Stupid stroker questions

I recently began toying with the idea of stroking instead of using my 350.
Ive been digging through the tons of info I've found but I have 2 questions.

I read that 96 blocks are stronger Is this for 96+ blocks or just 96?
Whats the actuall year for this block change?
And I have a renix in my jeep now will I have to get a HO wiringharness/computer?
Does it run better with the HO computer?

I'm sure I'll have more stupid questions, thanks!

I can't help you on the questions, but I would suggest you check out this website
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/

if should have all the answers for you, and plenty of reading to boot. I have some parts I want to eventually put into a stroker, I've been reading and researching on there for a few months, and will do a few more before I even think about getting into it for good.

good luck.

Yeah I stumbled on that site. Been digging through it theres crapload of info there.

If I read correctly I think I can stroke a HO and still use my Renix electronics please correct me if I'm wrong. This would leave just my stronger block question

In 96 the block was strengthened by adding ribs to the mains and adding a main girdle to tie the main caps together to reduce the vibrations/harmonics in the block. This is found in 96+ blocks.
Some say that the renix blocks are stronger though.

not sure about the computer stuff.

alex22 said:

In 96 the block was strengthened by adding ribs to the mains and adding a main girdle to tie the main caps together to reduce the vibrations/harmonics in the block. This is found in 96+ blocks.
Some say that the renix blocks are stronger though.

not sure about the computer stuff.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip...

Anyone know if I can run an HO stroker with renix electronics?

That main girdle isn't anything to write home about. Mine was broken when I built my stroker and the only reason I put one back on was that it was only like $17 at the dealer lol. Its thin and cheezy and you have to shim it to clear the rods on a stroker. IIRC the block upgrades and the main girdle for for NVH reasons(noise vibration Harshness?) not strength.

The only drawback of using the later block with the Renix computer is that the hole for the ping sensor is not drilled and tapped on the newer block.

I prefer the Renix computer on a stroker because it has a ping sensor. By getting the quench height adjusted correctly, I am able to run 10.4:1 compression with regular gas and no ping. I get 21mpg on the highway.

old_man said:

The only drawback of using the later block with the Renix computer is that the hole for the ping sensor is not drilled and tapped on the newer block.

I prefer the Renix computer on a stroker because it has a ping sensor. By getting the quench height adjusted correctly, I am able to run 10.4:1 compression with regular gas and no ping. I get 21mpg on the highway.

Click to expand...

So this and the TPS mod will cover everything?

Don't forget to use the Renix flex plate and not the newer one. You also need to look into using the right pilot bearing in the tranny end of the crank if you are running a stick.

Thanks old man whats your opinion on the 96+ block?

I've always read that it is best to use the Renix block. The HO head and intake are better.
Weather you use a complete HO motor, or the HO intake/head, it can be done with Renix electronics. It is said that the Renix computer is more adaptable to mods than the OBD systems(and it is also much easier to adapt than to swap the entire wire harness to run an OBD system). The use of the HO intake makes it impossible to retain the EGR system, which is considered emissions equipment. The HO intake manifold does not have a hole for the valve to screw into. If one uses this HO intake, one must also use a HO header, or modify the Renix header by closing the hole that the EGR tube is supposed to go into. I have a 1993 4.0 running on Renix, I'm using the HO intake, and a modified aftermarket header made for the Renix engine. If my Renix block is undamaged, and I get some cash, I intend to use it for my stroker with the 93's head and intake.
Running the HO engine on Renix electronics is explained in detail quite often on Mod-tech, and there is a recent thread on this board reguarding the TPS adaptation required to use the HO intake on the Renix system. If you're swapping an HO head/intake onto a Renix block, this should be all you need to do. I'm not sure if the temp guage sensor in the head will swap, as I bastardized my guage cluster to include the temp guage from the HO XJ in place of the idiot light that I had.

Whatever you decide to do, I will gladly offer advise on adapting things to work with Renix.

-the guy with a 4.0 High Output in an '87

FWIW, my "idealised" stroker recipe:

RENIX Electronics.
RENIX Block
1996-up mains brace & studs
7120 cylinder head
1999-up "ram's horns" intake
Aftermarket header
12-cw 258ci crankshaft.

The RENIX electronics tend to be more adaptable than the HO, and I don't care for OBD anyhow. I can handle OBD-II, but OBD-I is a pain (of course it is, OBD-I was spec'd by CARB.)
The RENIX block, knowing AMC, was cast with a higher nickel content than the Chrysler castings - nickel makes iron tougher.
The later mains brace can be used with the earlier caps, so that's no trouble. If I have to, I can make a mains brace.
The 7120 head is, according to consensus, the best-flowing head going and the most responsive to "massaging."
Likewise the 1999-up intake.
The 12-cw crank is primarly because I prefer to drive a stick, and the extra rotating inertia can make for smoother takeoffs (especially when laden.)

old_man said:

Don't forget to use the Renix flex plate and not the newer one. You also need to look into using the right pilot bearing in the tranny end of the crank if you are running a stick.

Click to expand...

X2 this exact issue caused me to be held up on my install for a week. (disclaimer: I only worked on it on Sundays and Wed. nights.) What I found is the 4.2 cranks has steel ring in there instead of a bearing. Slide hammer it untill it's out and tap in the new bearing out of whatever year XJ you are using.

Also do the reasearch on your crank. Some where a little longer and require 1cm to be cut off. You can also get a spacer from Hesco for like 35 bucks. I just used some hardened washers for now. Fits like a glove now.

If you have a Renix motor and use 96+ head, intake, and TB etc, you will have to get the new style speedo cable. About $50 bucks from the stealership. Also the fuel lines to a 96 fuel rail, and an 89 fuel lines don't match up. The clips are different and they are way short. I spliced in some fuel line and just hose clamped onto the fuel rail. No leaks works great.

Also if you us the 96+ TB it was well worth the money for the Hesco adaptor. By the time you get the the point of hooking all that little stuff up you are going to be so excited about hearing it run, that the bolt on adaptor is worth it in my book.

Since you have it out and you have to remove the clutch assembly, save yourself some coin and have them rebuilt. I got mine clutch, and pressure plate rebuilt to a metallic button clutch, and had the flywheel resurfaced for $230 bucks. Way cheaper than Centerforce for a better end result. Love the way it feels now compared to the oem clutch.

Get the quench to .045. Once that number is there it makes alot of other build desisions much easier.

I think the guys name is Oleshot on Jeepstrokers but he will dish the pistons for you for like 75 bucks. Hell of a deal on that.

Though I would give you a few things I ran into on my build. FWIW I just finished my renix 4.6 and couldn't be happier with it. Much easier a swap than a v-8 and just about the same amount of power. If I were to do it again I would have done the 4.7 it was no cost more in machining or parts. When you order the pistons you spec in .030, .040, etc. The machine shop charges you per hole to bore it so no money lost there either.



Parakeet

Thanks everyone for the tips and information. It has been very helpfull

what year is the 7120 head out of?

91-95

IIRC it is the 98+ Look in Jeepstrokers FAQ they have a section for heads. Tells all about the casting numbers what years and vehicles they were used on. Helped me figure out the 92 motor I bought for the top end was actually a 96-98.

The cheapest cam and lifters I found was the Lunati. For the cam and lifters it was right at 200 and it works really well as far as I'm concerned.


I'm hoping to have mine dyno'ed before the end of the summer so I'll let you guys know what the numbers are.



Parakeet

4wdParakeet said:

IIRC it is the 98+

Click to expand...

nope... 2686 = 87-90, 7120 = 91-95, 0630 = 96-99, 0331 = 00-01

Lol just saw this on the stroker forum guess I should of came back here =]