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Clayton vs Rubicon Express

HeepSpeed

HeepSpeed

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
I'm looking at 4.5'' Long Arm kits for my 1997 XJ. The idea is to do it right the first time. I'm debating between the two following lifts as they seem to be the highest quality kits

Rubicon Express: http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Jeep/X...px?part=RE6130

Clayton: http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id=113

I really don't want to go bigger, because I'm not planning on rock crawling, but I DO want the benefits of flex offered by a long arm system. Yes, I know I'll have to do SYE and all that crap too...man, this'll cost $$$ yay for ramen.

anyways, it seems the major difference between the two is between

a) welding vs bolt on
b) $2,000 for RE kit (including shocks) vs $2,400 (including shocks) DOES NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING
c) some mixed reviews (RE) vs ONLY good reviews (Clayton)

What would YOU purchase? man, a lift alone is going to cost around $4K since I don't know how to weld (Clayton) and the RE would cost more too. Then there's the issue of bigger tires...this whole thing sounds fishy...
ban.gif
ha ha
 
I would go with Clayton myself. I don't have time to explain why right now... but thats who I would go with.
 
Thanks, keep in mind I'm still a n00b when it comes to modding the XJ. I can fix it stock, but the RE seems like it could be a kit I could do over a weekend or two at home, while the Clayton would have to be professionally done...
 
Just ask a shop to weld you up. I can't see it costing you more than a few bucks. That said, don't let anyone near the unibody with a stick!
You can drive with it bolted up just fine, then get it welded after. Clayton is good stuff!
 
Also, keep in mind that once you get into it a little more you'll end up swapping parts out for parts you learn about anyway. So, buying a kit with "everything" included isn't always the best way to go. Just do a little research on different parts (springs, shocks, arms, shackles...) and put it together the way you like. There are some great deals to be had in the forsale sections.

I run:
Clayton arms
Custom track bar
RE leaf springs
Rustys coil springs
RE Boomerang shackles
...
You get the idea. Each has it's purpose, or at least I thought so at the time LOL.
 
Last edited:
TNT Customs... Sorry don't care for RE's because of the lack of a comprehensive belly pan, and I have other issues with Clayton...
 
Justpunchit said:
TNT Customs... Sorry don't care for RE's because of the lack of a comprehensive belly pan, and I have other issues with Clayton...
Click to expand...

What issues?


TNT is nice but I've found the belly pan to be more trouble than it's worth. If you go with Clayton there are a few skids that will mount right up, or you can fab a DPG skid to work.
 
Rubicon Express 5.5 Long arm, three years and zero issues. Great lift and more reasonable to than the others these days..
 
Go Clayton, bolt up the crossmember, drive to a shop to weld it up, the go home and install the arms, it has to be the easiest LA kit to install
 
Working at a shop that does 4wd stuff I have installed both kits and I recommend the Clayton's kit to everyone and that is what I run on my MJ.
The RE kit is great if you like laying on your back and drilling holes all weekend. If I remember right there is something like 30 holes that have to be drilled..

I have had the Clayton's kit on my MJ for 5 Years now and my Boss (avanteone) had it on both his XJ's for something like 9 Years.

Like two of guys said before you can bolt up the Clayton's cross-member and drive it to a shop that can do welding, we charge an Hour to weld up the cross-member. Make sure the shop can weld good to its a pain in the A$$ to weld to the sheet metal on a XJ.

My .02
Jason
 
if I had the money and didn't plan on doing extreme rocks, I'd go for the Clayton arm/skid setup. I don't know about their springs, I'd probably go with RE springs and Bilstein 5125 or 5150 shocks. Clayton is just crazy strong, you can't hurt their arms. The only downside is that they mount the arms below the frame rails. I could have gotten a crazy deal on Clayton stuff, but went with the TNT Y-Link instead for the high clearance bellypan and arms since I do rocks.
 
RE nuff said. they have a stout belly pan. and if you have to do a tcase/tranny swap you dont have to remove your arms. you can leave it all in place. where as the tnt one you have to take everything off. the clayton is the same as the RE
 
I play in the rocks and haven't had an issue with the Clayton's hanging down. The Problem with the RE kit is once you hit the belly pan hard on a rock it will bend and then when you have to pull it it will be sprung and a pain in the A$$ to put back on just ask me how I know.
 
I do rocks and clayton holds up great. I guess there are two ways to look at it. High clearance and don't worry much about hitting anything. Clayton arms, bashem off rocks and slide down like skids and don't worry, much.
 
I got the Clayton full LA kit (6.5") and couldn't be happier. Their customer service is outstanding and the products are bullet proof. The welding is NOTHING. Dont let that be your determining factor.

Going long arm (doing it right) is expensive, no matter which kit you go with. Especially when you factor in SYE, drive shafts, tires/wheels, shocks. etc. Ive got 5K in mine, but I honestly wouldn't do it any differently, Clayton's has been great!

Either way, I think you will be happy.

~James
 
what about getting the 4.5 short arm kit to save money and get the SYE and other things at the same time...THEN, when I really need LA's - easily upgrade.

Is it hard to just upgrade? Then I could save $500 right off the bat to put towards required items for the lift..
 
a 5" short-arm lift is gonna ride pretty firmly, regardless of what shocks you use. (my 6.5" longarm rides smoother than my 4" shortarm!) If you can lift with a "firm" ride... sure... installing the longarm components isn't very difficult. But you won't be able to sell the arms for anywhere near what you'll pay for them. So you're going to lose at least $200 when you sell the short arms.

If your end goal is a longarm kit instead of drop brackets then I really suggest waiting until you can afford to do it all at once.
 
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