When I first started using the high rpm trick to unstick the lifters, I used 3500 rpm and held it there for about 3 minutes, doing it only when the engine was fully heated up to operating temp.
I later upped that to 4000 then later 4500 rpm. At 4500 rpm it would take far less time for the engine go to silent (figuratively speaking), no lifter tick. It would take maybe 10 seconds, instead of 3 minutes!!!!
But mine had been run at under 1500 rpm for years with a bad TPS that never let if get over 1500 rpm till it hit 60 mph in 4th gear, that I am sure the engine had issues from not being opened up at high rpms, so I did not push my luck in the early days of pushing the unloaded RPMs over 3500. I used the engine noise as a guide as to high I could push the rpms in the early days. I learned the high rpm trick from an old timer here years ago, 5-90 was his alias. I was also told by my first mechanic mentor in the early 1970s of the need to open and rev engines to blow out and burn out carbon build up in the engines from heavy stop and go city driving, and keep the engine from developing wear and piston/cylinder wear memory issues from not pushing the engines hard once in a while.. Long story there...
Now it only takes 5-10 seconds at 3500 rpm to stop the lifter noise, when it decides to flare up on a cold morning start. But I do like to run it up to 4500 after the tick stops, or if it is slow to stop. One other thing I have noticed is that stomping on the gas to rev it as fast as possible seems to work faster. My suspect is that rapid momentum shift throws the lifters back to rotating faster, easier to force them to rotate with the cam lobes slapping the lifter harder on rapid acceleration and decel cycling.
The lifter faces and the cam lobes are not perfectly flat, they have a slight angle on the faces designed to force the lifters to rotate. If they get stuck from varnish, carbon, gum deposit build up, the lack of rotation makes them noisy. This is different from a collapsed lifter. I am under the impression a collapsed lifter does not open the valves all the way, and would likely be obvious on visual inspection on the engine running with the valve cover off.
BTW, I recall using MMO, and PB blaster on my exposed valves and lifters when I had the valve cover off, but that was after years of using the high RPM trick to stop the sticking noisy lifters before I drove the jeep daily for 70,000 miles the last 13 years. I am not using just 20W50 Supertech Walmart oil, no additives.
Opps, forgot, I did use a bottle Restore about once a year for 5 years up until about 2 years ago on this beast. It may have helped some with the lifter issue!!! It actually plates out a colloidal silver-copper-lead alloy onto worn wear areas to improve compression and ring sealing, etc. So it may have helped repair the bearing surfaces of my lifters, the cam lobes, etc..... I do know it can repair hot spot wear areas on cylinder walls for instance, Seen that personally on a ford Vulcan 3.0 engine we did head jobs on twice!!!!! It is in a silver can. Never seen any other product like it on the market. It is not a five minute fix. But over time I measured a significant increase in compression on 2 engines of mine.
But it was not an over night process in the early days. No idea if using MMO and PB blaster on the valve train direclty, and going directly to 4500 rpm would have speed up getting to long periods of quite start ups with little or no tick, but most of the others here the last 3 years that have tried, got almost immediate results with the high rpm, till it stops making noise trick. And then only occasionally had to slap it (LOL) again.
From the sound of yours, its pretty bad from that video, so you may have a bad piston or wrist pin....issue. You should try pulling a spark plug wire, one cylinder at a time to locate the cylinder. If the noise changes when you disconet the spark plug wire, its more than just lifter tick on that one, I am told. I think old_man mentioned it here earlier!!