EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
I'm glad I'm keeping my opinions out of this thread. :roflmao:
-
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Y-linked long arms?
- Thread starter btowncrwalers
- Start date
Any thoughts on using the upper cast mount on a 3 link?
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
No reason you can't.
Just replace the bushing with a joint (a'la RockKrawler or Currie) and have at it.
Joe
Just replace the bushing with a joint (a'la RockKrawler or Currie) and have at it.
Joe
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
The mount should be strong enough wth a good joint. I don't really see a situation where you'd use that mount, well I guess you could. If you're being thoughtful enough to do a 3 link on a D30, you're going to want to truss the housing, and once you truss the housing you can make your own mount or buy one. If you're going to do that (which you should) then you really should take advantage of the opportunity to raise the upper control arm mount for better anti-dive and handling. And, I'm sure you realize you'd have to reinforce or make a new frame side UCA mount.
Darky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- 29 Palms, CA
Oh...when you saidNot really there darky...
Show me where clayton posts onROFL!!! Next time mind your own business. Children...
supporter, I figured you meant ya know, someone who has paid to support our site as a sponsor, which both Clayton's and TNT have. And when you post on a public forum, it's everyone's business. You want some semblance of privacy, take it back channel. Oh yeah, nominated.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Sorry for the delayed response. My experience is similar to Eric's, there is no sudden or rapid unloading while climbing with the Y-Link setup. I wheel on a variety of terrain....slickrock ledges, boulders, washes and sand.
Controlling this with a winch to the axle is a great solution on a rig with any version of a linked front suspension, but can also be accomplished with a center mounted limit strap that is slightly longer that your static height.
This will still allow your axle to articulate, but will limit the amount your suspension can unload when climbing. Hook it up when you need it, snap it off when you're done. I welded a tab to the center of my trackbar brace/under-motor crossmember for this purpose, but have yet to hook a strap to it.
Goatman has used this setup in the past with success, fwiw.
winkosmosis
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Maui, Hawaii
Isn't the unloading because of the geometry of the suspension? Similar to anti-dive, etc. How does limiting suspension travel change anything?
Deadman 94 xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
Oh...when you said
Oh yeah, nominated.
OH NOs! Now the kids on
are gona talk about me!
Please. (Back on topic)
Deadman 94 xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
They do the same thing on rear wishbone setups (or wristed 3-links). I've also seen this done on some rear 4-links.
89eliminator
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Delphi, IN
by having a center mounted limiting strap slightly longer than static ride height, you stop the unloading because the whole axle cannot drop as far. and with the center mount, you still retain the full suspension articulation.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Not totally, or even mostly. Unloading on climbs is the result of weight transferring off the front suspension, so the springs push all the way out further increasing the weight transfer and the front end floats. Easiest way to eliminate this is to hook a winch line tothe axle and suck it up.....keeps weight on the springs by compressing the suspension and won't let it unload.
A center limit strap can do some of the same, by not letting the springs push all the way out so the suspenson isn't all the way extended on a climb. I did this on my XJ by flexing the front end both sides and measuring the drop of the center of the axle, which isn't very much when flexed out, and making the limit strap that length. So, no loss of articulation but it limited unloading on climbs. This does limit go fast ability if you don't unhook the strap since it won't let the axle drop all the way out. I actually ended up using two straps, one from the bottom of each frame rail to the center of the axle, no twist in the straps was all the way dropped out, one twist and it didn't limit articulation, two twists and it kept the axle close to ride height on steep climbs.
No one knows conclusively why long arms unload more than short arms, but my theory is that the weight of the axle still exerts some downforce on the chassis when the weight transfers back on steep climbs. Short arms pull down on the chassis further forward than long arms do, and so there is simply more weight on the front end. Long arms attach way back and so the axle weight doesn't pull down the same as with short arms, allowing the front end to float more. Again, sucking down with a winch or a short limit strap adds the weight and so limits weight transfer and unloading.
LOL @ DeadmanXJ.
I was going to go with TNT's but after the slow responses I received I was afraid that their customer service was lacking.
I fell into a great deal on Claytons LA's so I got those instead. We will see how much the lower mounted arms hold me up. Ive heard it isnt nearly as bad as I think it is but what do I know.
I just hope the I dont get stuck at the mall hopping the parking curbs.
I was going to go with TNT's but after the slow responses I received I was afraid that their customer service was lacking.
I fell into a great deal on Claytons LA's so I got those instead. We will see how much the lower mounted arms hold me up. Ive heard it isnt nearly as bad as I think it is but what do I know.
I just hope the I dont get stuck at the mall hopping the parking curbs.
Deadman 94 xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburgh, PA
You'll be fine.
redrider2911
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Yakima, WA
Y links or raidius arms also limit the flex you can achieve if that is what you are going for. With a radius arm setup only the joints on the frame side take up the misalignment since the axle mount are triangulated and otherwise stationary. With a true 3 link the joints on both ends can twist and wont bind since it as 3 individual long arms with its own links on each side and own mounts.
redrider2911
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Yakima, WA
not only that but they are a pain to adjust! You have to drop the frame side of the arm, loosen the jam nut, adjust where you think you want it, tighten the jam nut, then fidget the thing around to get it back lined up in the mount. Then if you realize you've gone too far you have to do it all over again. With my setup you just loosen the jam nuts on both ends, turn the arm like a turn buckle till you get it where you want, then tighten the jam nuts back down. I dont know if that makes a difference to you but maybe im just lazy... Lol
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Hmmm, I adjusted my once. Pain level of 2 on a 1-10 scale......:roflmao:
You know it.
My RE short arms are pretty scratched up and the frame side LCA mounts are beat to hell. I want to get all the ground clearance I can, at the arms and belly pan, so I'll stick with TnT.
Speaking of which, I sent a PM to TnTcustoms on Jeep Forum yesterday and got an answer back within a few hours. I'd say the service is pretty good.
Hopefully their y-link will hold up better than the tie rod I bought from them, which bent on its first run, the day after I installed it lol.
Glad you had a good experience. It took them alot longer to get back to me via jeepforum and through the website. One sales rep never returned my email at all. In the end it cost them a customer. Customer service is king in my book no matter what product a company sells. If I hadn't got the price I did on the NIB claytons I would be ordering joits and building a 3 link.
Again, good luck. I'm sure you will be happy with the product.
Again, good luck. I'm sure you will be happy with the product.
