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I'd hit the tree with the passenger side and call it good! :cool:

It really depends on whether you're looking for a axle to build or one to just change perches. If you regear you will get everything short of shafts new anyway.

I just called Bilstein. The tech I spoke with said it doesn't matter whether the body is top or bottom, the stock will function the same. :thumbup:

I bought mine from Summit Racing but they're only across town for me. Edit: I have 6" Full Traction lift and probably should have gone with 3.75" bs.

IIt's been 6 months since I disassembled the 8.8 for my XJ project. Now, I can't remember the proper orientation of the brake pads. Here they are: My thinking is that the notch goes to the backside of rotation to eliminate the pad from lifting out. Anyone know absolutely which way...

My plan is to use this, facing backwards and filling it with black silicone...

I bought my reamer from CompleteOffroad. http://completeoffroad.com/i-122857-reamer-tie-rod-made-in-u-s-a.html Installing an OTK this weekend.

Backlash should be .005-.009"

I just did this with my D30 front. Bought just the bearings for $25 at napa to make the setup pair.

It's his order system and shipping handling that's very shaky. Couldn't order what I wanted via the web. He said he'd handle it. Order wasn't postmarked until 60 minutes after my phone call to him a week later even though he said 3 days earlier it had been shipped. And, he didn't handle it. I...

These come in the Yukon master rebuild kit. I just finished my second 8.8. One in my full size Bronco and one for my XJ. As for pinion setup bearings, a drill press, brake cylinder hone, oil and time will produce a pretty good set. Hint: grind out the center of the bearing surface so you...

I believe 4.56 is as low as you can go in an 8.25.

I've geared two 8.8's, going to do my third this weekend. It does in fact take patients and attention to detail. I'll be gearing my first D30 in a couple of weeks. One tool I don't see listed that the shop manual calls out is a case spreader (~$250 on ebay). I've borrowed one from a friend but...

Here's what I came up with: Short answer, major brain fart on my part :o. - Instructions state "... needle bearings, common on years 87-89." - Google returned pages showing needle bearings in years about 97-up. - where does that leave my 92 ... I thought :confused: - On my way to work this...

So you're saying that on yours, the difference between the shaft diameter and gear main bore is .310" (2.280" - 1.970")? I can't beleive that. It seems the gear, shaft and chain would self distruct having that kind of slop.

That's my plan. I just hate wasting the whole weekend because of this. :( It's a 231

I just measured the two and the machined surfaces are the same: 1.970" The drive gear with the bearing in assymbled just fine. Hence the confusion on removing them. Edit: It's a '92. The SYE came from Tom Woods packaged with a drive shaft.

Instructions say to remove the needle bearings in the drive gear. Now I've worked on my cars for over 30 years and I am majorly concerned about the drive gear flopping around the machined surface of the new shaft. Can someone give me a valid reason for NOT removing them?

I'm currently installing one in my XJ build. I found it at Nihon Motors (http://www.nihonmotors.com/) in Stockton for $175. They even delivered it to a warehouse in Reno for me. It's out of a 2001 Exploder. Had disk breaks, 3.73 gears and a LS. I'm gearing to 4.88 and an e-locker anyway so...

Hey Michael, Steve from Sun Valley, NV. I Just started my build on Sunday. Nothing done, lots to do. I hope to have it at least road worthy by late November and trail worthy later in winter.