Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
This is sometime I have been wanting to do for a while, install an oil cooler/heater. For two reasons. 1) It takes much longer than I would like to get the oil up to operating temp, much longer than the coolant. I don't have an over heating issue with the oil though, so its more for the heater portion. Oil needs a minimum temp to get the full benefit from the oil. According to Lake Speed at Joe Gibbs oil he recommends 180* before getting on it and 220* to boil out condensation. 2) If I went with the heat exchanger I would need to relocate the oil filter. This would also allow me to use a much larger filter and easier access. I decided to tackle this while my supercharger manifold is at the welder and machine shop.
The plan is to do this: block --> modified stock 90* filter adapter & bolt --> heat exchanger --> remote adapter --> AN -12 hoses --> remote filter mount and then back.
I plan on running a water to air heat exchanger that sandwiches between the filter (typically) and filter mount. Hesco sells a kit, but I feel its a bit pricy ($187.50) and its a VW cooler/heater and the extended filter mount bolt. The cooler is easy to find but the bolt maybe a custom part as our oil filter bolt mount is recessed about 1/4" into the adapter. I have a 3.25" one and it doesn't seem long enough. Plus I don't know where who makes that cooler, but I know that Dorman does make some replacements. Which I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot stick. After a lot of searching and comparing different oil coolers I have found one that meets most of my requirements. It is made by Dana/Long and the style is used on a lot of modern vehicles. This one in particular was meant for a Dodge Magnum or Chrysler 300. PN 4792912AE. I found a new one with the bolt for $61. The bolt uses the same 3/4"-16 threads. In fact they take the same filter as the XJ, not that this matters much for my use. The only draw back is that the coolant fittings are 5/8" and face toward the rear as mounted in my install. The XJ coolant feed line off the thermostat housing is 3/4". However I will use two 3/4 to 5/8" tees and provide a bit of a bypass between so the stock 3/4" feed line won't be restricted. I haven't gotten to sourcing parts for that yet, but I'm thinking of using a brass PEX tee, which should fit well.
Ideally I would like to have gone with a Mocal/Laminova heat exchanger, but they are a bit over my price range (~$400).
AN -10 lines may have been sufficient but I wanted as little restriction to flow as possible as I will use 90* bent tube an fittings off the filter adapter and a 45* and straigh fitting on the remote filter mount. So I will be using An -12 lines and fittings. The filter bypass adapter that I am using is a Hamburger/Trans-dapt 3320. Its a pretty nice billet piece with some nice flow lines. However, there is some clean up and smoothing out needed which there is plenty of meat on it for. Some time with a die grinder and it will work fine. The filter will be mounted behind the alternator, in front of the passenger side engine mount. There really aren't many options for mounting the remote filter, and I would like to keep it as low as possible to prevent any possible drain back. Sure the filter has an anti drain back valve, but nothing else does. The other option is on the front skid, but I would like to keep the lines as short as possible. I currently have a CV Products CV-745 with has the same threads as the stock filter, 3/4"-16. Which has a .50" opening for the fluid. The stock Wix 51085 or the larger Wix 51515 can me mounted on it or even larger, depending on location. However, I am undecided if I should keep the CV 745 or upgrade tot he larger CV-746 which has 13/16"-16. While the stock ports are around .5" as is the CV-745 the larger 13/16"-16 on the CV-746 may provide less of a pressure drop before it returns back to the block. It will be about $100 or so more provided I can sell the CV -745. I'll have to think about that, opinions?
So some pics:
Filter/adapter side of the heat exchanger.
Block side of the heat exchanger:
CV745 filter mount:
Hamburger 3320 adapter:
Adapters and heat exchanger together:
I also took a look at the stock oil passages and felt there could be some improvement. The main oil galley is ~.5" as is the feed passage from the oil filter adapter. The stock oil adapter bolt ID is .38" diameter and the feed holes in it are .317" diameter. I felt that there was some room for improvement here. Keep in mind that the inner diameter is only half the stork as the oil sees the area as well, which is more important. I opened up the bolt's ID from .38 diameter (area of .1134 square inches) to .468" diameter (.172" sq in area). That is roughly a 65% increase in flow area. I also opened up the feed holes in the bolt from .317" (area of .1578 sq in, there are two) to .365" (area of .209 sq in). I also massaged the oil filter adapter a bit, opening up the port as well as smoothing out the rough edges. Even with out the oil cooler/heater and remote filter mount these modifications should show an improvement. If my block was torn down I would have done some internal modifications to the oil pump to block passages as well as the adapter to galley passage. Maybe in the future. The only thing I am concerned about is how the bolt will hold up since so much material was removed. I will be supporting the rear of the filter adapter/heater/stock adapter to reduce stain on the bolt and stock mount.
Pics of the modifications:
It is not finished and installed yet as I need to do a mock up, decide on fittings and hose lengths, work out the coolant flow, order the rest and install it.
The plan is to do this: block --> modified stock 90* filter adapter & bolt --> heat exchanger --> remote adapter --> AN -12 hoses --> remote filter mount and then back.
I plan on running a water to air heat exchanger that sandwiches between the filter (typically) and filter mount. Hesco sells a kit, but I feel its a bit pricy ($187.50) and its a VW cooler/heater and the extended filter mount bolt. The cooler is easy to find but the bolt maybe a custom part as our oil filter bolt mount is recessed about 1/4" into the adapter. I have a 3.25" one and it doesn't seem long enough. Plus I don't know where who makes that cooler, but I know that Dorman does make some replacements. Which I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot stick. After a lot of searching and comparing different oil coolers I have found one that meets most of my requirements. It is made by Dana/Long and the style is used on a lot of modern vehicles. This one in particular was meant for a Dodge Magnum or Chrysler 300. PN 4792912AE. I found a new one with the bolt for $61. The bolt uses the same 3/4"-16 threads. In fact they take the same filter as the XJ, not that this matters much for my use. The only draw back is that the coolant fittings are 5/8" and face toward the rear as mounted in my install. The XJ coolant feed line off the thermostat housing is 3/4". However I will use two 3/4 to 5/8" tees and provide a bit of a bypass between so the stock 3/4" feed line won't be restricted. I haven't gotten to sourcing parts for that yet, but I'm thinking of using a brass PEX tee, which should fit well.
Ideally I would like to have gone with a Mocal/Laminova heat exchanger, but they are a bit over my price range (~$400).
AN -10 lines may have been sufficient but I wanted as little restriction to flow as possible as I will use 90* bent tube an fittings off the filter adapter and a 45* and straigh fitting on the remote filter mount. So I will be using An -12 lines and fittings. The filter bypass adapter that I am using is a Hamburger/Trans-dapt 3320. Its a pretty nice billet piece with some nice flow lines. However, there is some clean up and smoothing out needed which there is plenty of meat on it for. Some time with a die grinder and it will work fine. The filter will be mounted behind the alternator, in front of the passenger side engine mount. There really aren't many options for mounting the remote filter, and I would like to keep it as low as possible to prevent any possible drain back. Sure the filter has an anti drain back valve, but nothing else does. The other option is on the front skid, but I would like to keep the lines as short as possible. I currently have a CV Products CV-745 with has the same threads as the stock filter, 3/4"-16. Which has a .50" opening for the fluid. The stock Wix 51085 or the larger Wix 51515 can me mounted on it or even larger, depending on location. However, I am undecided if I should keep the CV 745 or upgrade tot he larger CV-746 which has 13/16"-16. While the stock ports are around .5" as is the CV-745 the larger 13/16"-16 on the CV-746 may provide less of a pressure drop before it returns back to the block. It will be about $100 or so more provided I can sell the CV -745. I'll have to think about that, opinions?
So some pics:
Filter/adapter side of the heat exchanger.
Block side of the heat exchanger:
CV745 filter mount:
Hamburger 3320 adapter:
Adapters and heat exchanger together:
I also took a look at the stock oil passages and felt there could be some improvement. The main oil galley is ~.5" as is the feed passage from the oil filter adapter. The stock oil adapter bolt ID is .38" diameter and the feed holes in it are .317" diameter. I felt that there was some room for improvement here. Keep in mind that the inner diameter is only half the stork as the oil sees the area as well, which is more important. I opened up the bolt's ID from .38 diameter (area of .1134 square inches) to .468" diameter (.172" sq in area). That is roughly a 65% increase in flow area. I also opened up the feed holes in the bolt from .317" (area of .1578 sq in, there are two) to .365" (area of .209 sq in). I also massaged the oil filter adapter a bit, opening up the port as well as smoothing out the rough edges. Even with out the oil cooler/heater and remote filter mount these modifications should show an improvement. If my block was torn down I would have done some internal modifications to the oil pump to block passages as well as the adapter to galley passage. Maybe in the future. The only thing I am concerned about is how the bolt will hold up since so much material was removed. I will be supporting the rear of the filter adapter/heater/stock adapter to reduce stain on the bolt and stock mount.
Pics of the modifications:
It is not finished and installed yet as I need to do a mock up, decide on fittings and hose lengths, work out the coolant flow, order the rest and install it.