gearing and lift, what is the similarity between his rig and yours?

Mainly the gearing, and the 30 (although mine is slightly more built)

I was trying to say that the gearing mainly feels fine, and that I haven't expirenced any breakage due to the 30.

 

[bgcntry72]

I think the point you're missing is this; if you're 18 and on a budget don't go to 35s with 7" of lift.
Go with a properly set up 3.5" of lift, trim, 31s or 32s, lockers, and learn to drive. Not near as sexy but 100% more capable of actually doing what it's supposed to.

x2.
I have ~4.5" lift, with 33s, 4.88s, cut flares, and lockers.
Compared to the majority of the rigs I wheel with, mine looks like a stocker.
I am secure enough in the size of my genitals to drive a rig that WORKS more impressively than it LOOKS. Perhaps someday you will understand.
I can do 95 mph if I want to, albeit for short bursts, and I can set the cruise at 75 mph and turn 2800-2900 rpm all day while getting 14 mpg.
Not as impressive at the mall, but it gets the job done, ask around.
when I rolled the last rig, I lowered the new one ~2".
I assume you want to run 7" with short arms?
Who needs drop brackets, right?
If you want advice on how to LOOK hardcore for a couple of hundred bucks, then you are in the wrong place.
No one here wants to pay for the same parts twice, or the same mod 3 times.
Take the advice and drink it in.

Yes I would, but with my HP 30 having 4.10's already, as well as the 8.8, I really couldn't afford the $1000 for so to get the 5.13's in there.

It would cost a LOAD more than $1000 to get a set of 5.13s into an HP30.
YMWNV.

 

[85xjwoody]

A buddy of mine that I go wheeling with has a 96 two door with 35 inch boggers and 6 inches of lift and a little trimming. He has lockers front and rear with the d30 and 8.25. The only thing that I have seen him break is his rear driveshaft straps. He beats his truck very hard and dives deep with it. I think that he should be alright with what he wants to go with. I also think that 7 inches of lift is pretty tall. Go lower and do some trimming. I would go with the 4.56 gears myself. I run 3 inches of lift with 31's and a four cylinder in my 85 wagoneer with 3.73 gears and it does the job for me.

 

[Danno]

Yeah, give the guy some slack. He probably doesn't have the $$$ right now to do it up the Bling Bling way. Been there done that, for sure. I must say that I prefer it the way it is now where I can afford to do it right when I want to. :wierd:
That said, 35's are too tall for 4.11 gears in the real world. I was running 32's with 4.56 and when I went to 36's it was then really too tall. I just installed an Atlas 4.3 to address that problem.
You are correct in the "opening the can of worms".....more like venomous snakes. I wanted to go to 36's so of course to do it right meant a new D44 front axle and a rear Ford 9" Currie HP free floater. My wife asked me how much I had spent on the new axles and I told her I really wasn't sure. I wasn't lying cuz I REALLY didn't WANT to know! :laugh3: Nobody ever said this was a cheap hobby. Not when you go above stock heighth.

 

[NHxj4x4]

I think the practical limit for 8.8's is somewhere between 33 and 35.

"Beefy as a mother" and 8.8 should not be used in the same sentence togehter.

I've tried to polish the 8.8 turd for all it's worth. Broken housings and broken ARB's have been my reward.

CRASH

Fair enough, that's your opinion. Compared to the 35, it's Beefy as a Mother. Yes the housing has it's spots of weakness, mainly because of the silly plug welds on the tubes. I ran a full bead around the tubes, hopefully that will prevent a twist. I think with 35's (and I'll never go above 35's) that the 8.8 is a great axle, and should always be placed above the bolt on 44 that many tend to desire and hold in high regard. I've seen the stock XJ 44's go for $500 on ebay, which just upsets me when I paid $220 for my 8.8 with 30K on it, disc brakes, 4.10's and a LSD (all-be-it crappy) Just took an extra day of work to get it all cleaned, and the perches and shock mounts on there, but that was well worth it.

Todd

 

[bgcntry72]

Yeah, give the guy some slack. He probably doesn't have the $$$ right now to do it up the Bling Bling way.

Good idea to advise someone without $$$ to put 35s on stock axles.
27 splines, 260 ujoints, and 35" tires with 4.10 gears.
Good to see you are looking out for his financial well being.

 

[Ludakris]

Good idea to advise someone without $$$ to put 35s on stock axles.
27 splines, 260 ujoints, and 35" tires with 4.10 gears.
Good to see you are looking out for his financial well being.

You're right, we should just tell him he's an idiot and needs to spend $10K or else he cant go wheeling with those that have. Break his spirit while he's still young.

 

[BrettM]

You're right, we should just tell him he's an idiot and needs to spend $10K or else he cant go wheeling with those that have. Break his spirit while he's still young.

sometimes the truth hurts.


you gotta pay to play, and to run 35s effectively it's gonna cost a couple grand, not nearly 10k if you can do some work yourself. there is nothing to prevent him from having tons of fun with 31s.

 

[Roxtar]

You're right, we should just tell him he's an idiot and needs to spend $10K or else he cant go wheeling with those that have. Break his spirit while he's still young.

I guess expecting someone to actually read a thread before replying is asking a lot.
See post #6,9,14,21,25,30,&34 in this thread for your answer.
No one is telling him he has to spend more or not wheel. The advice (post# 25) is telling him to not go to 35s & 7" just because it looks cool.
He asked if he should go to 35s w/ 7" lift with stock gearing, stock axles, and (I'm guessing here) stock driveline.
The common, and correct, response was, "NO".

 

[Ludakris]

I guess expecting someone to actually read a thread before replying is asking a lot.
See post #6,9,14,21,25,30,&34 in this thread for your answer.
No one is telling him he has to spend more or not wheel. The advice (post# 25) is telling him to not go to 35s & 7" just because it looks cool.
He asked if he should go to 35s w/ 7" lift with stock gearing, stock axles, and (I'm guessing here) stock driveline.
The common, and correct, response was, "NO".

you're right, my other posts clearly show that I did not read whats going on here. I am just saying that you could do a survey of guys running 35's and I would bet there are alot running fairly stock axles and NOT breaking. I understand its not Optimal.. but its budget friendly, I just hate how alot of the old guys here tend to throw out a NO without any gray area, and then scare guys out of doing anything to their rigs because of the costs. try to step into the way back machine and remember when you were young..
and keep up the post counting...

 

[Roxtar]

but its budget friendly,

What part of buying 35" tires is budget friendly? What part of fixing the likely breakage caused by an underbuilt rig moving up to 35s is budget friendly?
I'm asking because I'm currently going from 33s to 35s and I'm finding them to be a little pricy. Even without including the recommended extra build up.

Lud, I understand what your saying about popping the boy's bubble. I'm not on the, "he needs to spend..... to do it right" bandwagon. I'm saying he shouldn't spend the money on bigger new tires when he's probably underbuilt for the 33s he's now running. The fact that his funds are limited makes it even more important to spend wisely. The price of admission to the 35" club is high and, most likely in this case, unnecessary. Hell, I've never needed more than 33s till BOTW.
Jeeptude, spend your avail funds on whatever needs upgrading most. It ain't your tires.

 

[043500]

What it all boils down to is most folks (here anyways) seem to think if you don't have the 'perfect setup' you don't belong on the trails...at least not THEIR trails. I tend to laugh at those folks when I wheel with them because they don't really seem to have fun.

Is it SAFE to wheel with an inexperienced 18 year old kid with big lift and big tires...maybe...maybe not. But I love how everyone is an expert when it is spoken about on an internet message board. ESPECIALLY when it's most often the so called 'experienced' drivers who are the dumbest. I;ve seen too many of these 'know-it-alls' on the trails get to an obstacle and keep nailing it until they either break the rig or someone gets hurt.

Now I'm not knocking any one particular person because I know very few folks here on a "FOR REAL" basis. But why do you care if someone doesn;t have the right gear ratio? Give them the advice and move on.

The right/wrong gear ratio doesn't make them unsafe. And having axles that are a little less the qualified for the tires or the terrain doesn't make them unsafe...just means they may break something...big whoop.

As for the safety feature...school them...don't bash them and try to get them to not build something. Show them how to drive it safely instead of poking fun at them or saying things like "I pray for whoever wheels with them"...that's just a pisspoor attitude and to me THAT'S what doesn't belong on the trails.