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IronMan 4x4

Gaius said:
Except when you break the mounting bolt, because it's in single shear...
Click to expand...
That bolt is many times stronger than the stock trac bar tie rod end. Granted a mount designed for double shear from the start would be stronger but this part is obviously designed with an acceptable compromise for cost savings and ease of installation. The end product is plenty strong for it's intended use.
 
Got the control arms on and took it for a test drive. The ride has really smoothed out and it tracks way better when braking. I now need to find a drill big enough to accept the bit he sent me so I can do the track bar.
 
I have a question about my control arm length. I followed a chart that said at 4" of lift the control arms should be 16 3/8" so that's how I set them. I was just looking at it and the wheels are no longer centered in the wheel well. Was the chart wrong? Or is it a non issue.
thanks
 
It is a 3/4" grade 8 stud. He said you drill out the factory mount and bolt it up. Andy also told me that some have spaced it down with spacers if need be to fine tune the angle for steering. He also said that some people will weld the bracket in place once it is set. If I ran something like this I would weld it. He has helped me with all my projects and his fab skills are great!
 
A few pics of the CA's compared to the stock ones as well as one installed. I have still not been able to find some one with a 1/2" drive drill for me to borrow so I can drill the mount for the track bar.



PB060229.jpg



Mounted

PB080230.jpg




I need to adjust my pinion angle. How do I do it using only the LCA's?
 
Khary23 said:
A few pics of the CA's compared to the stock ones as well as one installed. I have still not been able to find some one with a 1/2" drive drill for me to borrow so I can drill the mount for the track bar.



PB060229.jpg



Mounted

PB080230.jpg




I need to adjust my pinion angle. How do I do it using only the LCA's?
Click to expand...

REduce their length. That is why most advise top and bottom adjustables.
 
Khary23 said:
Okay. They are at 16-3/8" now I'm gonna dial em back to 16" and see where that puts the pinion.
Click to expand...

16" is stock length so they will then be too short. as long as your steering linkage(draglink, tierod..) doesnt interfer with the trackbar, swaybar, endlinks....., then does it matter if the tire isnt centered in the wheel well considering the tire is only off center by no more then a 1/4"?

wernt the tires pulled back with the stock arms?

are you adjusting them to 16" because the pinion/caster is off or are you trying to center the tire. IMHO, pinion/caster is more important then having the wheel centered.

as started before, the only way to center the wheel and have proper pinion/caster is to also have adjustable uppers.
 
RCP Phx said:
WTF is that adapter??????????? Thats a joke and extremely dangerous!
Also poly sucks.Send it back now!
Click to expand...


Here's the problem I see with poly joints; poly joints are much harder (which is why they transmit more vibrations) which means they don't flex much. When used in control arms that are much more rigid then stock something has to give when the axle articulates, unfortunately on the Dana 30 that usually means the flimsy mounts. I think most have seen pictures of someone that has ripped a mount off a Dana 30, that's why most manufacturers use a flex joint at one end to reduce the stress.

Not saying they won't work, poly is great for some applications, but if I were you I'd reinforce the control arm mounts.
 
andy is a great guy. i got his upper arms. he personally delivered mine close to my house because he was on his way down i-85.

he knows his stuff and makes great products
 
userbmx1315 said:
andy is a great guy. i got his upper arms. he personally delivered mine close to my house because he was on his way down i-85.

he knows his stuff and makes great products
Click to expand...

I second this. I have his uppers too. Awesome arms. They are SOLID steel too, and pack some weight to them.

PIC-0121.jpg


The blue bushings he uses are top notch bushings, not regular poly bushings like most kits. They are tapered for better flex and plus actually have grease veins for the grease to get all around the bushing. They are also VERY tight bushing, which you want in the trackbar to prevent any play.

I asked about his trackbar double sheer bracket and he recommended me to weld it on, but it can be run without being welded.

Anyone got the pictures of the trackbar installed?
 
so has anyone taken these off road yet? how do they flex compared to stock?
 
jeeperjohn said:
Your caster is more important than the pinion angle because of death wobble if the caster is out. You may be able to find a compromise somewhere in between.
Click to expand...


This statement does not make sense to me....in essence, pinion angle and caster are the same (for purposes of tracking and DW). You cant adjust caster without affecting pinion angle and vice versa (unless you cut and rotate the inner C's). Correct me if I am wrong.
 
I have Andy's Long Arms. They are perfect. They are beefy, and you WILL NOT be able to damage them on a Cherokee. I've had the entire weight of the front of the vehicle on the pass side arm on a rock. Anyone that speaks poorly of Andy's work has not even seen his work.
553344_10150932552444811_467811817_n.jpg
 
2001XJ said:
This statement does not make sense to me....in essence, pinion angle and caster are the same (for purposes of tracking and DW). You cant adjust caster without affecting pinion angle and vice versa (unless you cut and rotate the inner C's). Correct me if I am wrong.
Click to expand...

I believe that's exactly what Jeeperjohn is saying. Since caster and pinion angle are affecting each other directly, you'd have to find an angle that is a compromise. I.e. caster is not too far off but still acceptable and pinion angle is acceptable. Otherwise if you were able to adjust each independently such as you suggested (re-positioning the c's) then you wouldn't have to compromise.
 
I have adjusted my front pinion angle very carefully and it is only like 2* or so.as for my caster?...hell it must be about 2-3 using the angle finder method off the diff cover...Do I have death wobble? HELL no..and the wheel still returns to center.I have no vibes up to 85 mph after that?..any ways I have his track bar.Andy does some very excellent work.I went to him personally to get the track bar...he made some measurements and it was ready a few days later...I litteraly bolted it in no need to even move the steering back and forth!!!! bye the way he used a cardboard templet to set it.
:shhh:
 
muddeprived said:
I second this. I have his uppers too. Awesome arms. They are SOLID steel too, and pack some weight to them.

PIC-0121.jpg


The blue bushings he uses are top notch bushings, not regular poly bushings like most kits. They are tapered for better flex and plus actually have grease veins for the grease to get all around the bushing. They are also VERY tight bushing, which you want in the trackbar to prevent any play.

I asked about his trackbar double sheer bracket and he recommended me to weld it on, but it can be run without being welded.

Anyone got the pictures of the trackbar installed?
Click to expand...

Just saw this three years later lol. I'll take a pic tomorrow
 
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