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Same issue here. After installing a replacement Dorman actuator from O'Reilly's, it clicks if it's anywhere except one certain position where it seems to want to be. If I remove the actuator, the blend door moves freely, somewhere in the range of 90 degrees. The motor seems to have...

I don't have a tremendous amount of time to devote to the Jeep right now (too many projects), and the Ballistic Fab brackets seem like they could save me a fair amount of time versus fabricating my own brackets (if I can make them work). That's my main motivation for wanting to possibly remove...

MoparManiac -- do you have an idea of how much width Clayton removed from the casting? I'd like to know how far the tube reaches into the casting to have an idea of how much material can be removed safely. I want it to be reasonably strong, but I probably won't be catching any air in it. I'll...

Thanks for the feedback so far. The axle is not a high pinion, so that seems to rule out a couple of the suggested sources mentioned so far. I'll see about trying to find the BOM number on it.

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll try to get that number and check it out. I know what you mean about the welds, the same thing caught my eye. There's approximately 4" of tube between the driver's side leaf spring perch and the booger welds. By the way, I'm running a Rock Krawler 3-link...

I've been searching/researching front D44 options. I'm considering buying a set of D44 axles that are currently under a friend's YJ. The front axle is where my questions are, though. He bought the Jeep with these axles in it, so the origin of them is unknown. Hopefully the pictures below...

It seems like to me, if the PORC part eliminates the need for the Spicer adapter, PORC would be a better way to go than RE. I'd like to utilize this setup on my '99. When I look at the 96+ SYE from PORC, it appears to be a drive flange, just like RE's, so it would still need the Spicer...

Good news and bad... Good news: Clayton's offers adjustable shackles Bad news: They want $159 for the pair!!! It looks like DIY4x is the answer for me!

Thanks for the comments, guys. The DIY4x shackles should be a direct bolt-in, shouldn't they? I also emailed Clayton to see if they sell their shackles separately.

I'm currently running a Skyjacker 3" lift with a Rock Krawler long arm front setup. I'm looking for an additional 1.5"-2" of lift, and I've got some 1.5" coil spacers I'm planning to use in the front. On the rear, I'm currently running a stock shackle, so I'm thinking about going to an...

I haven't looked very closely yet at the bolt to verify, but the guy I talked to at Rock Krawler said the threads were 1/4"-20, so it sounds like they've increased the thread size from the factory. Getting a decent zerk should be easy if that's the route I decide to take.

I'm installing a Rock Krawler 3-link, and I noticed that instead of installing grease zerks in the Krawler joints, they're shipping them with a bolt threaded in where the zerk would be. (I've read all about the zerks being cheap, so this probably isn't a bad thing). Anyway, I called Rock...

Any update? I'll be anxious to see what you think of the Iron Rock setup. I just found out my passenger side upper is broken as well. It looks a lot like the one in the picture in the earlier post.

That's a good idea, I hadn't considered calling RE to see if they'd sell the one mount by itself.

TTT Does anyone know what the correct height of the bushing is from the axle centerline? Since my bracket is bent, I can't measure it to find out what the height is supposed to be. I presume it is supposed to be vertically aligned with the axle tube -- is that correct, or is it tilted at all...

Would the JKS bushing collar work with my stock upper control arms? Does anyone happen to know what the correct height of the bushing is from the axle centerline? I presume it is supposed to be vertically aligned with the axle tube -- is that correct, or is it tilted at all? Thanks

The passenger-side upper control arm mount on my D30 is bent (beyond straightening). I'm looking for a cost-effective repair. I've looked at TNT's truss kit, but it's $159. Is there a cheaper option that would allow me to just replace the one mount that's bent? Thanks

For a '99 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 Auto, I'm looking for the engine idler / tensioner pulley and mounting bolt, a steering gearbox, and a gray door panel insert for the passenger-side rear door. I've also got a Chrysler 8.25 rear end and a Dana 30 non-disconnect frontend with bent mounting brackets...

If it isn't sold, I'd be interested in the idler/tensioner pulley and the steering gearbox. I'm located in southeast, KS. Where are you? Thanks

RedHeep -- was yours the same pulley? Just wondering if your bolt measurements would be the same for mine or not.