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3.07 to 4.56

x*BIGASSALEX*j

NAXJA Forum User
Ok guys, so I have 3.07's on mine ;87 Renix manual tranny.
d30 front and d35 rear

I just bought a locker for the front and buying a full axle for the rear with higher gears 3.55's I beleive. Which is also locked with Yukon shafts. I plan to change the gears to 4.56's, now what do I need other then the obvious ring and pinion.

I was told that I need to change the carrier, why cant I use the same one? I have also been doing some research, whats the diffrence between short and reverse and long. Pictures and detailed info will be helpful, since i plan to buy my stuff in 2 weeks.

Also how will this effect my driving on the street, and highway. will it screw up my speedometer?

has anybody else done this swap?

I was thinking of going 4.10 in front and 4.11 in rear, but for a few bucks more I can have 4.56's, better choice right? I think so....thanks
 
right now I have 30's with a 3 inch lift, do plan to go 5 inches in a few months but biggest tires will be 32-33's
 
How much street driving are you going to do? 4.56's and 32-33" is going to suck on the road.

You will need a new carrier. The carrier split for the Dana 30 and D35 is 3.54down/3.73 up meaning there are 2 different carriers. The 3.54down carrier will fit any gears 3.54 and numerically lower, and the 3.73up carrier will fit gears 3.73 and numerically higher.
 
For something street driven the minimum tire size I would use with 4.56's is 35 or 36". Yes your speedometer will be off.
 
Well I dont even drive it now on the street, shes just my trail rig.So how hard is it to change the carrier? Are they expensive. So 32, 33's are not good for street use but on the trail I will kick ass right?


Any other info will help.
 
You really need to do some more research and reading before you dive into this. There is plenty of information all over the internet if you just search for it. It's not hard to swap carriers and set up the ring and pinion but it's something you want to read up on before you do, and if you've never done one before it helps to have someone experienced watching over you as you do it.

Even on the trail you are going to run out of gear very quickly with 4.56's and 33's and you are going to be shifting alot.
And to correct my earlier post, the carrier split on the D35 is 3.33down/3.55up.
 
How about if i go with my original idea of 4.11 in the front and 4.10 in the rear?:huh:
 
I'm just giving my opinion. Read up and see what has worked for other people and see what people are using at the places you wheel. I don't know how you drive or where you wheel so I can't really give you a yes or no answer.
 
MisterFubar said:
For something street driven the minimum tire size I would use with 4.56's is 35 or 36". Yes your speedometer will be off.

I beg to differ, I went from 3:55 to 4:56 from 30" tire to 33" tire. The nominal speed on the fwy has not changed that much if not at all. If you are going to 35" or 36": you would need to up to 4:88.

Yes your speedo will need to be changed but that is a very simple change. You just need to determine what speedo gear that you need. There are quite a few write ups with the calculation and how to change the gear.
 
4.56 will be fine. i run them with a manual and they were great with 32s and 33s as a DD and on the trail. i think you will be upset if you go with 4.10s.

i run 34s now and wish i had deeper gears at times.

have you run this set up MisterFubar? i have had the complete opposite experience that you are describing...
 
Pat said:
4.56 will be fine. i run them with a manual and they were great with 32s and 33s as a DD and on the trail. i think you will be upset if you go with 4.10s.

i run 34s now and wish i had deeper gears at times.

have you run this set up MisterFubar? i have had the complete opposite experience that you are describing...
I am currently running this setup, although it's not on an XJ. I'd rather have my low gearing in the transfer cases, that's just my preference. I actually plan on running 42's(up from the 36's I have now) with my 4.56's. I was running 33's with 3.54's, and then 3.73's. I suppose I shouldn't really compare apples to oranges though as my wheeler rig is a whole different animal than an XJ. Gob's of torque right off idle, a low rev limit, and no overdrive. I like to keep it below 2k at 70.

If and when I make the jump to 33's in my Xj, I'll probably run 4.10's.
 
MisterFubar said:
I am currently running this setup, although it's not on an XJ. I'd rather have my low gearing in the transfer cases, that's just my preference. I actually plan on running 42's(up from the 36's I have now) with my 4.56's. I was running 33's with 3.54's, and then 3.73's. I suppose I shouldn't really compare apples to oranges though as my wheeler rig is a whole different animal than an XJ. Gob's of torque right off idle, a low rev limit, and no overdrive. I like to keep it below 2k at 70.

If and when I make the jump to 33's in my Xj, I'll probably run 4.10's.

So your advice on an XJ forum regarding this topic means what???:doh:
 
well I appreciate everybody input, but everybody is diffrent. So then 4.56 would not be so bad after all. Since I dont drive it on the road, and if I do, it seems Im just going to run into the speedometer issue.

So 4.56 F and R ,locked with Yukon shaft on the 35 will not be a bad set up huh? Now, I have to change carriers, im thinking of doing some junk yard hunting and spotting a 4 cyl and snatching the carriers of that, so i can save some money. Is that good?


Thanks for the help.....

PAT!!!!! do you have pics or any video to share just to convince me, or does anybody else with this set up?
 
I debated this same thing for a long time and I definately made the right decision... I just finished (1 week ago) putting in 4.56s into my XJ with a manual tranny on 33s. I added a truetrack front and Detroit rear, and love it so far. Crawling is way better and freeways are no problem. 4.56s all the way; no regrets. Also, if you are do a full locker instead of a lunchbox locker then you don't need to get a new carrier.

Other things you might need:
-New wheel bearing, seals for the rear (Timken - $26, $6 from Autozone)
-inner seals for the front (dealer - ~$14)
-new speedo gear (dealer - $22)

Good luck!
 
x*BIGASSALEX*j said:
How about if i go with my original idea of 4.11 in the front and 4.10 in the rear?:huh:

good luck finding the 4.11's......:scared:

seriously though....you have to have the same ratio's front and rear.
 
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