Taps are way to expensive to invest in for factory size threads.Why would you even consider it?I am going to machine a new tie rod for my XJ that is made out of beefier material, but I need to know the thread sizes of the tie rod ends. Anyone know what these are?
I also stress tested it in a program that I have and the hex is stronger than round material in the factor that the way when a rock hits it the stess is distributed against a minimum of 2 surfaces instead of a rounded face.
Sounds good. Ill take some.....Im going to get 1.25" thick hex molybodenum soild and since Im a machinist it is 0 factor for me to make left hand and right hand threads without a tap especially with tap drill hole bigger than 1/2".
The tie rod will only cost me $40 in material and $0 for any additional items.
Thank you for the information on the thread size xjjeepthing.
I also stress tested it in a program that I have and the hex is stronger than round material in the factor that the way when a rock hits it the stess is distributed against a minimum of 2 surfaces instead of a rounded face.
Ya, but you don't want it stronger than the knuckle. I would rather bend a tie rod than break a knuckle.Yes, for matters in pure bending, two solid planes are better than a rounded surface, as you have a greater surface area to yield. But, you aren't always going to have that surface facing/coming into contact with the rocks/obstacles. I haven't run the numbers,and I'm not going to, but I'd trust the uniform shape of the round stock vs a corner of that hex. Either way, it should be plenty.
agreed.I have yet to see a broken knuckle. The tie rod end would break first.