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Project Downward Spiral
- Thread starter RCman
- Start date
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
For those of you wanting pictures here you go. Obviously I've still got to do the truss tie-in.
How much shihpped to 29550?
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Not too shabby Bill, I like it. Too bad you're stuck with that lip underneth.
to bad bill's been wheelin and your axles are still on jackstands:shhh:
- Location
- Dracut, MA
get that Jeep out of the garage and get it painted before next Sunday!! :thumbup:
Ha! A lot, after the amount of fitting it took, I can say for sure I won't be doing another.
The lip is minor, IMO.
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:We'll see. We'll see.
Dundy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taunton, MA
1/4-20's tapped into the bottom of the axle...who needs countersinks...
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
1/4-20s are overkill.
Leave those for suspension joints.
Leave those for suspension joints.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Sweet.
Answer your goddamn phone.
Answer your goddamn phone.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
:thumbup:
I've been having a problem keeping the 'H' blocks in place on my front brakes. Loosing them causing the caliper to ride inside the wheel and costs me $14 each time. Needless to say after two consecutive trips losing them it gets old quick.
My main issue is I couldn't run the original bolt because of wheel clearance. So I'm running a flat head socket cap screw in its place. This works great while crawling but when I start to pick up any speed for an extended period of time, they bounce out. I believe they are getting lost because the stock blocks only capture about 1/3 the head of the bolt. My solution? Add more material and capture the whole head.
Thankfully they are just cast steel and I can weld to them.
Here you can see the stock configuration in the wheel:
Here is one modified 'H' block (pass side) on the left and a stock on the right. The odd curves are just so it follows the caliper bracket, nothing more.
Modified block in place:
Hopefully this works and solves my problem. I'll report back after a few runs.
My main issue is I couldn't run the original bolt because of wheel clearance. So I'm running a flat head socket cap screw in its place. This works great while crawling but when I start to pick up any speed for an extended period of time, they bounce out. I believe they are getting lost because the stock blocks only capture about 1/3 the head of the bolt. My solution? Add more material and capture the whole head.
Thankfully they are just cast steel and I can weld to them.
Here you can see the stock configuration in the wheel:
Here is one modified 'H' block (pass side) on the left and a stock on the right. The odd curves are just so it follows the caliper bracket, nothing more.
Modified block in place:
Hopefully this works and solves my problem. I'll report back after a few runs.
billyjp2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indian Orchard MA
sounds good, lets go on a few runs. :guitar:
knucklehead 61
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cottage Grove, Oregon
i did the same mod to the blocks on my heep except i just tig'ed 1/2 a flat washer to the block. it worked great.
These have been done for awhile now, but I had a question on another forum about them so since I loaded them up I'll put them here too. Finally I have rear lights (running and brake) besides just that middle one on the hatch. I'm not sure why I didn't do it sooner, I think it looks complete now that there isn't that void in the two tubes as they come together in the back.
POSJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minot ND, Unfortunately
That looks bad ass, I like them mounted at that angle...
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
Are they bright enough to see the turn signals during the day?
I don't remember what I have now, but my old Farmboy light boxes had small turn signals that were hard to see during the day.
I don't remember what I have now, but my old Farmboy light boxes had small turn signals that were hard to see during the day.
