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Upgrading to chromies on all 4 corners!

S

Senior_XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NY
I wanna upgrade all of my shafts so i figured id shoot off a few questions to those of you that are running similar setups....

I have a ford 8.8 in the rear with a solid diff cover, an ARB, & 31 splined shafts. NOW i can get the super 88 kit that has 4340 shafts and a cost around $500 bucks a set.
OR,, has anyone here ran the 1541-H shafts in there 8.8??? They are a bit cheaper but yet are still 30% stronger then stock.
Either option gives me a stock set of trail spairs which is nice.
SO any opinions or advice on this????????????

Now comes the HP d30 questions,,, yeah yeah,, i know the whole argument between how far a d30 can be pushed OR those that think there junk & throw em away for a HP 44!
Ive decided to push the 30 because its well built already & it only needs a set of chromies! SO its either a 27 splined set for around $500+ & i keep running my aussie. BUT if i buy the super 30 kit, i get the 30 splined chromos plus an ARB!! SO all i need past that is a truss and those red outter seals. I know the R&P is smaller in size to the 44 but with good use of the ARB and a lighter right foot,, it should survive most of my trail runs!! SO i wanna hear from anyone on this board that has run the super 30 kit and can tell me first hand how well it holds up to the rocks!!!!!

OH, and its a 95 XJ with 6.5" of lift & im rollin on a brand new set of 35" baja claws & Tomwoods shafts F&R that are turning 4.88's!!!
 
Leave the 8.8 alone. Carry some stock spares, but you probably will never use them.

Wheel the 30 for a while with stock shafts. I broke the ring gear on my HP30 with stock shafts, so you don't want chromos in there with an open carrier it's too weak. You can grind out the stock shafts for full circle snap rings if you start blowing joints and want to push your luck more.

Either way if I could go back in time and keep the 30, I'd cryo treat the gears, truss it, and run a full-case locker.
 
Many people have wheeled really hard with a D30 up to 35" tires. Unless you plan to go to 37's, which is overkill for a daily driven XJ that doesn't do a steady diet of hard rock trails without caring about body damage. Most of the guys who've been doing this a long time wheeled the crap out of their built D30 before stepping up to a larger axle......if they ever did. I disagree with the above poster recommending sticking with the stock shafts. That's exactly the weak point you're trying to eliminate.

It's tough to recommend to someone whether they should go with chromo 27 spline or 30 spline shafts. Many have had success with both. How much money do you have available to spend and how much peace of mind are you willing to pay for? Do you have money in your budget for chromo axle joints? I'd go with 27 spline shafts and good axle joints before I'd go with 30 spline shafts and stock axle joints. With 27 spline chromo axles you MIGHT break an axle, and you might break a ring and pinion. With 30 spline axles you won't break an axle and you might break a ring and pinion. Depending on your driving style, and how aware you are of getting the front in a bind, you could wheel either combination indefinitly with no problems at all.

If you have the money, since you already have a locker in the rear, I'd probably go with the 1541 shafts and keep the stock shafts for spares. It's debatable that you need to do anything, but if you're like me, I hate breaking on the trail and I'd prefer to spend a reasonable amount on upgrades to better insure it's not likely. Again, how much peace of mind can you afford to buy? Doesn't the Super 88 come with 33 spline shafts and a different locker? I don't remember for sure, maybe that's the Super 44. If the Super 88 is 31 spline, then it's just a matter of the price difference between the two, and what it's worth to you.
 
Goatman said:
Doesn't the Super 88 come with 33 spline shafts and a different locker? I don't remember for sure, maybe that's the Super 44. If the Super 88 is 31 spline, then it's just a matter of the price difference between the two, and what it's worth to you.
Click to expand...

I believe that is the Super 44 kit that comes with 33 spline. I don't think there are spline count upgrades for the 8.8?

ARB also makes a 35 spline case for the D44 but you'll need custom shafts I think? Again someone can correct me on this, I know the 35 spline ARB exists just not sure about the shafts needed.

Point well made Goatman, I'm sure you have more experience than me. This was just my experience with the same setup as the OP (4.88s, stock carrier, 35s, same terrain).
 
Goatman said:
Many people have wheeled really hard with a D30 up to 35" tires. Unless you plan to go to 37's, which is overkill for a daily driven XJ that doesn't do a steady diet of hard rock trails without caring about body damage. Most of the guys who've been doing this a long time wheeled the crap out of their built D30 before stepping up to a larger axle......if they ever did. I disagree with the above poster recommending sticking with the stock shafts. That's exactly the weak point you're trying to eliminate.

It's tough to recommend to someone whether they should go with chromo 27 spline or 30 spline shafts. Many have had success with both. How much money do you have available to spend and how much peace of mind are you willing to pay for? Do you have money in your budget for chromo axle joints? I'd go with 27 spline shafts and good axle joints before I'd go with 30 spline shafts and stock axle joints. With 27 spline chromo axles you MIGHT break an axle, and you might break a ring and pinion. With 30 spline axles you won't break an axle and you might break a ring and pinion. Depending on your driving style, and how aware you are of getting the front in a bind, you could wheel either combination indefinitly with no problems at all.

If you have the money, since you already have a locker in the rear, I'd probably go with the 1541 shafts and keep the stock shafts for spares. It's debatable that you need to do anything, but if you're like me, I hate breaking on the trail and I'd prefer to spend a reasonable amount on upgrades to better insure it's not likely. Again, how much peace of mind can you afford to buy? Doesn't the Super 88 come with 33 spline shafts and a different locker? I don't remember for sure, maybe that's the Super 44. If the Super 88 is 31 spline, then it's just a matter of the price difference between the two, and what it's worth to you.
Click to expand...


Either ur a mind reader or my long lost twin brother!! I think the same way!! I would pay more money for "peace of mind" then having to make that ULTIMATE trail decision on "should i take the hard line or the easier line" ???????? If i have the 30 splined/ARB, then i may go for the harder one and i may not break a thing,,, OR if i have the 27 splined/aussie locked option and i choose to take the easier line BUT i showboat a bit with more throttle and land up busting something on the easier line!!

Good reply,, thanks man!!
 
So is there anyone here that is running the super 30 kit????

Put it this way, my HP d30 has.............
I have an aussie,, BUT i want a selectable.
Running stock shafts,, BUT want chromos.
 
Senior_XJ said:
So is there anyone here that is running the super 30 kit????

Put it this way, my HP d30 has.............
I have an aussie,, BUT i want a selectable.
Running stock shafts,, BUT want chromos.
Click to expand...

Just a thought; keep the Aussie, get some 27 spline 1541 Superior's which come with good joints and truss it.
Put a 2 low kit the t-case.
Selectable is nice though.

-Boom
 
Well i may go this route,,,, 30 splined inners, 27 splined outters, 760 spicers FSC, and an aussie or lockrite that accepts the 30 splined shafts!!
This setup makes the center section the strongest point and moves the weak link to the ujoints and or the 27 splined shafts!
 
Senior_XJ said:
Well i may go this route,,,, 30 splined inners, 27 splined outters, 760 spicers FSC, and an aussie or lockrite that accepts the 30 splined shafts!!
This setup makes the center section the strongest point and moves the weak link to the ujoints and or the 27 splined shafts!
Click to expand...

1. No aussie or lockrite accepts 30 spline shafts. You need to buy an ARB (not sure if detroit makes one?)

2. My opinion is that your weaklink will now be either the joint or the R&P. My vote is on the R&P.

I couldn't break stock shafts or 760s (with full circle snap rings) with 4.88s, stock carrier, and a lockrite. It went straight to the ring gear.

3147_521967885430_41902041_31069650_3742012_n.jpg


IMO, I would get the R&P cryo'd and build a truss if you really want to keep the D30.
 
MoparManiac said:
1. No aussie or lockrite accepts 30 spline shafts. You need to buy an ARB (not sure if detroit makes one?)

2. My opinion is that your weaklink will now be either the joint or the R&P. My vote is on the R&P.

I couldn't break stock shafts or 760s (with full circle snap rings) with 4.88s, stock carrier, and a lockrite. It went straight to the ring gear.

3147_521967885430_41902041_31069650_3742012_n.jpg


IMO, I would get the R&P cryo'd and build a truss if you really want to keep the D30.
Click to expand...
me to... i bashed hard on my old lp30 with stock shafts and a lockrite on 35" claws. and it ate the 4.56s and spit up a bunch of teeth. only broken the joints. never really broken a stock shaft. just know the limits of the rig and try not to bounce it to much.
 
boomhauer said:
Just a thought; keep the Aussie, get some 27 spline 1541 Superior's which come with good joints and truss it.
Put a 2 low kit the t-case.
Selectable is nice though.

-Boom
Click to expand...


So there making 1541 shafts for the front axles now??? Any advantages over the 4340 or are they weaker??

Yeah i cant find a 30 splined lunchbox locker. What about any of the detroits?? Can i run a full case detroit on a daily driver??
 
My buddy was running an ARB with stock shafts and 32s, busted a shaft with the tire wedged up against a rock and the steering wheel cranked. He gave it a little gas to try to climb up and over, and the shaft went pop. Don't know which section went first, joint or shaft, but both the outer shaft and joint busted. I'd consider the super 30 w/ARB and upgrade the joints. That way, you can unlock in certain axle threatening situations.
 
Senior_XJ said:
Second,, if im gonna go that hardcore, then id run these in a well built 44!!
Click to expand...

Unless something has changed recently, Bobby Long doesn't offer those for D44s yet :rattle:
 
He doesn't AFAIK either.

The spindle hole in the D44 knuckles is too small.

I wonder if the Ford knuckle could be used? (bigger spindle hole right?)
 
ohhhh mann. I'm gonna ask him about that. :D :D :D evil thoughts brewing :D :D :D


...sorry for the slight hijack ;)
 
Im on 33s 4.56s and a Aussie locker, Im going up to 35s and debating the same thing. But hearing that the R&P is not that strong, Im thinking bout going to the junk yard and just pullen a extra set of stock shafts. I rather have the axle break then the R&P. How often would it happen compared to the cost of a Super 30 kit or a d44?
 
justin_502 said:
Im on 33s 4.56s and a Aussie locker, Im going up to 35s and debating the same thing. But hearing that the R&P is not that strong, Im thinking bout going to the junk yard and just pullen a extra set of stock shafts. I rather have the axle break then the R&P. How often would it happen compared to the cost of a Super 30 kit or a d44?
Click to expand...

My aussie snapps stock shafts like a tooth pic!!! And thats when i was on 33"s!!!
I may give chromos a try but id rather build a HP 44.
 
I have always just welded the u joints to the shafts. Makes it much stronger. But. Instead of breaking the ears off the shaft. You break the splines off the inner shaft. Heres where the issue comes in. And this is how it goes. Bind up one tire, break a shaft. Bind up 2 tires, break a ring and pinion. Same thing over and over. Every once and a while something cool happeneds like a broken carrier, cross shaft, maybe even a bearing and cap. You could upgrade the shafts, but don't bother going with 30 spline shafts.
 
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