OK, time for you to start listening. First off, all of the first comments to you in this thread were good advice. However, the only comment you gave credibility too was the one about homemade BPE's for the rear, which effectively lengthen the rear shocks. However, you had just said that you had shocks for a taller lift and you'd just dropped it 2", so if the shocks are limiting your travel it's because they would already be too long.....making them longer by adding the BPE would be going backwards. So, no offense meant, but you better start listening, or quit posting and just go do your own thing.
First, you NEED to disconnect the front sway bar. We'll all tell you that. We don't want to hear what you think, you already don't know what you're doing. You want more flex, which means more overall flex, so you need to disconnect the sway bar. Then you need to find someplace to flex it so you can get a tire off the ground.....it doesn't matter which one. Look at the shocks at all four corners and see what they're doing, but you need to know the fully extended measurement before you do this so you can tell if they're maxed out. See if any shock is fully compressed or fully extended so you know if a shock is limting the travel. See if you're hitting the bumpstops. Check out if the front LCA is bottoming against the shock/arm mount, and grind some away if needed. make sure all your brake lines are OK, but with what you have they should be fine.
Do NOT go back to the shorter shackle, do NOT weaken the springs and put a block back in. You're trying to get more flex so you can get better performance without any lockers, going to softer rear springs and blocks will just get you a bunch of axle wrap, and since you're unemployed right now you won't be able to afford a new rear pinion yoke and u-joint when the springs wrap so much that the rear yoke binds and breaks.
So, disconnect the sway bar, flex to max, look and see what's hitting, and figure a way to deal with it. And listen. We're all glad to help.