5.3L Vortec V8 Conversion

I was stressin' a bit.

With a little luck I'll be ready for some wheelin' in the next week or so. Yes there will be pics, videos and possibly some manly V8 bragging to boot!

Stay tuned.

Frank Z said:

I was stressin' a bit.

With a little luck I'll be ready for some wheelin' in the next week or so. Yes there will be pics, videos and possibly some manly V8 bragging to boot!

Stay tuned.

Click to expand...

My first real test was a couple weeks ago. I was worried everytime I heard a crunch or pop. I kept getting out to check, but it had plenty of clearance. My flares on the otherhand, not enough clearance...

John D said:

My first real test was a couple weeks ago. I was worried everytime I heard a crunch or pop. I kept getting out to check, but it had plenty of clearance. My flares on the otherhand, not enough clearance...

Click to expand...

hehe break out the sawzall baby!:guitar:

Worked on the gauges today, a few more solder joints and I can button up the dash.

Started with a piece of 1/8" Aluminum.


Prettied it up a little.


Viola'!!

Looks good Frank!

I like it! But I think the aluminum would look better black...

Team Willys said:

I like it! But I think the aluminum would look better black...

Click to expand...

x2. The white looks AWESOME though

Nice!

What did you use to create the engine turned look?

I don't understand your question. Engine turned look?

I think he means "how did you make all the pretty little circles on the aluminum"?... I'm guessing wire hat brush. Looks great man - are the gages operational, are you ready to go wheel and break something?

The tach still needs to get a 680ohm resistor wired in from a 12vdc fused power source and I'm hoping to get the new float assembly installed tomorrow, have to drop the tank and bore a hole in it in order to do that.

Decided to lose the hard fuel lines in favor of Braided stainless line with a Teflon liner. I picked those un today from Whistler bearing. Pics when finished.

No wheeling for me till I get a rear bumper finished....well maybe a test run up Eagle Rock......might even be this weekend but I'm not gonna make any promises.

The aluminum was prepped using a 2" Scotch-Brite Disc in my drill press and sprayed with some clear enamel.

In order to use the aftermarket fuel gauge a corresponding float and sender must be used as well. VDO includes a float/sender in their kits, at least they did in the one that I bought. The sender must have a rating of 10 ohms empty and 180 when full.

So here's how it's done:.

Step #1
Get your junk in the general vacinity of the gas tank.


Step #2
Obtain the appropriately sized "I Can't believe it's not Butter! container, 1.75" holesaw, and a drill.


Step #3
After confirming that there is no butter present in said recptacle, insert thusly into the gastank.


Step #4
Whilest holding the aforementioned container, proceed with using the holesaw to cutout the Rollover Valve.


Step #5
Upon completion of the boring operation, remove the container from the gastank. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN THE TANK!!!! You may need it for another project.


Step#6
Verify that you had the container positioned properly by confirming the presence of debris from the boring operation. DO NOT DUMP BACK INTO THE GAS TANK!! That would be silly.


Step #7
Disregard the piece of circular steel you fabricated prior to getting started on the tank in favor of a piece of aluminum from a different project. It looks better and won't rust from all the water in the cheap gas you buy.


Step #8
Using the gasket as a template, pilot drill the correct bolt pattern and bore out the center of the disc as well.


Step #9
Double check that you did a good job locating holes. If done correctly you may pat yourself on the back.


Step #10
Insert the float assembly into the tank with a liberal coating of Right Stuff Gasket maker to the float assy flange, the aluminum disc, and both sides of the gasket. Install the gasket through the pump assembly hole followed by the aluminum clamping flange (formerly known as the aluminum disc).
***NOTE***
You must fumble around for a minumum of 15 minutes before getting all 5 self-tapping screws started in the appropriate hole. If your hands, wrists and forearms are not stained with Gasket Maker....your doing it wrong.


Step #11
Make sure the float is in the correct location and moves freely.


Step # 12
Order another fuel pump assembly since you broke a nipple off the damn thing when you lowered the tank.

Hey Frank!

I have a 680 ohm resistor if you want it!

Dave

PM sent

Installed 2 new teflon lined braided steel fuel lines, new fuel pump, Fuel Composition Sensor (for running E85), new fuel filter, finished wiring the gauges and indicators.
Gauges are now 100% operational.
At night this....

Looks like this...

Nice!

Isn't it weird how the oil pressure runs low through the after market gauges? Mine is like that too.

When is it going to show more than 0.0 miles? Its a lot more fun to have when you drive it ;-)

Hopefully soon John.

I still need to:
Permanently mount the vapor cannister and purge valve.
Get a longer rear driveshaft.
Figure out why the damn tranny dipstick tube won't stop leaking at grommet, might have go with an aftermarket solution.
Build a rear bumper.

Frank Z said:

Figure out why the damn tranny dipstick tube won't stop leaking at grommet, might have go with an aftermarket solution.

Click to expand...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/TD-34L60EFM/10002/-1

No leaks on mine - I did RTV the chit out of it tho.

I can buy a metric sh*t-ton of RTV for $82!!!

Damn those are pricey.