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Painting a brand bew bumper

1m4j2t

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver
I've got Rigidco bumpers and rails. The front was delivered yesterday,and I'm itching to put it on. I'm gathering suggestions on paint for it. One very knowledgeable friend suggested Chassis Saver. It's $100/gal, and I can't find it in Denver, so I have to mail order it. I did find some encapsulating paint called Hammerite the does the same thing, but for less $$$. Does anyone have experience with it, or further suggestions?

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m4j2t


m4j2t
 
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rustoleum.

can always have a can rolling around somewhere for touchups. Works great too. Powder coat will rub off and look like trash the more you wack your bumper against rocks and stuff.
 
Clean it with some "Total Prep" and use a light coat of Rustoleum primer and then some Rustoleum "Hammered" (tough paint!).

I can't see spending the coin to powder coat something that "should" get scratched up if you are using it for what its intended for.

You can always touch up paint.
 
Find out where your local farmers get their tractor paint!

Tractor and implement paint is the best bumper paint I have ever used. I get mine from a local machine shop.
it goes on thick, has an awesome shine, and comes in a lot of basic colors. like gray, black silver, green, red etc...
best paint for the money hands down!

And btw its harder to get off than powder coat because its flexible....
 
I use Hammerite alot, it takes some practice to get a really good finish, but the stuff is good. I've also had good luck with there aluminum, chrome and stainless (non ferrous) primer on bare steel and there flat water based coatings. The flat coatings are easier to touch up if need be and easier to apply. My tow hooks were painted five years ago, Hammerite primer and flat black water based paint, they still look good.
If you brush it on, don't over brush it, try to lay it on in one smooth coat (medium thick), don't overwork it. It takes some pratice to get a nice thick coat that doesn't run or sag, technique is required. The brush marks will largely disappear as it dries. I've had good results with natural fiber brushes, hair is too soft and many synthetics are too hard.
The spray works well, but doesn't leave that thick typical tried and proved Hammerite coating a brush does.
It can take awhile for it to fully cure, like weeks.
I've also had good luck with Rustolium rusty metal primer (let it dry for a few days) and Rustolium outdoor grill spray paint. It's kind of a half mat or semi gloss that looks good and is surely durable. I did the grill on my 88 about 7 years ago, still looks good. The rusty metal primer is hard to sand, but sticks really well.
 
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Find out where your local farmers get their tractor paint!

Tractor and implement paint is the best bumper paint I have ever used. I get mine from a local machine shop.
it goes on thick, has an awesome shine, and comes in a lot of basic colors. like gray, black silver, green, red etc...
best paint for the money hands down!

napa or schucks has it as well (at least here in WA)
 
Clean it with some "Total Prep" and use a light coat of Rustoleum primer and then some Rustoleum "Hammered" (tough paint!).

I can't see spending the coin to powder coat something that "should" get scratched up if you are using it for what its intended for.

You can always touch up paint.

X2 on the Rustoleum Hammered! I used it on my old grill guard and also on the lower quater of my doors and rockers and it has held up very well to the abuse!
 
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As said before clean the metal well before(Lacquer thinner works REALLY well), and prime it, but the best primer for bare metal is an acid or self etching primmer, Rustolium makes it too(Olive drab-ish colored).
 
Rustoleum auto primer then some textured black. Need about 3 coats and youll be good to go.

Its a little gritty and doesnt show streaks from a crappy spray can. Ive got it all over my XJ and touched up my custom bumper on my Bronco with it and it holds just as good.


Definately prep it good. Looks like most of the hot roll scaley stuff is gone so it should be alright.
 
I've got Rigidco bumpers and rails. The front was delivered yesterday,and I'm itching to put it on. I'm gathering suggestions on paint for it. One very knowledgeable friend suggested Chassis Saver. It's $100/gal, and I can't find it in Denver, so I have to mail order it. I did find some encapsulating paint called Hammerite the does the same thing, but for less $$$. Does anyone have experience with it, or further suggestions?

I have the same bumpers. I cleaned them with Metal-Ready and put on 2 coats of POR-15. Applying the second "base coat" while it was still slightly tacky. I then top coated the tacky second coat of POR-15 with Rustoleum Satin finish outdoor furniture paint. After that dried for an hour, I added a second coat of Rusto. Had it on for 2 winters salt/ice in Mich.) now with no/minimal rust. Easy to touch up due to the topcoat of rusto also.

My dad used chassis saver on his 64' vette restoration on the whole frame, looks great but he only drives it in the summer so obviously there is no rust so I can't tell how well it really prevents corrosion/rust from salt/winter.

If you don't mind a gloss finish just use POR-15 hardcote which dries like a powdercoat and it's chip/scrath resistant....it's made for heavy machinery like tractors, plow blades, etc and it's UV stable.

I would have used it but I don't like gloss finish.
 
I have the same bumper (minus the hoop). I gave it 2 coats of primer then 3 coats of Rustoleum Hammered paint black . I would not do this again or recommend it to anyone. If you drive on the road a lot as i do you will get all kinds of paint chips from rocks and bugs. I am serious about the bugs;really. I have had to touch it up numerous times thus far.

I am going to take the entire thing off here soon and redo it with U Pol raptor. It is a spray on bed liner material like herculiner.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=460435

Link to a guys TJ tub he did.

It gets a much better texture than herculiner since it is sprayed on.

I love the bumper though it is really an amazing piece of armor.
 
rustoleum.
x2. Prime it well, and Rustoleum it. You get to pick the color you want, but good ol' Flat Black is readily available. I keep puttng it off, but mine's about to get the same treatment. With the Mag Chloride and sand on the roads in the winter, it doesn't take long for rust to form under a powder-coated surface.

Off-topic - I didn't realize we had a Gold Star plate in Colorado. :salute:

Jim www.yuccaman.com
 
I would like to do a bed-liner type of application. I like the way it looks and it should be durable. My main concern doing something like that is touch up. This thing is going to get scratched. I imagine even a bed liner type material will come off when scraped against rock. Can you just touch up that stuff?

Right now I have some of the Hammerite in flat black. I think I'm going to put on a couple coats on. It'll be durable ane easy to touch up. If I don't like the finish I'll top-coat it with something easily found in a rattle can, but I'm not really the glossy-bumper type.
 
i dunno if theres a differance between hamerite that comes in an aerosol can, and the stuff thats applied by brush, but the stuff in the can isnt strong AT ALL, even with multiple coats and a clean prep job.
 
Crap...Really? I have the spray on type. I wish I would been on top of this during the two months I waited for these parts to show. I really want to get them on, but I want to make the right choice in coating. Thanks all who've contributed so far.:cheers:
 
To get the best adhesion, I went ahead and invested $15 on a harbour freight gravity feed sandblaster. Another $30 on a HUGE tub of 80 grit media, and went to town. It's amazing how much stuff still comes off the "clean" metal... I know the gun will have so many other uses down the road too, definitely worth it.
 
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