That's basically what I did.
Works pretty well from a functional standpoint, and the steering ram is well protected, but I'm on tie rod #3. 1.5 x .25 DOM on all of 'em.
Being a Dodge axle mine came from the factory with the tie rod over the knuckle. Not sure what you'd have to do to convert yours, although I'd check the clearance to the diff cover at full lock as I know the stock tie rod has a bend to clear it. I think the Ford tie rod holes are a little closer to the kingpins than the chevy/dodge knuckles.
With the guys I wheel with, we've had 4 stock Ford knuckles break. All had some sort of hi-steer arrangement. No failures with chevy/dodge knuckles yet.
Where the ones that broke full hydro? Hopefully someone can give me some advise on how to procede with the reaming of my arms. If I have to I'll run it like it is but that would mean redoing the hydro assist later with the newer knuckles. If I can get this to work as is that would mean only one knuckle hopefully.
) then the pass side high steer arm needs two holes, the inside hole for the drag link and the outside hole for the tie rod. Or, run the inverted T with all TRE's and live with the dead spot and the possibility of bending the long pass side TRE.
For the steering, if you must use TRE's (I tried, I hated it
Or, just do rod ends and make it a simple inverted Y. Do like RCman is doing and use 7/8" rod ends rather than the normal 3/4" and it should be mega durable and very positive. This makes the steering tighter to the axle and less bent tie rods. We've learned (the hard way) that it's as important to keep the tie rod as close to the axle as it is to keep it high, to avoid getting it bent. If you drill your own hole in the steering arm, you can turn how tight your steering is.
