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Turbo questions
- Thread starter Luke95
- Start date
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
Yes, as long as the factory WG port can flow enough to maintain 6psi. An external WG would be ideal, but you should be able to get the factory internal gate to work.
However you will more than likely need to pick up a new actuator valve as the factory valve's spring pressure will make it hard to dial in 6psi.
Glad to hear more people are taking on the challenge! :worship:
It will be a long time till its done, Im thinking a year to 6 months.
Now with your setup are you having any issues like over heating and that kind of thing?
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
There have only been a couple times when it got unusually hot, but those were unusual circumstances as well (Such as cruising up the mountains in 100deg heat with the A/C blasting). Since then I've swapped to an all aluminum radiator and threw on some hood spacers and haven't had a problem.
To date the biggest issue we've had is the auto trans. I was running the factory trans for about a year before It started to slip. If you have an auto I highly recommend upgrading the valve body from the get go. It will save your clutches.
If your running a manual trans however, an upgraded clutch should be enough.
To date the biggest issue we've had is the auto trans. I was running the factory trans for about a year before It started to slip. If you have an auto I highly recommend upgrading the valve body from the get go. It will save your clutches.
If your running a manual trans however, an upgraded clutch should be enough.
It will most likely be a manual when the auto starts to go.
With the tuning did you run into any issues?
I see you used 42lb injectors isnt that a bit big?
Also With the HX35 in factory forum when/were will I see it start to build boost? :worship:
PseudoSport
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hanover, MA
I wish we had 42lbs injectors. Our 36lbs are just about maxed out. If we lowered the boost to around 6-7 they would be fine.
wookieintheforest
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Quinlan,TX
I have an HX35 with a modded stock actuator and i can go as low as i want with a ported gate. Currently I have boost set at 3 psi while i beat out the bugs with the MS install.
I see boost *roughly* @ 2000 on the stock system. I can confirm that once MS is in place.
As for tuning what were your looking at using?
I see boost *roughly* @ 2000 on the stock system. I can confirm that once MS is in place.
As for tuning what were your looking at using?
Um about that, I thought I had it down, not so much any more. :twak:
Im looking at trying to trick the map sensor and running some 36 or 30 lb injectors as Im looking for only 5-8 lbs of boost
I read on pirate that some people used a GM 2 bar map and some 36 lb injectors but I dont know how that will carry over as it was an OBDI not OBDII system
Im looking at trying to trick the map sensor and running some 36 or 30 lb injectors as Im looking for only 5-8 lbs of boost
I read on pirate that some people used a GM 2 bar map and some 36 lb injectors but I dont know how that will carry over as it was an OBDI not OBDII system
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wookieintheforest
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Quinlan,TX
It can work but, not very well. You scaling will be off and though it will run, it will be bad at best. I have seen it done and it is a hack. Better off with a RRR. At least with that you can kinda stay close to good.
But if you end up spending too much money you could bought a MS!
But if you end up spending too much money you could bought a MS!
What is RRR?
And it seemed to work well on several pirate builds, but they are pirate builds.
With a MS is their a plug in and start to tune option or will I be splicing?
wookieintheforest
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Quinlan,TX
RRR = rising rate regulator
For every one pound of boost fuel pressure is raised by "x". Typically 5-10 psi of fuel per psi of boost. They cost around 200-300 which puts you most of the way to a ms that gives you full control of your tuning. They can be found for cheaper but so can an ms1 which is fuel only...
As for ms install it can be done using what's called a BOB ( break out box) that houses your ecu's style connector. So your harness becomes plug and play. More money but less work. Once you configure your setup then you can tune. But your question requires more info for a complete answer. Renix crank triggers are supported second gen are not afaik so you would have to to pseudo sports mod or a crank trigger on the pulley or a renix flex install. What vehicle do you have?
For every one pound of boost fuel pressure is raised by "x". Typically 5-10 psi of fuel per psi of boost. They cost around 200-300 which puts you most of the way to a ms that gives you full control of your tuning. They can be found for cheaper but so can an ms1 which is fuel only...
As for ms install it can be done using what's called a BOB ( break out box) that houses your ecu's style connector. So your harness becomes plug and play. More money but less work. Once you configure your setup then you can tune. But your question requires more info for a complete answer. Renix crank triggers are supported second gen are not afaik so you would have to to pseudo sports mod or a crank trigger on the pulley or a renix flex install. What vehicle do you have?
wookieintheforest
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Quinlan,TX
It most certainly will work! But keep in mind if bought new it can be = $ of a standalone (ms). If you are getting a smoking deal, DO IT!
6 psi is not a problem. Several people on here are well past that point. Just make sure you have a wideband 02 before you get to far along.
6 psi is not a problem. Several people on here are well past that point. Just make sure you have a wideband 02 before you get to far along.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Use an AEM FIC6, FIC8, or get a custom tune on the PCM. [email protected] or [email protected] can do it with larger injectors and a 2 bar map sensor. Do not try to use the stock MAP or a 2 bar MAP with the stock PCM or you will need some replacement pistons soon.
Around 150 for one....
So with the mega squirt forgive me but what is involved with tuning?
And id have to adapt a Renix crank triggers,I have a whole renix engine infact this is what the base for the turbo motor will be. my 220K 4.0 is having low oil pressure and being in general sluggish. So im going to swap in my 135k engine with a new head gasket and maybe some other small work done to it. :eeks1:
wookieintheforest
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Quinlan,TX
Tuning a ms can be an all on you affair or you could get EFI Analytics software aka TunerStudio and let it fine tune your base table that you input. Whether that was by someone else's file you uploaded or a base table you made. It has all sorts of cool features for the full version. Go to there website and read.
Given that you have a renix short block to drop in makes ms easier to install. I looked at adding a trigger wheel, hell I bought one, then someone figured out how to make the renix pattern work. Adding a trigger wheel can be done, look at hesco's crank pulleys with trigger pattern and lights go off in your head. So a ms install later is do-able by two means. First by renix flex or trigger wheel added to the crank pulley later.
The main concern IMHO is $. I hog traded and swapped parts I had laying around for two years to get all my stuff together, then again I squeeze pennies so hard even cheapskate says "damn!".
As for your old motor put a mechanic's test gauge on it to verify low oil pressure. Those sending units and the dash gauge are not the greatest.
Given that you have a renix short block to drop in makes ms easier to install. I looked at adding a trigger wheel, hell I bought one, then someone figured out how to make the renix pattern work. Adding a trigger wheel can be done, look at hesco's crank pulleys with trigger pattern and lights go off in your head. So a ms install later is do-able by two means. First by renix flex or trigger wheel added to the crank pulley later.
The main concern IMHO is $. I hog traded and swapped parts I had laying around for two years to get all my stuff together, then again I squeeze pennies so hard even cheapskate says "damn!".
As for your old motor put a mechanic's test gauge on it to verify low oil pressure. Those sending units and the dash gauge are not the greatest.
wookieintheforest
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Quinlan,TX
RRR=FMU
Cheap and easy FTW! Get a wideband though... it is a must have
Cheap and easy FTW! Get a wideband though... it is a must have
wookieintheforest
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Quinlan,TX
Well, two easy ways to go here.
1) Run an aluminum -6an(or whatever size) line (summit or whomever) from front to back to use as your new supply. Use your old supply as the return.
2) Use high pressure fuel hose of some sort (don't cut corners you will eventually will have a leak) and use it as the new supply or as the return.
Plumbing into the tank has been done multiple ways. Check neons.org etc...
The choice for me was based on cost and overall power goal. Aluminum line is cheaper and i already have the an flare tool. but that is not a big deal since you can use a steel fitting to flare it for you.
dave b
1) Run an aluminum -6an(or whatever size) line (summit or whomever) from front to back to use as your new supply. Use your old supply as the return.
2) Use high pressure fuel hose of some sort (don't cut corners you will eventually will have a leak) and use it as the new supply or as the return.
Plumbing into the tank has been done multiple ways. Check neons.org etc...
The choice for me was based on cost and overall power goal. Aluminum line is cheaper and i already have the an flare tool. but that is not a big deal since you can use a steel fitting to flare it for you.
dave b
