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its recommended by manufacturers. I guess it depends how much space you want in the wheel wells for flex. I've seen some low riders on here. I run 31s on 3 inch and i find it perfect. edit: Example. Found on this board. Thats 4.5 inch lift and 31s btw.

4 inch is overkill yes, but 3 inch isn't. its actually whats recommended.

budget?

Better shocks is always a good idea with RC kits unless you dont care like me. I've always driven a truck and always been rough trucks too so I dont notice. I'm going with the 3 inch RC lift with full leaf packs and standard shocks. I know a lot of people care about the ride though but for me...

Sorry now I'm getting confused, I was thinking control arms this whole time then I realized we were talking radius arms so I looked it up to refresh my piss poor memory and this is what I keep seeing.. Is that not a control arm?

The longer the long arms are the better the castor should do, thats why short arms are so bad as you get higher the angle changes more as it drops the same distance. Am I wrong there?

Mostly because of binding when you flex, Staangs Fab's kit seems to work well without binding.

For that price they'd better be bead locks. I run basic crappy tire steelies

Hack and tap with front drive shaft in the rear, I beat on it heavily and never had issues. Buddy of mine is on 37s with the same setup, not sure i'd push it that far but hes waiting to install a Dana 300 so hes just waiting for it to brake so he can use the excuse with his wife. lol

Club/friends is just as good. The only difference in my opinion is people who buy brand new have more money than brains. I can afford brand new axles but it doesnt mean im ever going to use them. In my opinion its a waste of money that I'd rather use elsewhere.

Thats why I made the comparison with specific models so the OP understood that a regular old 1/2 ton from ANY company will not do. The 2010 F150(2004+ i believe) does it but the older ones such as the 1996(as per my example) will not do it safely. At the end of the day the best course of action...

What are you replacing with?

Stopping distance being different by 20 feet wont make a difference unless you're one of those guys that drives on the on ramp until the very last second only to ram on your brakes and cut everyone off so you dont hit the wall. If you drive like a sane person then 20 feet difference 100-0km/h...

The point is for a DD/tow rig, the F150 makes more sense unless we are towing our rig every weekend which I would venture to guess most arent. As for the Diesel, POSJ was making the case for that one. Or thats what I interpreted his posts as.

But hey, its 900$ well spent. Take your time and build everything slowly. If you put truck leafs on it and fab up some mounts you could actually lift your trailer to the same ground clearance as your jeep. :D

Wow yeah thats a very good deal. lol. Good find. I like where hes going with it I was just wondering why someone would PAY for a camper, tear it down then pay more and rebuild it. Now it makes sense. Thanks

Agreed GoSlow, there isn't much of a difference between a 150 and 250 in size so that I can see, but a full 1ton diesel dually would be a huge pain in the ass. I never drove an F250 but I did sit in one in the show room when my dad bought his F150. Even the sales guy said "For the boat you're...

Its an oldsmobile man, the only place they're easy to find IS the junk yard. lol

Ok but what you're forgetting is that for me(and most others) an F150 is a better solution because we dont have to tow our rig every single weekend and therefore dont want to sacrifice so much time, money and sanity DDing a 1ton Diesel around. I've towed my XJ twice, once with a Diesel Dually...

If you're planning on doing any kind of winter wheeling(even november) you might want to check out a spray foam insulation company to come in and just butter the exterior walls. Helps keep in the heat and with a space that small 30 minutes with a small electric space heater and you'd be warm all...