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What he said! The DPG kit isn't meant to replace your factory rubber. It's meant to provide a raised bumpstop for the factory rubber.

Installed a B&M on the wife's XJ as we tow a utility trailer on long trips. I used option 2 for the same reason passxj did - Just like the factory tow option. Tranny -> Rad -> Cooler -> Return No tranny issues whatsoever, but sometimes there's some rough idle/heat soak at the end of a 13 hour...

I used to carry my 20lb CO2 in the back every day. As long as it's strapped in, there's very little danger. If you somehow knock the nozzle off of it, it will become a rocket - just like any pressurized tank. If the safety valve pops while you're inside - get out or open the windows quickly...

N35 and N36 is correct. What do you mean by adjustments? Mine were on BPE's front and rear, and I was not shock limiting at 3.5 w/ 31's or 4.5 w/ 33's. Bumpstops are your friend.

I ran OME LT's on my RE 3.5 and RE 4.5. My kidneys have thanked me endless times for it on the trail and the street. If you go OME, you won't be disappointed - much better riding than stock, even with RE's stiffer springs.

The eBay guy (Mac's tire bin) will tell you to buy-it-now on his 4 tire auction, and then buy the extra from his other auction at 133+shipping. I messaged him a few weeks ago with the same Qestion.

Agreed - was simply responding to the "What do you need spacers for?" I didn't see the first half of the question (where do I get spacers?) I'm running Rubi retainer plates as well, makes life much simpler.

To take up the extra thickness of the drum brake backing plate. Neededto hold the seal in and get the bearing seated in the race.

ZJ and Exploder calipers are interchangeable ZJ and Exploder e-brake shoes and hardware are interchangeable It's the brackets and dust shields that are different. Brakelines are available at the parts store.

53guy, I've got a Rigid front, and hadn't gotten the rear because of the latch. Nice work! I'm sold on it now. I just looked over all the pics in your Fototime, and have some Q's. Is the hinge greasable? sealed? Also, is there anything to keep the swingarm locked open and not slamming...

Yes - longer shackles cause more movement in pinion angle during suspension cycle. No - pinion angle (with an SYE) should be 1 or 2 degrees low. The rear pinion tips up on on spring wrap.

Not surprised it passed inspection - mine have passed for a few years with cable clamps on them. Keep the e-brake hardware clean - they don't return as well after they're full of muck - I left some of the spring on the end of the cables to assist the ebrake hardware.

What year is your XJ? Short vs. long shaft info here. http://www.gotjeep.net/speedo.html

I've been subscribed to this thread for a long time, since it's on my to-do list. The brackets look fairly straightforward. The pics that show halfway down are the same pics as originally posted.

I've done it overnight, twice - except it was wet, muddy clay. Cost me a set of unit bearings and some fluid changes. And I think the 4WD indicator went out shortly thereafter. No big deal, but I don't night wheel anymore without another trail rig around.

I ran the RE3.5 kit for a couple of years. After it settled out, I sat 4" on the nose. RE shackle and spacer put me up to 5".

Half right - the torque load is smoother on an automatic. But breakage isn't the reason to be careful with a Detroit and manual tranny. The detroits tend to load up when you accelerate(moreso with a manual), and they're a little unpredictable when they unload. Is it bad? No, you'll learn to...

What I think Kejtar is referring to is that your post indicated that the diff cover on the Ox made it worth it. OX - $700 Detroit and thick spicer cover - $500 ($600 if you go rock ring or fancy cover) I run an electrac up front and it's holding up fine - but I run a 33" tire on it. Rockken...

Confirm - my rears are mixed crown vic/explorer parts with ZJ rotors.