The Lab Rat - SFR's R&D Comanche

[GSequoia]

Did you miss that whole part where I DID drill and tap the case. I assume you're being a bit pedantic and suggesting I use different hardware though. I felt that building it with the proper hardware at the proper torque was the proper way to do it. I also didn't feel like drilling the holes in my brand new output housing larger to accept the wrong hardware.

Not to mention doesn't the tail housing use flange bolts so unless you used cap screws it would be problematic from a clearance perspective?

 

[N8N_99xj]

fair enough.

I meant without helicoils.

I just dislike helicoils. I would much prefer 2 different size bolts on a part that almost never gets unbolted.

That would drive my OCD nuts. I'd rather have a stainless coil in an aluminum casting rather than "bare" threads anyway.

 

[StinkyFab]

Yes, it does use flange bolts, and yes finding proper hardware would have been more difficult than helicoils. Dunno why Taylor dislikes them, they have saved many an engine block. Hell the RockHer2 had helicoils in nearly all the bellhousing bolt holes and all of the motor mount holes thanks to someone not realizing that GM switched to metric hardware somewhere in the early 2000s.

 

[GreenMachine1]

That would drive my OCD nuts. I'd rather have a stainless coil in an aluminum casting rather than "bare" threads anyway.

I agree with this completely. Years ago I did some thread pull - out testing using an Instron with helicoils vs cut threads into cast aluminum. I don't have the data handy right now but the helicoils can withstand far more axial force than cut threads into the cast aluminum. The principle behind this deals with the increased surface area of the helicoils in contact with the base material vs just tapping into the cast aluminum.

 

[rockclimber]

That would drive my OCD nuts. I'd rather have a stainless coil in an aluminum casting rather than "bare" threads anyway.

meh. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

Yes, it does use flange bolts, and yes finding proper hardware would have been more difficult than helicoils. Dunno why Taylor dislikes them, they have saved many an engine block. Hell the RockHer2 had helicoils in nearly all the bellhousing bolt holes and all of the motor mount holes thanks to someone not realizing that GM switched to metric hardware somewhere in the early 2000s.

probably because I have never gotten one to seat right.
and dealing with the poor attempt some grease monkey made at helicoiling the oil pan on my DD made me swear off them forever.

 

[StinkyFab]

Well they are definitely something that can be screwed up, then again there are people that can screw anything up.

 

[GSequoia]

Well they are definitely something that can be screwed up, then again there are people that can screw anything up.

Yes and you work very closely with one of those people that can manage to screw anything up. Even an AW4 transmission. Several times.

 

[StinkyFab]

I hope you're not talking about the guy who just installed my AW4 transmission :dunce:

 

[Bent]

OCD = Observing Critical Details.

 

[Anak]

OCD = Observing Critical Details.

Critical Detail Observation.

More better.

The letters are in alphabetical order, as they should be.

 

[GSequoia]

Critical Detail Observation.

More better.

The letters are in alphabetical order, as they should be.

:thumbup:

 

[Anak]

Not another thumb?!!!

:scared:

:badpc:

:twak:

:rattle:

 

[Bent]

 

[Bent]

... it's an M8x1.25 bolt. No idea what the hole gets tapped out to, as the tap doesn't say on it, but since it comes with the kit it doesn't matter all that much.

It may not be a typical thread diameter and pitch since it would basically be an offset of the inside of the coil. Not that it matters, it was just a thought.
:dunno:

 

[Anak]

I think they are probably not a typical thread diameter.

They will need to have the same TPI as the original thread, but a larger diameter. For instance, a repair for a 1/4-20 would need to be something like a 5/16-20, or a 3/8-16 would need to go to a 7/16-16. Or something like that.

 

[JohnX]

I used a 5/16 insert in an 8mm hole the other day. Insert conformed to the threads cut by the 8mm helicoil tap nicely.

 

[StinkyFab]

ok on to more fun and exciting stuff, like swapping out that rear axle!

Out with the old!

Having a lift really makes this a bit too easy.

Raise it up, toss that old piece of scrap in the corner and roll the axle stand under with the new hotness.

Lower the lift down, swing the springs up, and poof you have a new axle in there.

 

[rockclimber]

yea... about that lift...

 

[StinkyFab]

Now of course simply bolting it in place isn't the end of the job. I still needed brake lines. I had Crown Performance make me up a couple short braided lines for the calipers that match the front lines, but I still needed a hard line to connect the passenger side to the T.

Back in the day I used to make a TON of steel brake lines, and this was the perfect excuse to dig out one of my favorite tools.

In case you don't recognize it that is one of the best line flaring tools money can buy, and it makes a job most people loathe into a simple matter of pulling a lever.

After a little time with my old friend and some 3/16 hard line I finally got everything connected.

 

[StinkyFab]

While I was messing with brake lines Cal was doing the hard work of getting my old 2wd trans out. He's done this job a few times, so I let him bust some knuckles for a while. Seemed like he got the job done pretty well too.

Reason for pulling it out of course was to put in a 4wd transmission, the one I had however is from a newer cherokee and the plugs didn't match. After some exhaustive interweb searching and getting all sorts of different colors and diagrams we looked at what we had and found that all the wire colors were the same, just with different plugs. Cut cut, splice splice, done.

Back to the lift to reinstall. Again I left most of this job to Cal, so not much for me to say, other than it's in and functions as it should.